San Cristobal de la Casas

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Well I left Nicola in Palenque, so coming to San Cristobal a couple of days ago was my first solo travelling since being in Mexico. Upon arrival at the hostel I joined in on a slasa class, which is my third since being in mexico, so definitely improving. I hope to do a few more as I continue to get to some sort of a standard.

San Cristobal is very colonial and reminded me of the north India town of Shimla. Although here it has Spanish influences. It is very beautiful, and very cosmopolitan with lots of international style cafes and restuarnats, and fantastic coffee. I could spend a while here. It is also filled wit toursists and so have met a lot of very itneresting people over the past few days.

Yesterday I went with some peolple I met form the hostel to the village/compund of the Zapatistas, the political movement of the indigenous mayan people. They have been fighting for recognition from the government and to get the rights they feel they deserve. It was a very interesting experience. We got to the entrance of the gated complex and handed over our passports to a masked women. the masks and balaclavas are what they are famously recognised for. We were then led to a room of three amsked men, and ased a series of questions about our intentions, names, where we were from, professions etc. It was a bit unnervning, and I was very greatful that one of us was fluent in Spanish. Althouh now they are peaceful, and now longer use weapons, they have been violent in the past and we were very much aware that we were in their village.

We were then escorted to another room where we were furhter interviewed and after finally proving that we were not connected to the government, or any rival villages, we were given a talk on what they were about: their aims, history, achievements, set backs and fears. It was very humbling to be in their presence, as it made one aware of how lucky we were for the rights we had in our own countries.

The village was impressive in itself, as they had their own, schools, clinic and various general buildings, all created without the help from the government and by using the money they generate through two coffee copoperatives they own. Most walls were covered in murials shoing the hsitory of the Zapatistas and their movement, and we were beautiful. I unfortunately did not have my camera, but friends are going to send me the photos. We were not allowed to take photos of the people, except the three masked officials who spoke to us, or the cars with their licience plates.

We all left the village very quiet, not quite believing that we had been given the privilage to visit them and here what the Zapatistas had to say.

Today I was once again very lucky, I got to go horse riding in the nearby hills to a village for free. A guy at the hostel fell sick and couldn't go, so I went instead as he couldn't get a refund and didn't want the place wasted. The ride was fun, and as it was a beautiful sunny day, it was really lovely. Except that my horse as badly misbehaving most of the way, and I am now as a result covered in stratches from the thorn bushes and trees she insisted on riding me into. But the view was still stunning, and the forest still tranquil and lovely.

We visited the village of San Juan Chamula and went into the church to observe the odd ritual worshipping. It was a strange mix of Catholism and Mayan tradition. So while the church was typical of a catholic church in Mexico, complete with ornate statues of saints, a huge crucifix and icons, it also had a floor covered in pine needles, and little groups of worshippers with their endless rows of candles, chickens and fizzy drinks. Families would set up rows of candles, light them and then chant. At some point they kill the chickens they bring with them and drink the fizzy drinks in order to burp. The burping is supposed to remove the evil spirits from them.

It was very surreal, and very warm with the candles. I felt quite awkward walking around staring at people participating in what must be a very intimate act of worship.

Tonight I am going to go to the cinema to see a viewing of a documentary of the Zapatistas.

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Comments

[Alexandra]

Speechless
Wow! Your last 4 blogs left me speechless. What a fantastic journey and what fantastic places you are going to and things that you are doing. I think that I am truly envious in a way but I am so pleased for you. This is something to remember for a long time, especially with your photos. Pity you haven't been able to upload them. Keep on blogging so that we can share in your experiences - thank you for writing them. Love from me