The Dempster Highway is a sort of potholed gravel track that starts just south of Dawson City and ends up in Inuvik in the Northwest territories, crossing the Arctic Circle on the way. It is built on permafrost, and when the road heats up the permafrost melts and the whole road sinks and becomes a small lake. It kills cars. The highway is constantly being reworked, and nowadays is built up on a large mound of gravel to preserve the permafrost (and therefore the track). I managed to get a lift (along with Keira - one of the other WWOOFers at the farm - and a guy called Brandon) up to Inuvik, on a fuel-price-sharing basis. The first day's travel - to Eagle Plains - was pretty hairy since the weather was bad and it rained
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