Tidal Rapids Make Shoal Bay a Secret

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06.04.18 Tidal Rapids Make Shoal Bay a Secret



We spy a few boats near to remembered fishing holes while cruising through Thulin Passage the on the way towards Desolation Sound and we reminisce about the delicious ling cod caught a few years back while we dallied in the Copeland Islands.



NW boaters know all about Desolation Sound. It’s the go-to destination for anyone with enough time to go north of the San Juan Islands. Half way between the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Queen Charlotte Strait, ocean waters tend to meet in the middle and stay there. Tides still bring fresh seafood twice daily but boaters who find shallow bays and not so secret coves often find water temperatures above 19˚C (68˚F).



To get north every boater must choose to either stay all the way “inside” and go through a series of tidal rapids or cruise the big waters of the Johnston Strait, a long north west stretch that runs along Vancouver Island’s eastside. Never one for the straight path, we usually opt for tidal rapids, hurrying to arrive in time for slack, usually having to wait because we’re too early, then easily making the passage through them enjoying wildlife viewing all the way.



It's not a secret but Yaculta Rapids is easy at high slack, but don't show up early or it will take twice as long to get through but the passage offers beauty of all kinds even without the help of way-finding signage.



Besides fresh caught prawns and crab, we have been eating Tetsukabuto Squash, a long lasting hearty blue colored squash from Dancin’ Roots Farm that we selected at the Friends of Family Farmers Fill Your Pantry event in December 2017. What a filler! Delicious (and no doubt nutritious), it’s a dense, flavorful, deep yellow squash that has enlivened our pastas, quesadillas, soups and salads onboard Ama. We steamed about half so its ready to use and vacuum sealed remaining half – it looks like it will last our full journey!



We arrive to Shoal Bay in the rain but skies quickly cleared so we toured the whole compound, harvesting fresh herbs, kale and spinach from their fabulous garden, visiting with Tulip and make the requisite visit down bullshit road. Mark, the consummate host served us fresh Pale Ale on tap while entertaining us with fishing stories and boating disasters. Peter got a chance to play with a fellow boater before shoving off.

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