I (Katherine is writing today) embarked on the ferry to Skidegate with a combination of excitement and trepidation. Excitement because it is a long ferry ride (compared to most I take, anyway), much of which is over open water. I expected some bouncing, and I always look forward to that. Trepidation because it really felt to me like we were heading to the back of beyond. What if we had car trouble? With an 18-year-old non-mainstream vehicle, it could be both inconvenient and expensive. And the Bentley manual (the mechanic’s guide to working on the vanagon) I had ordered before we left North Vancouver didn’t arrive before our departure, so I would have to rely on mechanics who knew nothing about my vehicle, and had no reference to consult. And what if one of us got
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