Blogs from Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia, Canada, North America

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Had breakfast in the Island Restaurant and again the food was very good. Good array of fresh fruit is always available. Kids have both made friends at Fun Factory so dumped us again and went to play. We did what you do on cruise ships and just wandered the top deck. Further off shore now but spectacular views down the coast line and still tracking north on the Canada or BC coast. Sea very flat and clear blue skies, just a little breezey when out of shelter. There is a bar or lounge at the front of the ship that offers a stunning 180 degree view ahead and alongside with comfortable armchairs that just make it difficult to move on. Collected the kids for lunch and they came back to read with us at the front ... read more
Soaking it all up..
The wake behind...
Seemed pretty amazing at the time...


Thursday September 8, 2011 Rennell Sound I went to bed super late; in fact I wouldn’t even look at my watch because I knew it was that late. That’s what happens when you put me in front of a TV after a few months of no TV. I had thought about staying another day (at the hostel) but the weather looked like it was improving and I got a fair bit accomplished last night (laundry & most of the blogs). I got a bit of a later start this morning but it was only 40 km’s to Rennell Sound; how bad could things get? The gravel road was in much worse shape than I had hoped for. I don’t want to say it was the worst I had ridden on; but maybe it was. The road ... read more
Queen Charlotte City
Logging Truck
Rennell Sound


Monday September 5, 2011 Tow Hill I went to bed quite late and naturally slept in quite late. The skies were very overcast and much cooler then yesterday morning. There was a light mist in the air. I had set my tarp up and it was a good thing to do; my tent was nice and dry. I took a walk down the beach to the campground at the end of the road (that lead onto the beach) to look for an outhouse. I had planned to bike and hike to the very tip of the island (Rose Spit). But because of the overcast skies I lost any motivation and became more interested in moving on. Taking down camp seemed to drag out forever having a companion at camp. Too much talking. After I was packed ... read more
North Beach
Growing Off the Trees it Looks Like Leaf Lettuce
Growing Off the Trees it Looks Like Leaf Lettuce


Saturday September 3, 2011 Queen Charlotte Islands It rained last night, surprise, surprise. I am sure thankful for the covered shelter. Very overcast this morning. I was told that there is a family from South Africa that moved to Prince Rupert because they have a rare skin condition. This skin condition is somehow agitated by the sun. They moved to Prince Rupert because all of their research indicated that Prince Rupert was the one city in the world that received the least amount of sun in the entire world per year. I don’t know if this is true or not but they do have a store in town called “Slickers” that sells exclusively raingear. I bought a tarp there this morning. Either I will get all sun from now on and it will be a waste ... read more
From The Ferry
Prince Rupert From The Ferry
Prince Rupert From the Ferry


I have been to the end of the world and returned to tell the tale. Haida Gwaii, formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, does certainly feel like it is at the end of the world, where there is nothing left west of the islands. It is remote, quiet and takes an effort to get there, indeed, Haida Gwaii is a purposeful destination, not somewhere you pass through on the way to somewhere else. It is the end. And in the geologic sense, the Haida Gwaii archipelago is on the very edge of the North American continental shelf, as the abyss of the Pacific basin is only a few kilometers offshore. The last ice age passed by much of the islands, and this means that some species evolved with unique characteristics. The first Haida peoples arrived ... read more
Bareskin Bay
Skedans Totem Poles
Salmon Fishing


Welcome to the Pacific Northwest, the heart of the temperate rainforest. It is a thin strip of islands and fiords hemmed in by the Coast Mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, taking its shape from jagged rocks that were pushed up from the ocean floor eons ago. If this wasn't enough of a primoridal and wild place, I am in the remote islands of Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands), which lie on the extremity of the extreme; a fang-shaped archipelago on the edge of the continental shelf, a day's sail west of British Columbia and just south of the Alaskan panhandle. This archipelago is made up of 2 main islands (Graham to the north, Moresby to the south) and approximately 150 other smaller islands shrewn about them, with a ... read more
The Desolate North Coast
The Pesuta Shipwreck
Jungle Beach


The ground bends and distorts underfoot as I gingerly make my way through the rainforest, carefully finding my footing on a forest floor covered with a carpet of brilliant green moss and jumbled, rotting wood. Each step is a carefully calculated hop or tip-toe across catwalks of fallen trees and branches, each log lying on the remnants of older logs and coated with ferns and saplings. After just a few minutes of stumbling around in this slippery and dripping-wet maze, I realize why 4 out of 5 Queen Charlotte Islands' residents prefer to wear gumboots, even on a sunny day. I pause for a moment to take in my surroundings. I am merely a few metres from the edge of the logging road, but once I enter the refuge of the woods the silence becomes deafening. ... read more
Fly Agaric (immature)
The Woods of Tlell
Ralphie in the ditch


Priorities (prahy-awr-i-tees) highest or higher in importance, rank, privilege. So here we are in the Queen Charlotte Islands. Where do we begin to describe this beautiful, tranquil island, these amazing communities and the kind and genuine people? I will try, but it really won't be the same as being here and experiencing it for yourselves. The Queen Charlotte Islands are about 300 km long, in a rough triangular shape from 100 km wide across the top, tapering to a point at Cape St. James at the south end. Tucked under the coastline of islands that form the Alaska panhandle they are 75 km from the American border, approximately 120 km west of the outer islands of the northern BC coastline. The Islands have just had a name change. In honor of the Haida First Nations People ... read more
Rainbow Gallery
Heritage Centre in Skidegate
Haida canoe


Several years ago some of my co-workers and I visited Gray Bay, a beautiful beach south of Sandspit on Moresby Island, Queen Charlotte Islands. This octopus was in a tidepool in some rocks, which was draining and soon would be dry as the water receded. We followed him? her? sliding from the tidepool to the each and into the sea - he or she moved almost at a walking pace over a uprising distance. One of the crew's dogs got a little too curious and almost recieved a snoutfull of ink and seawater. Grey Bay is an excellent campground choice for visitors to the Queen Charlotte Islands. In the summer it is comparable to Tofino's Long Beach, without a dangerous surf and no crowds. Services are available at Sandspit, including car rentals and fuel (check ... read more
Gray Bay Octopus
Gray Bay Octopus
Gray Bay Octopus


Our only full day in the Charlottes was Sunday, July 10. We got up relatively early, and took the short walk to the beach before breakfast. It’s a beautiful, long, sand beach, with some pebbles, and utterly deserted. We then breakfasted in the camper, before heading north towards Masset. Along this perhaps 50 km trip, we must have seen at least 100 deer browsing along the roadside. Shortly after setting out on the road, around 10 am, we encountered a pickup truck badly stuck in the right ditch, but heading in our direction. A couple of other vehicles were also stopped but we also pulled over to see if we could be of any assistance. The truck was in pretty bad shape, but there was a young couple on and in it, who were obviously the ... read more
Our campsite at Misty Meadows
The beach at Misty Meadows
The view in the other direction




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