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Published: September 23rd 2009
More vast open countryside with spectacular views round every corner. Another 4 days has passed and we've covered another 1026 spectacular miles - though it would be nice to see a tree without pine needles. Actually that's not really fair as we do go past the occasional stand of aspens in amongst the pine trees. We are still in the land of scenic viewpoints surrounded by trees but it doesn't matter as there is so little traffic on the road you can just pull up and take a photo. All the towns are small one horse places but the locals love it when you stop and they have someone new to chat to. Plus they all have small museums when you can catch up on the local history and culture. The rivers are all enormous and are spanned by bridges that seem to be made of Kennedy Grating - that's fun on a motorbike with the back wheel wobbling around.
We whisk though The Yukon (state slogan “Larger Than Life”) passing through Beaver Creek - Burwash Landing - Haines Junction - Whitehorse - Johnson's Crossing - Teslin - Nugget City - Watson Lake Signpost Forest in a mere 3 days.
For the first few days its still very smoky and there are just tantalising glimpses of the mountains. Then as we cross the bridge at Teslin there is a dramatic change, the smoke all clears and we have clear blue skies. There are loads of interpretive boards by the roadside telling you all about the countryside, history and indigenous people so progress is very slow and most days we are the last to arrive an hour or so after everyone else (hence the reason of this blog being so behind).
On one side trip to view a lake down a muddy track the Yukon got the better of us and we had our first tumble. Though calling it a tumble is a bit dramatic. Basically we came to a stand still in some mud going uphill and a voice came over the intercom saying 'we're going down', next thing we gracefully tipped over sideways and rolled through the mud. Luckily there was no damage to us or the bike.
The next day its over the border into British Colombia (state slogan:“The Best Place on Earth”) and along the Stewart-Cassiar Highway. At the end of each day you think
the forest fire is burning on teh other side of the lake - hence all the smoke
the scenery has been the best so far and that it cant get any better. However the Stewart-Cassiar Highway surpassed all expectations and round every bend the scenery just got better and better. First there were lots of roadside lakes all a lovely deep blue colour and looking very inviting, we eventually gave in and went for a dip to cool off. Then the mountains got closer and closer and we had glimpses of snowy peaks behind. Finally we were in amongst the snowy peaks with more and more waterfalls and glaciers clinging to the mountain tops. Then the finale; the Bear Glacier tumbling down the mountain and into the lake. Luckily Jeff the Van Man caught up with us at this point so he put the kettle on and we settled down to have a civilised cup of tea while taking in the view.
Finally we rolled into Stewart, a small town of endearing wooden houses and our home for the next few days.
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