Cortese Island, the fabled isle

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I’m here for a couple of month’s so here’s a bit about the place before I get to people and creatures:



A short story about Cortes: Mapped by Spanish Capt. Quadra in the late 1700’s, he named Cortes after the infamous conquistador of Mexico. In the 1800’s it became a whaling and fishing centre (hence Whaletown). First half of the 1900’s, there was some residential farming and logging. By the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s Cortes had become a sparsely populated hippie community. Dave Barrett’s NDP gov’t. forced the ‘Hippies’ to come an agreement on development, specifically a “Settlement Plan” which specified a minimum lot size of 10 acres (x- grandfathering and Crown Lands); this 10 acre minimum lot size, together with lots of town meeting “booing, hissing and screaming” drove potential big-money real estate developers off Cortes. By the late 90’s, its location, pristine nature and land management politics attracted the environmentally oriented “Rich People”, who have since been developing private residences on Cortes and now run most of the self-governing committees (with implied help of their city lawyers and money); it also attracted branch docks/lodges from both the Royal Vancouver and Seattle Yacht Clubs; also the Hollyhock “Educational Resort”…..thereby all creating some “real” employment for maturing “hippies”. Aahhh…the “fabled Isle” has been saved from excess pillaging.
The climate is temperate and mild. Unlike the rest of the Pacific BC coast, Cortes doesn’t get much rain because it’s in the rain shadow of the Vancouver Island mountains; and the seawater is a lot calmer for the same reason. To-date in May we’ve had no rain, just some light spitting


In summer the population quintuples from 1000 to 5000; the primary access is by boats ; access by car is restrained because of the 3 ferry crossings required from Vancouver; those that do make it across by car head mostly for the Provincial Parks, the coves by kayak and a maze of trails through undisturbed forest and along beaches and shorelines
The larger summer population is ‘yachties’; hundreds of boats (60% motor, 40%sail) head up Puget Sound from Vancouver and Seattle to the Discovery Islands (primarily Cortese) for the summer; there’ a daily scheduled float plane service into Cortese Bay from Seattle. The government maintains 5 large public docks and wharves and the population and facilities centre around serving these summer vacationers; 2 “carry-all” food stores, organic food Co-op, 3 restaurants, book store, medical clinic, arty boutiques, 2 marine/auto gas pumps, and a reknown community gathering centre, the Cortes Recycling Centre (complete with the Free Store and Art Gallery).
The final attraction is the Hollyhock Lifelong Learning Centre and Spa, a “Convergent Harmony” centre; it draws the footloose and fancy free from around the globe, seeking enlightenment, discovery and affirmation of their lifestyles.


So much for Cortes.

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Comments

[Jan Furness]

Caught the bug
Hi Peter, you havent caught the travel bug by any chance? Delighted to hear if you have - wonderful experiences to be had along the way. This island looks rather lovely - so different from Toronto. Geoff and I are off to France on Friday for 3 months - can't wait to have what is almost an extended summer. We now have a boat, to go with our bikes - no car! All good fun and trying to make the most of it. Enjoy your time out West. Best wishes, Jan and Geoff

[Sofie Kaegi]

Beautiful and enlightening account, Dad. Gorgeous photos too! You're becoming a full-fledged travel writer! ;) Sofie xoxo