Cardboard Cutout Bears?

---

Today we head south to the Waterton Lakes National Park in search of the elusive Blakiston Falls. Readers of entries from our 2019 trip might remember that we tried to get to the Falls then, but there were still trees down across the road from the massive 2017 wildfire, so it was closed. My middle name‘s Blakiston (yes really), and it was my mother’s maiden name. The Falls, Mount Blakiston and the Blakiston Valley are all named after one of our ancestors, the English explorer Thomas Blakiston, who came through these parts in the 1850s. I was embarrassed to go home in 2019 without seeing the Falls; I may have to stay here permanently if I fail again.

It was in the high 20s yesterday, and we can’t help but notice that it’s about 20 degrees colder as we walk out the door this morning. It also looks very gloomy with a lot of rain predicted. I’m trying to look on the bright side; the Falls will surely be even more spectacular if they’re flowing a torrent.

We stop to stretch our legs at the famed Prince of Wales Hotel overlooking Upper Waterton Lake. I wasn’t aware that Wales was part of Scotland, but the staff appear to have gone out of their way to look like nineteenth century Scots, all decked out in their kilts. They might have carried it off too if only one of them wasn’t Chinese and wandering backwards and forwards across the lobby wielding a large vacuum cleaner.

We head off along the narrow roller coaster of a road towards the Falls. We round a corner and stop, staring in amazement at the bear about to cross the road in front of us. It seems to be taking it’s time. Ooops. The life sized cardboard cutout is very realistic, but it seems like a cruel trick to play on the likes of us hoping to see the real thing. We should be angry, but instead we all just get the giggles.

The road ends and I set off on the one kilometre hike towards the Falls. It’s a bit chilly and wet for Issy and Emma who decide to stay in the car. It is indeed quite drizzly and all the surrounding peaks, including Mount Blakiston, are shrouded in mist and cloud. It all looks very spooky and atmospheric. I think I thought about climbing Mount Blakiston when we came here in 2019, although I‘m not sure exactly who I was trying to kid. It looks particularly forbidding today. I round a bend in the path to see a large deer with a full set of antlers standing right in front of me. That was pretty stunning.

I get my first glimpse of the Falls, and they are indeed a spectacular raging torrent. The locals have done a great job of building steel platforms and walkways over and around the chasm so visitors can get right in amongst the action.

I get chatting to a retired American couple who are here from Colorado for the first time. I can’t help but tell them about my family’s link to the area; I suppose it’s possible they might have believed me. The man tells me that he went surfing in New Zealand in the 1970s and met lots of Aussies, usually "to get pissed”. I do wonder sometimes about our reputation on the international stage. One of our tour guides in Maui told me that he surfed with a lot of Aussies in Europe in the 1980s; the only word he had to describe them was “naughty”.

Back on the road again we round a bend to see yet another cardboard bear cutout right next to the edge of the road. OK guys, that might have been funny the first time but we’re not falling for it again. Hang on, this one’s moving! It’s a real live bear right there in front of us. We scramble for cameras but we’re a bit slow on the draw, although Issy does manage to get a shot of its rear on her phone as it wanders slowly off into the trees. That was an unexpected highlight. It’s clearly a regular zoo out here.

We head into a cafe in Waterton Park village in search of lunch. The proprietor emerges from the rear to spruik his wares. He claims that he’s the local burger expert and goes on to describe his fare and how it’s made in great detail. It all sounds good, but there’s no one here and the decor is … well non-existent, it’s all drab grey ceilings, walls and floors, and grey laminex tables. We might get well fed if we stay here but I think we’d also all be suffering from depression by the time we got to leave. Burger man’s tried so hard; we feel both guilty and sorry for him as we slink out the door. The contrast between burger man’s establishment and the one a couple of doors along could scarcely be more stark - this place is bursting with character - lumberjack check, light fittings made from antlers and pine cones, and iconic Canadian symbols hanging from every available vertical surface. It’s also nearly full. I make a note to self that in the unlikely event of me ever opening a restaurant somewhere where there’s not likely to be too much repeat business, don’t stress too much about the chef, just make sure you hire the best available interior decorator.

Back in Lethbridge we share an excellent final meal of Italian with Emma and Michael .... well final until we catch up with them in Toronto in a week’s time.

---

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Alberta
Look like a beautiful bear.

[DaveandIssy]

A bear
Amazing, we drove around the corner, and there it was loping along the side of the road. What a highlight. Unfortunately by the time I retrieved my camera it had gone off into the woods, but at least Issy got this on her phone. That day was a real highlight.

[RENanDREW]

Bear!
How lovely to see one in the wild! And from the safety of your car :)

[DaveandIssy]

The bear
We were so lucky. Came around a corner and there it was, right next to the car. Priceless!