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Dalyan from Kaunos Citadel
Maybe the population estimate of 5,000 was accurate as this is all there is to the town: the plan for the day was to drive to the Datca Peninsula south of the major tourist resort of Marmaris as it’s reported as having some of Turkey’s most beautiful coastline. However, on checking the distances involved this would have required at least 2 ½ hours driving each way. And, having assimilated and adopted much of the very relaxed lifestyle of Dalyan, we decided instead to stay here and have another stroll to the Lycian/Roman ruins at Kaunos just across the river. We even had the same boatwoman, Mina, who had ferried us across previously and despite our warm greetings she failed to recognise her former customers: another blow to the self esteem. Halfway to the ruins, after no more than 400 yards, we decided to pause and sample the freshly pressed pomegranate juice (for Jane) and orange juice (for Jenks) on offer at a roadside stall: delicious. The orange juice was pressed while we waited and it took something like 10 oranges to make one glass of juice; at a cost of £1.20 – great value. Then onward to Kaunos and while Jane sat in the theatre and enjoyed the scenery and tranquility of the place I
headed up the adjacent hill known as the Citadel. Relying on instincts finely honed as a youngster climbing the cliffs in Cardigan Bay I followed a goat track up the hill instead of following the marked route and ended up at the top of a cliff with no way forward; but which nevertheless had fine views of the Dalyan River Delta. Suitably chastened I backtracked and went up the marked route most of the way, then followed what appeared to be the original path into the fortifications and to the summit. The views from the top were stunning: 365 degrees from Dalyan Town, the river and delta, Kaunos ruins and back to the town. This was too good not to share so I descended to the theatre and convinced Jane that she
had to climb the Citadel as it provided a view that she would savour forever. The sales pitch worked and we headed up the hill and this time were able to follow the markers all the way to the way; although rather gratifyingly my previous (second) route was better than the marked route. Jane was suitably impressed with the view and we stayed at the top for a
Kaunos Roman ruins from the Citadel
with the theatre in the foreground and the ancient harbour in the centre while to soak it in. Then we headed back down (my route) and strolled back to the ferry, stopping on the way to enjoy some more fresh pomegranate and orange juice from the same place as we stopped on our way to Kaunos.
After lunch we took another long walk along the beach at Iz Tuzu followed by a swim (this time I actually went in the pool– and enjoyed it). In the evening Pete and Margaret invited us to their new villa in the hills overlooking the beach and delta to watch the sunset and have some dinner. Both events were great: the sun went down behind the mountains opposite in a blaze of glory while Margaret served a delicious dinner of stuffed marrow with green beans as we sat on their veranda enjoying the sunset. Another excellent day.
Tuesday 28th May: staying with our relaxed approach to life we decided on an easy walk along the riverside path to see a bit more of the town. Then, having started the walk, we changed our minds and hired a launch from the local boating co-operative to take us upriver to have a look at Lake Koycegiz and
the hot springs and mud baths at Sultaniye. Another happy call. The cruise was very comfortable and relaxing and the lake was very beautiful. We saw a few terrapins amongst the reeds and large numbers of bright blue dragonflies skimming the surface of the lake. We stopped off at the Sultaniye Hot Springs and Mud Baths to take a look but not to partake – except for a cup of coffee. Then it was back down the river and out to the beach at Iz Tuzu for what had become our regular afternoon two mile constitutional walk.
In the evening Pete and Margaret called at the villa and we all went out for a very enjoyable and convivial dinner alongside the Dalyan River, looking across at the Lycian rock tombs which are illuminated at night; and with some free entertainment in the form of a large turtle which kept popping up alongside the restaurant – a very rare event apparently. A fine way to conclude what had been a most relaxing and enjoyable stay in Dalyan.
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Pete
non-member comment
Hi Ant, Is the view from the top of the Citadel really 365 degrees! The Turks are bloody clever but not that clever! Glad that you and Jane had a lovely time; we did too and really enjoyed your company. We had a feed of run of beans from our \"baji\" today. Water is back on and Margaret is ecstatic. All the best Peter and Margaret .