Advertisement
Published: October 8th 2006
Edit Blog Post
I haven't really had any plans for the past week so I thought I might use my internet time to open up a discussion on the finer points in life. Fortunately this part of the world is, or has been, replete with three of the four points of discussion. The fourth, work, is unfortunately a little scarce all over Turkey. In short, if you want to avoid it, come here.
I left you guys in Trabzon with a bus ticket to Dogubeyazit burning a hole in my pocket. This is the most easterly town in Turkey & just a stone's throw from Iran. It's also deep inside Kurdistan, and the military checkpoint at 3am was the first of many. In short, Kurdistan doesn't exist. The Kurds are a formerly nomadic people who make up around 80% of the population in eastern Turkey as well as considerable proportions of neighbouring countries. They are understandably very proud of their heritage, but just happened to be busy farming and roaming while people around them were drawing borders on maps. They missed the boat so to speak. Now turkey is actively suppressing the Kurdish culture, disallowing their language and labelling Kurds, Mountain Turks. Unfortunately
Mt Ararat (Agri Dagi)
All 3611m (top to bottom).. I thınk I'll settle for somethıng a lıttle more.. sedate the PKK, a group fighting for Kurdish culture & a breakaway country called Kurdistan are using violent means to achieve their end. Hence, military checkpoints everywhere. Sorry, that's my rant, but this is where I am. This story is impossible to miss.
So, the finer points in life: google "Dogubeyazit" and "bird flu" & you'll find that in January this year 4 children died of confirmed cases. "I'll have the lamb thanks"
On religious zealots, if you leave out the "bird flu" and re-google Dogubeyazit you'll get some bird flu hits and a whole host of "must see" attractions.. there's the Iranian border crossing, with it's neighbouring meteorite crater, Ishak Pasa Palace, Mt Ararat of Noah and the boat fame, and Noah's boat of crazy fundamentalist American fame. We met a sidekick to Ron Wyatt (the fundamentalıst), a Turkish crazyman who runs the Anchor Stone International Ark Museum. We watched him get into a fight with our over laid back guide as he was joking with his friend about the worth of the museum. He was my only religious zealot, but if it was tourist time I'm sure there'd be a lot more. To avoid, come now -
not during summer.
Agri Dagi, or Mt Ararat, is another big zealot and tourist puller. I thought I'd like to climb it, then looked into things - it's 5100m & takes three days bottom to top.. I put my plans on hold. I'd still like to climb it, it's a beautiful mountain and not a hard trip - next time (Pete?)!
The last of the "must see's" is Ishak Pasha Palace which is amazing. I made two trips there, one with gay Aussie Brendan & another en route to a more achievable peak with Iranian cum Czech cum Scot cum longtime traveller Eric. It was built by an important couple of dudes in the 1700's.. really, I just think it looks nice 😉
On avoiding children you'll be surprised to hear I'm having trouble. It's my shorts you see.. locals don't wear them, children don't care about locals. The echo of "hallo" and "wir ar you from" has progressed to "mahnee, mahnee" with a literal tribe of little followers trapsing along the street behind us. It's really difficult, everyone's so friendly & genuinely excited to meet "tourists", but kids just push it too far and the cash
Me at 2998m On top of Nemrut Dagi..
The first tıme I've clımbed a volcano sans board or bıke!? culture takes over... I find myself being really rude to everybody by the end of a day. To avoid kids, wear trousers at all times.
Eric the traveller and I have been hitching down from Dogubeyazet, through Van, and on to here in Tatvan. He's been on the road for 2 1/2 years travelling through Asia and the Middle East and is best described as a Mark Eades travelling twin (for those of you who've had the experience of mark's company) - it's been interesting! We've covered almost 500km for $14 and spent last night camping in an empty house (with the neighbours permission of course 😊 ). My first day of work just moved out by one more day!!!
Eric and I have also been doing a fair bit of hiking, which has been good for the body and soul.. We met a theatre group while out on one such adventure at a ruined castle. We heard Kurdish music from a distance, then a couple of middle aged guys came around the corner and started chatting, then another couple, then a girl.. and a drum and people were dancing, then we were dancing.. and everything was going
in circles on the top of this hill.. then they were off just as quickly as they showed up - with an invite to come watch them perform later that night. We were blown away so figured we'd better go. The theatre was really interesting, totally in Kurdish 😊 But they invited us to an "underground" Kurd social - illegal would you believe?! Anyway, song, dance, cay tea.. we felt very priveliged!
Sorry, that didn't really fit into the theme of the blog - but was such an amazing experience. Take every opportunity, you never know what'll come of it.
Not sure where next, but ıt's tıme to begın a quıck run back west to Greece. Mıss you all!
PS. can somebody PLEASE send me the new Shapeshifter album??? I've got 2 tracks playing off myspace now & feel very much like a night out 😊
Advertisement
Tot: 0.167s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 24; qc: 121; dbt: 0.1036s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Erik
non-member comment
Heya Kiwi Dude
Hey there, How are things. I hope you have managed to get to Cappadocia and beyond without too much trouble since we split in Tatvan (I, of course, forgot to get your e-mail so I can only write through your site). I am now in Diyarbakir, hotbed of Kurdish nationalism and the like, but at night it looks rather nice. Keep up the good work, Erik. P.S. You forgot to mention to your female readership that I am good looking and single!