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Published: January 3rd 2011
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Where did you grow up? What did you learn at school? And than...where did you or are you travelling? All these may be granted for most of us, but it is actually the beauty of what make humans so different.
I studied latin and greek in high school for 5 and 6 years, Mari's father is fluent in ancient greek and latin (and in a few more languages). For us, the Roman Empire history is part of our education, deep down there. We grew up visiting sites and learning about our ancient past. You will see my point very soon.
Leslie is born in Asia. He has been for few years in an International American school and for the last 18 month in an International English school. English system in Year 6 study the Aztecs, but Leslie did not go through the Romans yet...so his only knowledge of the Romans comes from National Geographic (trust me, he has a lot access to it!).
And intersting enough, his first encounter with the Roman Empire has occured during this Christmas holidays in Jordan, and later in Syria. I have had the chance to go twice to Greece, also to few
nice sites in Italy, Turkey or even Germany, but I must admit, the Middle East has great ressources when it comes to archeologic sites.
Today our program is a long one. First, Jerash in the morning...followed by the Desert "Castles" of the Eastern Desert. The first part being Jerash, the old Roman City of Gerasa, and the later ones dating from the Umayyads, mainly between 661 and 750 AD.
We could have rented a car, but it seems that getting in a taxi can be cheaper, and a more relaxing experience. Cost, 60JD for a full day on the road, doing some 250km around. My way to get this price...stop any taxi on the road, just make sure that when you do it, you are far away enough to any big hotels...and ask him...tomorrow, we go there...you take us for $$...he thinks...he thinks...he gives you his phone number, you answer...I don't need your phone, tomorrow morning, you come or not for that price...saved us a lot of time, and guess I was happy with the price we paid.
Jerash is our first stop. The Roman City of Gerasa is well-known for few things, the Hadrian's Arch, nice
hippodrome, an amazing Forum and Cardo Maximus (central street), a very nice Nymphaeum (main public fountain). You can add to these 2 nice theatres. The main South Theatre has a capacity of 5,000 and to top it up, the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Artemis plus few other jewels. I was most impressed by the Agora. And for dessert, obviously few churches around the site.
If you do visit Jerash, do plan a good 3 hours for the full site. Make sure you also arrive early. The site opens at 8am, we were there at 8.20am (45 minutes drive from Amman)...no shops opened yet, not touts around...when we left at 11.20, it was a very different story. I love ancient sites...without the crowds!
After this we made our way East for a different experience. The Eastern Desert is...East of Amman. It is a desert of gravels without much interest. It is also the road to reach either Saudia Arabia, or on the left, the road to Iraq and Bagdad. Before the international airport in Bagdad could welcome commercial flights (not that long ago) , this was the main road used to reach Bagdad...today, it is crowded
with trucks over trucks...and our little taxi!
Our first stop, Qasr al-Hallabat. Well, they call these "castles"...but these are not really castles...rather solid buildings from another era of glory. The glorious period being mainly the one of the Ummuyyads...aka the same as the big mosque in Damas or Aleppo. The castle was locked, but the gatekeeper happily opened for us the door to discover a very nice work of renovation inside the castle. If you go there, make sure you make it inside the castle as the outside is less than impressive....and don't forget to keep some change for the gatekeeper!
Our second stop, Qasr al-Azraq. This is the one on the cross-road where on the right you go to Saudi Arabia, and on the left to Iraq. Qasr al-Azraq is more massive...mainly black basalt massive contruction.
Third stop, Qusayr Amra. The smallest of the 4, but the frescoes inside are impressive. This is actually more of a bath house than a castle! But these frescoes...naked women...or very "simply" dressed women. Ok, if it was Roman, you would tell me, why is he making such a fuss...the answer is simple, the Ummayyads were Muslims so I guess
their views have changed over the centuries!
Our last stop, only 50km away from Amman was the Qasr Kharana. Massive from the outside, this may have been the prefered one for Leslie...great place to play hide and seek!
We made our way back to Amman after a long day. Our next stop, a new country...but for this...as usual...wait a little, I'm getting late on sorting out our pictures!
Welcome to 2011...with love from 3 of us!
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The Travel Camel
Shane Dallas
Like the feeling the isolation in this photo - the Qasr Kharana does feel as if it is in the middle of nowhere.