Walking Tel Aviv

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Tel Aviv is an eminently walkable city. That is, if you keep a sharp eye out for bicycles, electric skateboards, electric scooters, and the occasional in-line skater. You also have to be able to ignore all the cars and buses honking at you if you have the nerve to cross the street when they want to make a turn when the crossing light is in your favor.

The City of Tel Aviv dates its beginning to 1909 when a group of Zionists, wanting to leave the squalor of Jaffa, parceled out land on the sand dunes north that city. Meir Dizengoff, the first mayor of Tel Aviv, drew up the city’s first master plan. He envisioned it as an urban village, incorporating gardens and open spaces into urban life. The population of Tel Aviv grew dramatically when the Nazis came to power, and an influx of European Jews came here.

The White City

Much of Tel Aviv dates to the 1930s and 1940s. As such the local architecture owes much the newcomers who flooded the city. Among the émigrés were a number of German architects trained in the Bauhaus, or International, style. There are roughly 4,000 Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv.

Sadly, many of these buildings have been neglected and are covered with graffiti; much of this section of the city could stand a coat of paint to bring it back to its former glory as “The White City.” Still, the beautiful bones of these structures remain, and in 2003 UNESCO named the White City a World Heritage site.

Some interesting examples are found around Dizengoff Circle, Rothschild Street, and the Carmel Market. The Bauhaus Center at 99 Dizengoff Street also runs walking tours of the most prominent buildings.



The Haganah Museum

I am interested in military history, and I particularly liked the Haganah Museum. The Haganah was the forerunner of the Israeli Defense Force (IDF), and the museum tells of the organization’s determination in the face of overwhelming odds.

Located in the house once owned by one of the Haganah’s founders, it takes you through the history of Israel’s defense, from the early days of farmers and shepherds keeping a watch over the borders to recent times. Told through interactive exhibits, short films, and written descriptions – in English and Hebrew - it’s an interesting way to spend an hour or so. The day I was there a large contingent of IDF soldiers were visiting the museum as well. You must show a photo ID and pass through security before entering the museum.



History on Street Signs

Most of the main streets and many of the side streets are named after important figures in Israel’s history. Sure, everyone has head of David ben Gurion, but how about Trumpledore? Or Arlovorof? Or ben Yehuda? If you just take note of the streets you walk, and then look up the names when you get a free moment, you’ll get a capsule history of Israel.

To get you started, Josef Trumpledore was a Russion Zionist who died in 1920 defending an Israeli settlement. His last words were "It does not matter, it is good to die for our country” Haim Arlovorof was a politician who believed in cooperation between the new Jewish state and the Arab League. He also negotiated an agreement that allowed 60,000 Jews to leave Nazi Germany with much of their property and immigrate to Palestine. And Eliezer ben Yehuda was the driving force behind making Hebrew the national language of Israel. Now, isn’t that much more interesting than “Main Street?”



Tel Aviv Port

Tel Aviv was once a working port. Now, it’s where Israelis come to play. The old warehouses have been turned into trendy shops and restaurants and the area serves as a venue cultural and entertainment events.

The port is at the northern end of 14 kilometres – or about 8.5 miles of beach. The beach is clean, broad and public, and the water is clear and shallow for a good distance from the shore. There is a boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach, making for a very pleasant walk. Unlike beaches in Jordan, Israeli woman show a bit of skin when at the seashore.

The beach is broken into different sections; in one area you can bring your dog off-leash. There is also a walled off section of beach for Haredim, or ultra-Orthodox Jews. This area is open to women on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, and to men on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. On Saturday this area is open to everyone since Haredim do not visit the beach on the Sabbath.

Even though Tel Aviv is a fairly modern city, there continues to be some surprising contrasts. You have the gleaming high-rises to the east along with horse-drawn work wagons on Dizengoff Street. Still, with its cafes, beaches, and friendly faces, it’s a place I will happily visit in the future.

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Photos

Bauhaus
Note playful sculpture

Eliahu Golomb home
Eliahu Golomb was one of the founders of the Haganah, and stayed active until his death in 1945.

street signs
History on the corner

Haganah sign
Showing the site along the boardwalk where a secret weapons factory stood.

Just 'cuz it fits...
...doesn't mean you should wear it.

scooter
These electric scooters were every where.

no bacon
No bacon cheeseburgers here.