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OK, so it’s my own fault. When I was reading up on Tel Aviv before my trip I read about a large, open air fresh market. In my haste, I misread the name of the market as the Camel Market. Looking for it on the map, I also found the Camel Market south of Dizengoff Center. When I got here, I found that it is actually the Carmel Market on HaCarmel Street. Damn that tiny print on the map!
Whatever its name, the Carmel Market is a treat. Stretching for about a quarter of a mile along a street closed to traffic, Carmel Market is crammed with small stalls selling all manner of fruits and vegetables, and cheese, and household goods, and fish, and souvenirs, and prepared foods, and underwear, and more. It’s crowded and noisy and absolutely wonderful.
I was offered dates and challah, both good, and halvah that was OK but not up to the Halvah King of Jerusalem’s standards. I found the spice stalls fascinating. In addition to the spices, every stall has spice blends meant to enhance meat or rice. And of course, every vendor’s spice mix is just a little bit different,
Miri Aloni
She sang "Shir La'Shalom" standing next to Itzak Rabin on the day he was assassinated. and his mix is better than the next guy’s.
Follow your nose to the food stands; I had the best shwarma I’ve ever had here. Stuffed into a pita along with a yogurt sauce, cucumbers, tomatoes and cabbage, it almost more than I could get my mouth around, but I managed somehow.
On Tuesdays and Fridays the artists’ market is held on the adjacent street, Nachalat Benyamin. This is a fun street fair scene, with music ranging from the classical string quartet at one end to the folk singer at the other end, and everything in between. Individual vendors sell handmade soap, high-end Judaica, wooden puzzles, stained glass, and crafts. You have a chance to talk to the individual artist, and there is no pressure to buy. While there weren't any bargains to be had, everything was unique.
Even when the street fair isn't on, Nachalat Benyamin has some interesting shops and plentiful coffee cafes. There were also a lot of fabric shops here, some of which commanded very high prices.
After I had browsed my way through the artists’ market, I came upon a very large, very enthusiastic crowd singing along
with a female folk-singer. She, and the song, were obviously well known and loved. She wasn't familiar to me, but I took her picture so I could ask someone her identity.
Turns out she was Miri Aloni, a famous Israeli singer, and the song was “Shir La’Shalom,” or Song for Peace. On the day that Itzak Rabin was assassinated, she had stood next to him at a rally and sung this song. A blood-stained copy of the lyrics was later found in his pocket. The song was written by an Israeli soldier who lost a leg during the Six Day War, and Israeli soldiers always sing along with the chorus. If you watch the last three minutes of the YouTube clip, I bet you’ll be singing along, too.
It was a grand way to spend an afternoon, but I kind of wish there had been camels.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
The print keeps getting smaller and smaller.
Too funny about misreading the camel market. I enjoyed your story about Miri Aloni.