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Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem
August 3rd 2008
Published: August 3rd 2008
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In the Old City
Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Playing hooky on this Tuesday afternoon. Actually, I’ve decided none of the classes interest me on Sunday and Tuesday afternoons so my day ends at 4pm instead of 5:15. Gets to be a long day otherwise! I can tell I am nearing the end of my stay here not only because of not being in class all the way through the afternoon but also I have been coming back to the apartment for lunch instead of bringing it to the yeshiva. Laziness, perhaps? How unlike me to not make and bring a lunch for the day!! (you can stop laughing now, Shari!). And it isn’t like I don’t have time in the morning to make a lunch; I do. I just choose to fill it with doing other things like yoga, email, chatting with Judy, etc. And we have a 1 ½ hour lunch break so it’s nice to get off the campus.

Judy and I had a fun evening yesterday. We left classes early (oh, that again!) and went to the Old City. She hadn’t been there yet and wanted to go to a few places, i.e. shopping! And of course, to go to the Western Wall. The weather continues to be cooler than it had been so walking around in the evening has just been fabulous. On the way back to the apartment we came across some folk dancing and sat and watched that for a while. Tonight we head back to the shuk. We were invited to venture outside Jerusalem for a trip to Massada and Ein Getti on Thursday so I’m looking forward to that.


Friday, August 01, 2008

Wow. Beginning of August already. I can’t believe how quickly my time here is going!

Judy and I accompanied Rebecca to the archeological fortress of Masada where we attended the Bar Mitzvah of one of her students from her synagogue. Masada is a popular place to have a Bar Mitzvah probably because of the historical significance of the community that lived (and died) here during Roman times. Their story is a popular one, and even made into a TV movie series I remember watching as a kid, where a group of some 900 rebels held out for 3 years against a Roman siege. And when the Romans finally breached the fortress’s walls, they only found bodies. The community
Church of the Holy SepulcherChurch of the Holy SepulcherChurch of the Holy Sepulcher

Where Jesus's body was wrapped and annointed after his death.
died by its own hand as a free people rather than be enslaved by Rome. Also, one of the oldest known synagogues has been found here so that may also attribute to many B’nai Mitzvot!

We were at the cable car to the top of the mountain by 7:30 am and it was already unbearably hot. Masada is among the string of rugged mountains that line the Dead Sea. The terrain there is reminiscent of the American southwest from the Grand Canyon up through even the Badlands of South Dakota. Beautiful. And of course, the Dead Sea area is a valley in the desert so it’s even hotter than Jerusalem.

The Bar Mitzvah was lovely and the family was most gracious and welcoming to Judy and me as we weren’t part of the original ensemble. Rebecca didn’t want to drive there by herself (she rented a car) and so invited us along, which was okay with the family anyway. Driving through Jerusalem is a challenge. Israelis like using their horn even if it isn’t warranted. Different lanes have different signals so not everyone gets to go on green so one has to pay attention.

Anyway, after the service, the three of us did an audio tour of the fortress and took some fun photos. It’s fascinating to me how the community survived here as they did, not to also mention King Herod’s architectural ingenuity. He is becoming the character of interest to me as I find out all the amazing places he built.

We were convinced the people who lived there made it because they weren’t out in the middle of the afternoon like the rest of us tourists, but hey, we survived, too! When we came down off the mountain, we got iced coffees and a can of Pringles. Mmmm… something unbeatable about salt on a hot day! We are advised to make sure we eat salt (and sugars) because of the constant threat of dehydration and its opposite effect (the name escapes me) so we try to keep a balance of all three necessary elements. We then spent over an hour in the gift shop mostly I think because of the wonderful air conditioning!

Our adventure then took us to the Ein Gedi Spa, an oasis in the desert, where we floated in the Dead Sea, smeared black healing mud all over our bodies, and each had a 45 minute massage. Ahhhhh… The Dead Sea was a hoot. Since it’s the lowest point on earth, the water is dense with salt, so one can actually float on top of it. Floating is one thing but trying to right oneself to stand back up was quite the challenge! I didn’t stay in it for very long because the salt stung my freshly shaven legs from the night before. I anticipated the sting but went in anyway, of course. The mud was fun, too, and I wish we had more time to leave it on and let its healing powers really work. As it was, we got there late in the afternoon and only had so much time before our massages and then the spa closed for the evening. But what we were able to get of the mud was wonderful. Between it and the oils from my massage, my skin hadn’t felt so soft in years! I’ll have to check out some spa options back home…

We got back mid evening and I just about crashed. Between the heat, the sun, and the intensity of all we did, I had a tremendous headache on the trip back. Thank goodness for Aleve! I decided to stay in today after a wonderful night’s sleep to do laundry, clean the apartment and just plain ole take it easy. I think we brought some of the heat back up from the Dead Sea because it’s hotter here in Jerusalem than it has been for quite a while. We are relaxing here before heading out for Shabbat services and dinner later on. Judy, Rebecca, and a bunch others will be leaving next week already so this is our final Shabbat together. I have one more Shabbat, but I know it won’t be my last!


Sunday, August 03, 2008

The heat wave only lasted one day. It’s been absolutely lovely here weather-wise. Tonight, I am enjoying a cool breeze coming through the front window of the apartment as I write. I’m still amazed that we haven’t needed to run the air conditioning. Of course, it helps having fans…

We had another wonderful Shabbat weekend. Friday night we went to a Jewish renewal service where the singing was beautiful. It felt like we were at a revival get-together - lots of repetitious chanting with hands raised to the heavens. I wasn’t as moved this time around but enjoyed the service none-the-less.

Saturday morning we went to The Great Synagogue (no kidding, that’s the name) to experience a “true” orthodox service and hear their renown cantor and men’s choir. Judy described it like being at high mass - or at least we felt like we were at a concert of Jewish religious music. It was quite impressive, actually. We also got to experience a different kind of separation of the sexes - we sat in the balcony. Literally, we were in nose-bleed section. Balconies are a popular place where orthodox communities put their women but this one is really extreme. Unless the rabbi shouted during his sermon, we couldn’t hear a thing. I’m glad we experienced being at this particular service - it isn’t how I choose to pray with women separate from men, but it was nice to witness. The other orthodox community I’ve been to and written about also has the division between men and women (the mechitza) but there, women lead prayer, are called to the Torah for aliyah and are on the same floor with the men. Much more egalitarian while still honoring tradition…

I think I would also categorize this Shabbat weekend as an eating one. It was non-stop. I’m still full!! I have not been at all disappointed with any meals or foods I’ve had. In fact, I’m sure I’ve put on weight.

Judy and many others are getting ready to leave this week with the end of the second session. We think many people have already “checked out” mentally; physically, there seem to be less students around campus as people are deciding to do other things before they leave. I’m glad I tacked on more time at the beginning and end of my trip so I don’t have to miss class. Once Judy leaves, it’ll be nice to have the apartment once again to myself before Arlette’s friend comes back, which I think is next Tuesday (the day I leave). Don’t get me wrong - Judy is awesome and I’m grateful for how things turned out. I’m just looking forward to spending time by myself before heading back to the States. I still can’t believe my time here is almost done…



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A funny momentA funny moment
A funny moment

We were waiting for the flag to unfurl...
The mud queens!The mud queens!
The mud queens!

At Ein Gedi Spa at the Dead Sea.
After the spaAfter the spa
After the spa

The pink are mountains of Jordan


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