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Published: December 21st 2008
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven: 9 miles
This day turned out to be the only rainy day I would encounter. It was also the most strenuous. We had to ascend the Devil’s Staircase, the highest point along The Way. It was so cold, windy and rainy. None of the walkers spoke much, we all just climbed, rested, passed each other, rested, climbed…. At the top, going around the bend, the wind hit so hard, I was afraid I would be knocked off the edge. Then came the descent into Kinlochleven. Mile, after mile, after mile, downhill. My knee was killing me. I was using my hiking poles for support. It took me forever to make it hobbling down the hill. I was passed by everyone, including an eighty-something man, carrying a full pack. I was pathetic.
Finally, I arrived at the Blackwater Hostel in Kinlochleven, very cold and wet. My jacket performed well so my top was dry, but my shoes and pants were soaked and my back had yet to arrive. I was shown my room, with a bunk bed and private bath. I was told I would have a roommate, but she hadn’t arrived yet. Who could
it be? Who was slower than me? I couldn’t imagine anyone I had met already. I took off my pants, shoes and socks and climbed into bed to wait for my bag to arrive so I could get some dry clothes. My roommate showed up before my bag and it turned out she was this lady originally from New Jersey, living for the last 30 years with her English husband in England, that I had spoken with earlier, as I was passing her up Devil’s Staircase. She told me to go ahead of her and catch up to my group. I told her I had no group and she said she was solo as well. After my clothes arrived, we hung out in Kinlochleven, went shopping for food, came back to the hostel and sat in the kitchen, drinking hot chocolate, with other walkers, recounting the miserable day.
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West Highland Way: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
