Walking The Way: Day 4

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June 5th 2008

Published: December 21st 2008

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Lani

West Highland Way Day 4

Inverarnan to Crianlarich, Scotland

Inverarnan to Crianlarich to Tyndrum: 12 miles

I woke up to see the screen around my tent covered, totally, by midges. I knew once I opened it, I would be inundated. Eventually, I had to get up, so I unzipped an crawled out as fast as possible, which is not fast enough. Within seconds, I was covered. I found myself trying to slather on skin so soft (basically rubbing drowning midges into any exposed skin) while attempting to breathe. Every breath I took contained midges. They were the air. I totally underestimated the painful, little monsters.

I had to pack up my tent with a sarong wrapped around my head while trying to wave midges away from my face. My tent, sleeping bag and all my gear were full of midges. I went to the little campground store, when it opened, and bought a midge head net for my next encounter. I also bought deet. I needed something more substantial than Avon. Between the net, poison and breakfast, I spent $26.

Another nice day to walk, and walk, and walk. My left knee started bothering me on descents when I neared Crianlarich (about the 1/2 way

West Highland Way Day 4

Inverarnan to Crianlarich, Scotland

point for the day). I decided to take the long descent into Crianlarich and check into taking a train to the next stop. I ended up getting coffee and buying a knee brace, which didn't seem to help.

Back on the trail, I was miserable. I started out ascending a few miles, which I knew meant I was in for a long descent. Sure enough, it was downhill for several miles. I could barely walk. My pace was probably less than a mile an hour. Finally, the trail leveled out and I was lucky enough to actually score a dorm room (all to myself) at By the Way hostel and campground in Tyndrum. No setting up a midge filled tent for me. I met a nice German couple and an English guy as well as three older English women at the hostel. The owners were great. Very friendly and helpful. I hung up my tent and sleeping bag to dry and shook all the dead midges out, so I wouldn't have to deal with them when I set up camp again. I spent $28 for the room, $12 on laundry and $2 on coffee. I also spent $20 on