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Published: September 22nd 2007
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Ullapool from the Hill Walk
Yup, that's the entire town. One of my favourite places ever. There is a hill walk just outside of Ullapool, probably only 800 feet or so of elevation gain. However, this "walk" had defeated me twice already. The first time was during my visit in November of '99 - within sight of the summit, I was forced to literally hug the mountain as 100-mph winds threatened to throw me off the side and dash me against the rocks on the way back to town. This was the same day in which a hailstorm left my face scraped and bleeding. Hill 1, Steve 0.
The next attempt was in 2001, where we reached the trailhead only to discover the gate locked shut due to the foot and mouth disease outbreak. Hill 2, Steve 0.
This time, I was determined for things to be different. I went for my morning run and ran about 1/2 way up, then we returned later in the morning to finish the job. On the way through town to the trailhead, we ran into an older lady that was telling us a little bit about the town. She was on her way to Inverness for a day of shopping - that's the absolute furthest south she would
Sheep by the Road
Some times of the year, the sheep will fall asleep in the middle of the road for extra warmth. It's not at all unusual to have to stop the car, get out, and wake them up. travel. Those of you that are familiar with Scotland, Inverness is still *way* north! She was also telling us about the school in town, and how kids are bused in from hours away, all over the highlands.
So finally we got on the trail, and I practically ran full-speed up to the summit! I was determined not to let this thing beat me again. And the view at the top did not disappoint. Still, I have to respect any "hill" that can keep me at bay for 8 years. But what a view of the highlands, and of Ullapool.
I will never forget that 1st attempt all that time ago. Dark, brooding clouds encircling peaks thousands of feet above. It gave me an appreciation for the legends and stories that still are told to the school children up here. It really is like another, forbidding world, yet to be conquered - and it's not all that hard to imagine monsters and menacing creatures making their homes here. I think it's hard for us in the States to appreciate.
North of Ullapool, the signs don't have town names on them anymore - they simply say
a Tuath -
The Hubris of the Beach
Apparently, even beaches have egos. (Enlarge to read the sign!) "The North". The rain had closed in on us today, but you could still see where the highlands begin to open up, flattening all around you save for a massive, solitary peak or two. And then we arrived at Durness. To go any further north would be across the Arctic Ocean to the Russian territory of Chukotskiy, near the Bering Strait. It only boasts a population of a couple hundred...oh, and the UK's most northerly golf course.
It was
cold in Durness! And windy, and rainy. Apparently August doesn't mean much this far north. We explored the beach and stopped in for tea before heading around Ben Hope and back south towards Inverness. By the time we found a place to park Miss Clio, hunted up dinner, and got settled in the hostel, that was more than enough.
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