Day 9 - Horton to Hawes (14 miles) - Glorious sunshine, through the 'wilderness' limestone moors to Wensleydale - Wallace and Grommit country!

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Monday 5 May (Bank Holiday Monday) - If England is known for its picturesque countryside on a small scale, then the walk from Horton to Hawes really breaks the mould. Vast expanses of limestone hills and valleys carpeted in sweeping moorland scenery and providing grand vistas were the order of the day. As we hiked further and further away from the village of Hawes, the was increasingly a feeling of genuine wilderness and complete isolation...the uphill trudge to Jackdaw Hill (1,312ft) was 'hot' work for three hours. We met a couple of very friendly cyclists en route, who seemed to be even 'hotter' than us.

As we looked back, we could still see the impressive Three Peaks of the Yorkshire Dales (Pen-y-ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside) behind us for much of the day and eventually emerged into the large vale of Wensleydale (Wallace and Grommit country), bordered by the majestic sweeping slopes and fells with evocative names such as 'Wildboar Fell', 'Lovely Seat' and 'Buttertubs Pass'.

Following the track we passed Sell Gill Holes (which was a 'big' hole), apparently a famous mecca for potholers - which leads to a huge underground cavern. This 'big' hole is only to attempted by those well equipped (we remember this from our fantastic 7 hour epic underground caving experience in New Zealand). Sadly we weren't well equipped and so decided to pass! Anyway, with a 14 mile high-level trek to achieve - we didn't have time to head down and dangle around dark underground caves.

As we gained more height we had excellent views of limestone scars, together with some classic karst scenery. After following a track for sometime it was a relief to come to a rolling green road, with an extensive conifer plantation. Eventually we reached an impressive deep limestone gorge known as Ling Gill. It is thought that fragments of Ling Gill were part of a sub-alpine forest. As we crossed the picturesque Ling Gill bridge, it was interesting to note a just about legible inscription, which says 'ANNO 1765 THYS BRIDGE WAS REPAIRED AT THE CHARGE OF THE WHOLE OF WEST RYDEING'.

We continued to climb and climb until we reached a height of about 1,840 ft, and were then much relieved that the path started to level out. Seeing the small village of Gayle, we knew that the end of the day was nearly in sight and Steve started dreaming about food. After a couple nights of pie and chips (not much else on the menus!). Steve started to crave a spicy Indian curry, which sent us both into 'mmm' and a 'ooh' moments as he listed all of his curry favourites - it was almost torture, especially because we didn't think there would be an Indian restaurant in the small town of Hawes. How wrong were we! After 9 days, we found our very first Indian restaurant on the Pennine Way, the Prachin - Steve so excited to see the restaurant. His curry cravings were more than satisfied at this good and friendly Indian restaurant. Only 163 miles to go!

If you would like to support us in our fundraising effort, please go to www.ectopic.org.uk/fundraising/?p=46. Thank you very much for your support and messages. Lavinia and Steve

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Photos

Inscription on bridge repaired in 1765. Ling Gill, Yorkshire Dales
'ANNO 1765 THYS BRIDGE WAS REPAIRED AT THE CHARGE OF THE WHOLE OF WEST RYDEING'.