Abbey Dore

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01 June 2008

(must be my birthday !!)

Hi Folks !

The bright weather of yesterday has been replaced by the grey gloom that has dominated much of this trip. Aim of today is to sweep through the rest of southern Herefordshire and arrive at the CACC Hereford site by mid-afternoon. Note that the site is not actually in H but some seven miles to the east near the village of Tarrington.

First visit was to Abbey Dore which is a curious feature ….. Many of the parishes in this area have absurdly large churches for the size of the community but Abbey Dore is by far the largest in this category. Founded as a Cistercian Abbey in the twelfth century the exterior certainly has a monastic feel although there is a confusion of architectural styles. Entering the abbey the confusion deepens with the area used as the present day church surrounded by the remains of the medieval abbey. In brief following the forced closure of the abbey in 1547 (courtesy of H8) the abbey buildings quickly fell into a ruinous state. However the following century a local benefactor decided to restore the buildings while at the same time creating a parish church within thus creating the confusion of styles. V interesting architecturally even if less than pure.

Moving on and misreading one of my many maps encouraged me to take photos of the wrong church until I discovered the wonderful St Margaret’s (close to Bacton). Looking rather peculiar from the outside the discouraged passer-by will miss a real gem. Inside is possibly (definitely ?) the finest rood screen in the whole country. Possibly the whole world … and dear reader …. you did not know it existed. Did you ? Well Ok, nor did I. This is the only complete rood screen I have encountered on my travels and certainly the early sixteenth century workmanship is quite astounding.

The church at Peterchurch is interesting partly because the usual chancel arch separating nave and chancel consists of three distinct arches each separated by a short section of nave (or perhaps that should be chancel ?) The church also boasted a Saxon altar stone and those of you who remember Michael Caine’s epic performance in Zulu (1964) will recall that the largest number of VCs awarded in a single action was for the defence of Rorkes Drift. Robert Jones who was one of those so honoured is buried in this church sadly having committed suicide many years later because of the cumulative nature of his wounds. Very moving……

and, finally …. the church at Kilpeck (to the north west of Ross) is another must see. Twelfth century church with apse (unusual in England but not in this area) and possibly the finest medieval carvings you will find in any church in any country. Found both in the chancel arch and as gargoyles around the upper part of the exterior walls these are a curious mix of pagan and Christian symbols perhaps indicating that the local population held on to some of their earlier beliefs.

Arrived at the camp site to find the camping field to be large and with only three other tents so prepared to make use of the facilities ….

Steve

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