Canary Wharf & Isle of Dogs, Docklands - London - October 2022

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The United Kingdom’s capital city has much to offer, as evidenced by this quote from the famous 18^th century English writer Dr. Johnson: "Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford." — Samuel Johnson

Not sure I buy into that statement, however during this latest trip, I’m focusing on the East End of London which has an infamous claim to fame for being the “playground” of Jack the Ripper. I intend to explore the Isle of Dogs and Canary Wharf - two names probably not that well known (if at all, unless you’re a born-and-bred Londoner). Located on a large peninsula bounded on three sides by an S-curve meander in the river Thames - Isle of Dogs has been known locally as simply “the island” since the 19^th century. It juts out into the Thames, opposite Deptford and Greenwich, now dominated by the gleaming towers of Canary Wharf. The Tower of London and Tower Bridge are less than 3 miles to the west, and visible from my hotel.

A Little Bit of History:

The first attempts at draining what was then Stepney marsh took place in the Middle Ages, when this quagmire was gradually converted to cornfields and pasture. However, several centuries elapsed before reliable protection from flooding permitted the establishment of riverside docks and industry. By the early 16^th century, the peninsula was called the Isle of Dogs – for reasons unknown. The most popular explanation is that Henry VIII kenneled his hunting hounds here – which is credible as Greenwich Palace lay just across the river – but there is no proof of this.



The opening of the West India docks in 1802 transformed the northern part of the peninsula – and turned the southern part into something more like a real island. In 1815 two toll roads opened the hinterland, though it was several decades before many brave (and poor) souls began to set up home here. In the 1850s the southeastern portion of the peninsula was built up with industry along the waterfront and housing inland. Shortly afterwards, Millwall docks opened – related industries and dockworkers’ housing filled much of the western half. Large-scale municipal housebuilding projects brought many East Enders here after each of the world wars. The northern part of the Isle of Dogs now bears more resemblance to the business district of a modern American city than to anywhere else in London, while the south is an amalgam of East End terraces and council flats and upmarket waterfront apartment complexes.



Hilton’s Doubletree hotel at Columbia Wharf is my base of operations for the coming days - directly across the water from the Isle of Dogs. Since checking in yesterday, I’ve gone “all Brit” virtually overnight. What can cause this miraculous transformation you ask? Well, could it be reading the daily printed newspapers delivered to my room, or maybe crumpets topped with butter and honey and accompanied by a pot of hot tea served at the full English breakfast? But no - it’s definitely UK television which I adore. Between BBC-1 and Sky News channels I’m up to date on local and international news in minutes - I even get to view my two favorite Brit game shows: Tipping Point and The Chase on ITV - can it get any better than this? I think not. Weatherwise, that’s a given considering where I am and the time of year. Windy, chilly, raining with very occasional breaks in the overcast to catch a glimpse of sunlight. Eating breakfast in a cozy, 2-seater bow window nook this morning, I enjoyed those golden rays for about 45 minutes before the storm rolled back in (it had lasted most of the previous night). The “beeb” (aka BBC) informs me heavy rain is predicted all day - so much for my planned walking around Isle of Dogs trip - that’s on hold for tomorrow, fingers crossed! The distance across the Thames here is about 800 yards and takes less than 4 minutes to cross via water taxi from the Doubletree Nelson Pier to Canary Wharf Pier. Complimentary for all Hilton guests (3 pounds 50 pence otherwise - about $3.92), it departs every 10 minutes from 6am to 11:30pm every day. Local buses (C10 and 381) stop right outside the hotel’s front door, with easy access to Canada Water/Bermondsey underground stations. Traffic on the river is endlessly fascinating, with large Uber boats by Thames Clippers and hi-powered police cruisers, all traversing this famous waterway, around the clock.



Canary Wharf - it’s all here - a destination defined by culture with over 300 shops, cafes, bars, and restaurants; a year-round events program; one of London’s biggest roof gardens; and an award-winning, free-to-visit, public art collection. With the arrival of the Elizabeth Line (the latest underground train) bringing improved connections, whether you’re heading to the boardroom or the bar, looking for a sushi spot or a spin class, fresh art or fresh air - yes indeed, it’s all here. When it comes to shopping, Canary Wharf is the place to be, and is my first exploration destination. Covering most of the northern section of the peninsula, it’s a massive shopping complex containing five major malls: Cabot Place, Canada Place, Churchill Place, Crossrail Place and Jubilee Place. Each has a selection of shops, services, and activities as long as your arm. Served by three different underground railway systems: Elizabeth Line, Jubilee Line and DLR (Docklands Light Railway), four bus routes and a night bus, access from anywhere is a breeze. The complex also boasts a movie theater, a Go-Kart Raceway, an ice rink, and an Amazon Locker. It’s going to take hours to cover all of this. I can hear my credit cards screaming for mercy already.



This Doubletree is the BEST transportation hub of just about any hotel I’ve stayed in. From the front lobby via a covered glass walkway, it’s a short stroll down to the Nelson Docks station where water taxis, the DLR and the Underground subways can be accessed, and tickets purchased. The Docklands Light Railway is a rapid transit/light metro system that serves Canary Wharf/Isle of Dogs/Docklands region. It began operations in August 1987 and currently has 7 lines serving 45 stations. It’s a relatively short rail system - just 21 miles in total and being automated, it operates with minimal staffing.



Alighting from the quickie trip across the Thames via water taxi, I made my way into this massive complex. The weather gods had taken pity on me for a change, and the morning sun (bright enough to wear shades), crisp breeze and no rain was such a welcome relief. It was a pleasure to just stroll through the outdoor gardens which separate each individual mall. Throngs of people were flooding the walkways and gardens - obviously they couldn’t wait to be outdoors as well. Venturing indoors at Cabot Square and I immediately spotted my first shopping destination - Tesco Express - who doesn’t love Tesco and Sainbury’s for bargains when in the UK? My luck was holding, they had large Bird’s Custard Powder tins on sale for one pound 45 pence each (about $1.63) - I bought 4.



Exiting Cabot Square, another short walk across Canary Square brought me to Jubilee Place where yet another favorite store was waiting for me and my credit card - M&S Food Court. This is a division of Marks and Spencer’s, one of England’s most famous chain stores, with an outstanding reputation for lingerie and edibles - this food court certainly gives Harrod’s strong competition. Walking into the premises, my nose was assaulted with the most delicious smells emanating from the bakery and coffee stalls at the far end of the building. They stock everything from “soup to nuts” and of course, that includes those fabulous brandy-soaked plum puddings. It’s stock-up time for yours truly and thankfully, I’ve made room in my suitcase. November marks the beginning of the holiday season here, and an entire section of the store is now selling all their seasonal products, including cherry and orange liqueur Christmas Pudding wreaths, milk chocolate pinecones with liquid centers, Christmas iced fruit cakes and the ubiquitous Christmas Plum Puddings, which just happened to be on sale today at 6 pounds each (about $6.73) - I bought 2 large ones. I would have bought more, but they are so dense and heavy from ingredients and brandy, two was my current weight limit! I knew I should have brought a second suitcase on this trip.



Slowly making my way back towards the water taxi station, I spotted another interesting find: Tian Tian Market, which brings modern East Asian and Southeast Asian culture and living to London, by creating an “everyday lifestyle one-stop shop to shoppers”. Founded in 2016, this supermarket provides more than 10,000 premium niche groceries as well as traditional and trending street food to Canada Place Mall. The store has implemented a blend of contemporary Japanese interior design into this location - I had a marvelous time browsing this unique shop. With the current rate of exchange - 1 pound is $1.12 - my dollars go a lot further than they did just 3 months ago, on my last visit to the UK. Same story with the Euro - 1 equals $.98 virtually on par.



Returning to the Doubletree in midafternoon, my Fitbit was sending up balloons - I had walked that much! I sure racked up those steps today, I blew past the 10,000 easily - I must have covered at least ½ if not ¾ of this incredible place. What else can I say? Shopaholics, this is the place for you.



An Interesting Fact:



“Remember, remember, the fifth of November, gunpower, treason and plot - I see no reason why gunpower and treason, should ever be forgot.” And so goes the children’s rhyme which all British kids learn from a very early age. But what exactly it is and why is it celebrated annually, and has been, since 1605?



Known as Guy Fawkes Night, Guy Fawkes Day, Bonfire Night, or Fireworks Night (take your pick), this yearly commemoration observed on November 5^th, marks the events when a member of the Gunpower Plot, Guy Fawkes, was arrested while guarding explosives the plotters had placed beneath the House of Lords. Catholic plotters had intended to assassinate the protestant king James I and his entire parliament. To celebrate the fact the king survived this attempt, bonfires were lit around London and months later, King James mandated an annual public day of thanksgiving for the plot’s failure. Towards the end of the 18^th century, reports appear of children begging for money with effigies of Guy Fawkes and by 1850, changing attitudes resulted in the toning down of much of the day’s anti-Catholic rhetoric. Eventually in 1859 the observance of the November 5^th Act was repealed. These days, Guy Fawkes Day has become an enjoyable social event, although lacking much of its original focus.



I remember as a very young girl back in Manchester, standing next to a roaring bonfire, snacking on baked potatoes pulled from the inferno half-cooked, and black sticky treacle toffee, while the locally made Guy burned down to ashes. Tonight, here in London from the river’s edge, I will watch bonfires and fireworks light up the skies and envision 417 years of English history rolling across the waters.

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