Egypt - A Guide for First Time Visitors

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December 15th 2022

Published: December 15th 2022

As a former longtime resident (and now a somewhat infrequent visitor) of this incredible country, I’m often asked about planning “bucket list” trips to Egypt: what are the do’s and don’ts? Is it safe? And so on……given my extensive experience, it’s time to write a Primer Guide and make a valiant attempt to address the myriad of questions I frequently receive - so here goes……

A dream trip like this isn’t easy to plan but it can be done – just be prepared to do extensive online research, talk to people such as myself who know the country well, and read everything you can about Egypt. With that data in hand, yes you can pull off a once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

For most tourists visiting the Great Pyramids of Giza; the tombs in the Valley of the Kings; Karnak Temple; Abu Simbel and the endless Egyptian monuments, is a bucket list trip – and for very good reasons. A vacation here can reveal the secrets of one of the oldest and most advanced civilizations on Earth. But modern-day Egypt is also fraught with logistical problems, and many travelers harbor misconceptions about the culture, how much time to spend there and of course, how safe is it to travel around the country.

One of the first things you will notice is the friendliness and openness of locals (not to mention more traffic and crowds than you ever thought possible). Keep an open mind about everything you see, but also use common sense, much as you would visiting anywhere else.

Safety Concerns:

Egypt currently has a “Level 2: Exercise Increased Caution” travel advisory from the U.S. State Department and that – combined with headlines about political unrest following the Arab Spring protests and uprisings from 2011 to 2015, and COVID complications – might make you wonder if it’s safe to go there. But let’s put things in perspective here. Italy, France, Spain, the UK, Netherlands and Denmark all currently have these same Level 2 advisories, and they just happen to be some of the safest places in the world. So, these warnings should be taken with a grain of salt.

I’m not advocating that first time visitors should attempt a solo trip – it will take a lot more sense of adventure and frequent stays in the country to be even close to consideration – but it does matter that you select the right tour group. There are so many companies you can select from but first decide where you want to go, what you want to see and how much you want to spend. I highly recommend Gate1 located in Fort Washington, PA, an outstanding company offering content-rich, reasonably priced group tours with excellent tour guides.

Travel Insurance:

That being said, Egypt is one of those places where you probably should obtain travel insurance. Aside from serious medical emergencies, a good travel insurance policy will have your back in case of lost luggage, flight delays, trip cancellations and more. I have an annual policy from Allianz which covers all my yearly trips more than 50 miles away from home base, at a very reasonable cost.

Of course, if you have a credit card with good travel protections, you might not need to purchase additional coverage. Check to see if your card includes emergency medical evacuation coverage in addition to the above. I carry the Chase Sapphire Reserve card which provides up to $100,000 for medical evacuation.

A Cairo-only Trip:

People visiting Egypt will most likely fly into Cairo International Airport (CAI), or dock in Port Said/Alexandria, but at least half if not more of the good stuff isn’t actually located within the city limits. Yes, you can visit the Egyptian Museum, shop at the world-famous Khan el Khalili souk (more than 1,000 years old), and see some historic mosques, churches and synagogues, but the most impressive sites are elsewhere. From Midan Tahir (central downtown square) it will take you anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours (if you get stuck in Cairo’s notorious traffic) to reach the Pyramids, and they are not even the most impressive sites on the list. The most impressive tombs are in the Valley of the Kings in Upper Egypt, and there are incredible temples along the Nile in Luxor, (Karnak and Luxor), Edfu (don’t miss the temple dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek here) and Aswan. However, that doesn’t mean you should skip Cairo completely. Add the Cairo Citadel where Whirling Dervishes practice their ancient dance religion to your “to do” list; try some Egyptian cuisine like the national dish Koshary and other delicacies like stuffed pigeon. Don’t forget the Hanging Church in Coptic Cairo and imagine cruising through downtown Cairo after dark on a local restaurant barge for a few hours.

Exploring without a Guide:

Can you see these sights alone? Yes. Is it more of an in-depth experience with a guide? Absolutely. Guides in Cairo are friendly, reasonably priced and completely worth every Egyptian pound spent. They know the inside stories, shortcuts and historic sites that are not as well known, and they are local. One advantage in using a local guide, is that you will not be approached as often by vendors trying to sell you items on the street – a BIG plus. Spring Tours is the largest travel company in Egypt, and you will find a travel agency on almost every city block. Choose a tour guide that suites your needs and book your tours in person in advance. The cost is amazing lower than doing it from home.

Not Staying in Luxury Hotels:

Compared to many other parts of the globe, luxury hotels are a bargain in Egypt, especially if you go during the low season (peak time is December and January). Yes, going in summer or fall means it will be hot (average 110f and higher, especially in Upper Egypt), but it also means you can get a room at the 5-star Marriott Mena House in Giza for as low as $100 per night. Some rooms even have views of the Pyramids, as it is the closest hotel to the plateau.

Likewise, the Sofitel Winter Palace in Luxor currently shows rates as low as $95 a night, and who wouldn’t want to stay in a real palace, which was once the favorite home of the last Egyptian King – Farouk? Think marble walls and floors, crystal chandeliers, gold-plated door handles. One of my personal favorite hotels is the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan – where Agatha Christie penned part of “Death on the Nile”. Rooms start at around $217 a night and many rooms come with Nile River views – simply stunning.

Even in Cairo, luxury hotels are a steal. I always book into the Ramses Hilton downtown, just across the main street from the old Egyptian Museum. It’s walking distance to anywhere in the central part of the city, and you get to practice crossing the roads taking your life in your hands! Essentially Egypt is a great place to plan a luxury trip while still sticking to a budget.

Getting Caught Up in the Crowds:

In addition to getting great rates at hotels, you’re going to have an overall more enjoyable experience if you avoid the high season with its crush of tourist crowds. If you want to do a Nile Cruse – and you definitely should – this is especially important. During the high season, cruise boats let thousands of passengers off all at once, which leads to crowding in the temples. There are a couple of ways to get around this: go in the low season or, take a small private dahabiyah (a traditional wooden Egyptian boat), so the crew can time your shore excursions in order to avoid the cruise boats.

Egypt is still relatively quiet, but visitor numbers are rising every year. Thanks to lots of new hotels and cruise boats you can still experience a peaceful and intimate experience in most of the monuments. The new Great Museum is meant to attract a lot of new visitors, and word of mouth will continue to spread, creating a tourist boom over the next few years. Go now while you can still find ways to avoid crowds and receive not just the beauty and the fascinating history, but the awe-inspiring magic of each location.

Haggling Over Taxi Fares:

If you travel with a tour operator, you won’t have to concern yourself with this, but if you’re attempting to discover Cairo alone, it can be a bit of a nightmare. Many taxi drivers will try to get you to pay a higher fixed rate than what you would pay if the fare were metered, which it should be. If you do hail a taxi, insist the driver turn on the meter. Of, if you have a Wifi connection available or international data with your smartphone, use Uber or the Dubai-based ride-hailing app Careem – both are very cheap. When I first moved to Egypt, I always consulted friends and co-workers as to what a trip between two points should cost, and then offered the driver that amount in Egyptian pounds – it was that or use the meter, whichever he preferred – I almost always got the agreed-upon cost! Hotel employees will be able to give you estimates for taxi fares.

Real Time or Egyptian Time:

Again, if traveling with a tour group, this will generally not be an issue – however, it’s partly a cultural difference but with city traffic as bad as it always is, you can’t expect to stick to a tight schedule. Should you have an appointment with someone in Cairo, bring a book or magazine. You may be waiting an hour or more for them to show up.

Falling for Scams:

With the popularity of the Egyptian Museum, it is easy to fall for an all-too-common scam: friendly locals wait outside the entrance gates for unsuspecting tourists, then tell them the Museum is temporarily closed for one reason or another - usually that it’s closed for prayer and will reopen in about an hour. Next thing you know, you are somewhat forcefully ushered across the street to a trinket shop to pass this time and told you will get great deals because it is a government-run shop – wrong, it’s not! Of course, the Museum isn’t closed – the opening/closing hours are posted on a sign close to the main gates – the scammers are getting a cut of whatever their victims spend at the shop. Simply walk away from them, go to the booth and buy your tickets.

It's also not uncommon for taxi drivers to scam tourists as well. They might try to take you to their friends’ shops to receive a commission on whatever you buy. If a taxi driver or some other local does something that seems fishy, don’t be intimidated and insist they take you directly to your stated destination, or stop the car and get out immediately.

So Where Should You Go Outside of Cairo?

There is so much to see and do in Egypt, it’s hard to decide what you realistically can accomplish during your time there. Don’t rush around like a headless chicken trying to fit everything in – you can always return time and again, and plan different destinations for future sojourns. Locations such as Siwa Oasis, Alexandria, Abu Simbel, Fayoum, Lake Nasser and towns on the Sinai Peninsula should be strong contenders for your “must visit” bucket list.

One time frame to keep in mind when planning your vacation is Ramadan – scheduled for March 22 through April 20, 2023. This is the annual religious festival observed by Muslims worldwide as a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community. It is one of the five Pillars of Islam and lasts 29 to 30 days, from one sighting of the crescent moon to the next. Fasting from dawn to dusk is obligatory for all adult Muslims who are not acutely or chronically ill, traveling, elderly, breastfeeding, or diabetic. As a result of this, work schedules are severely restricted which impacts hotel and other tour services. Give serious thought before booking during this time frame in any Islamic country, as feasting and partying go on most of the nighttime hours, with predictable results the next day.

For the very adventurous tourist, give public transportation a try. These are vehicles which would have been scrapped in any Western country years ago, but in the Middle East, they are standard operational buses. Riding on any of these will give you a taste of local life – you get to see how the “other half” lives and when the ride is only about 20 cents, it’s a travel bargain. It was the only way I got to and from work when I lived there. I always got a thrill when crossing the Nile from my apartment to my office, realizing that I was actually traversing one of the world’s greatest waterways. You will too!

Egypt - A Guide for First Time Visitors

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