Stonehenge, Bath and Exeter

---

Today we left London proper and headed off to the Salisbury Plains and the UNESCO site of Stonehenge. Our day began early: 6:15 am a wakeup call, bags out at 6:45 and departure at 7:45. We were up on time and pleased to see the weather was cloudy but dry, with a temperature forecast to be around 55. Another fabulous breakfast of meats, fruits and breads,washed down with coffee and freshly squeezed juices were enjoyed. Feeling well fortified we headed off to the bus for the 2 hour trip to Stonehenge.

Unfortunately, we got off to a bit of a late start as one of our traveler's bags got lost on the trip from one hotel to the next. Fortunately for all, they found it. But we lost 20 minutes of travel time. No worries, we are on vacation, right?

Leaving the hubbub of London, we headed for the motorway, we call it the highway, toward Salisbury. Along the way, we passed through the towns of Cheswick, Kensington, and others where the urban area became more suburban, with open fields for soccer and many row houses on quaint streets. This is a much-preferred area to live and a bit less expensive as well. The motorway was relatively free of traffic and we arrived on the plains in plenty of time for our tour.

First, a little history. Stonehenge is minimally 5000 years old. Exactly when and why it was built is speculative. Who built it and what they used it for is still open for debate. Suffice it to say the theories run the gambit from interesting to outlandish.

On the latter front, we have the stories of Giants, hauling the stones from great distances to build the site. Or we can credit Merlin, the magician from the court of King Arthur for moving the stones single-handedly to the site to commemorate the heroes of the round table. Unlikely truths but fanciful indeed.

More to the point, Stonehenge was built over many generations. A henge is basically a mound built up using white chalk in either a circle or a square. This was the first iteration of the site. Next may have come long log poles, planted upright in a circle or semicircular fashion. Outside the circle, a ditch was later constructed to mark the sight. The ditch was made using crude hand tools made from deer antler, whose remains were found by the hundreds throughout out the area. Next came the stones.

The smaller blue stones from Ireland arrived first. These first stones weighed up to 5 tons each and came from upwards of 200 miles away. How did they get here from such a distance by a culture that had not invented the wheel is an amazing task. It is believed the stones came across first by boat then were attached to wooden sleds that were pulled by manpower, no draft animals yet, over large wooden rollers. The task of moving these small stones was daunting indeed.

The third iteration of the site saw the addition of the Sarasen stones which came from quarries that were 50 plus miles away. These stones weighed up to 30 tons each. Again manpower was the sole source available to move the stones. These stones were placed in two configurations, upright and across the top as lintel stones.The current placement of the stones may be a rearrangement of a much earlier plan. We do not know the original configuration. Today we see that many of the stones are missing or were damaged by tourists. People carved their names into the stones, so now we are kept 50 yards away from the stones outside the ditch area, still, a magnificent sight to behold.

As far as uses of the site there are again many speculative ideas. The main belief was it was used by the Druids or the Pagans for marking the summer and winter solstices and for ceremonial purposes. Highly possible. There were roads and paths that led from many directions all leading to the site, allowing people from far and wide to venture forth.

Another idea of late was the use as a market or trade zone. Here they found remnants of market items, jewelry, pottery, and other cultural items. It would be easy to imagine the site filled with people trading goods, ideas, telling tales of success or failure in their crops and such.

In addition, this may have been a site for religious purposes. The stones may have been arranged to amplify sound so it would have been a perfect place from which to preach and worship.

Recent research shows that many people were buried at the site. Several bodies have been exhumed and studied. One, known as the Archer, was found with this bows and arrows, not all the arrows were his however as two arrowheads were found buried in his ribs indicating he may have met with a very untimely death.

More recent studies show that names are carved into the stones. When some of the stones are subjected to polarized light at a certain angle, one can actually make out hieroglyphs, names or other writings about the site. These marks are still under study.

My thoughts are more along the line of a market, with religious overtones. The main gate is aligned along with the solstices of summer and winter so a calendar marking these important dates was also a possibility. Just a note, the main gate is no longer properly aligned as the tilt of the earth has changed slightly over the last 5000 years.

Personally, the site is a wonder to behold. Cathy and I walked completely around the circle taking in the breathtaking view of the wonder that is Stonehenge. This is a once in a lifetime visit and I am very pleased to mark it off my bucket list, I think I you should see it for yourself and imagine your own concepts.

I know it will be a fond memory for me.

Next stop Bath, and the Roman ruins.

Bath has a very interesting founding legend. The story goes, there was once a prince by the name of Bladude who was a member of a royal family. Unfortunately, he came down with leprosy and was abandoned by his family and forced to leave his home and belongings behind. He departed with the clothes on his back and a family of pigs to keep him company.

His fate was to wonder about the country alone and abandoned with only the pigs for company. He traveled south and lived with the pigs, sleeping with them at night for warmth. One day the pigs came down with the dreaded disease and all were doomed.

The pigs and Bladude came upon a natural hot spring. The pigs jumped into the warm waters to bath. Leaving the bath, Bladude noticed they were no longer diseased but fully cured. Amazed he followed the pigs’ actions and he too was cured. Instead of returning home to his royal family he stayed and founded the city of Bath. Great story, no?

Years later, around 70 AD, the Romans came and built a huge bath and temple complex on the site. The temple was dedicated to Minerva and served the people for decades. After a time the baths were abandoned, the temple fell to ruins and eventually, it was built over and lost for more than 300 years. The new city of Bath was built over the old city. One day, construction of the sewer system uncovered the ruins and the tourist industry rejoiced!

The baths are amazing. The complex covers several acres and was well designed with all the features of the Roman bath. There were a changing area and area for massage. The water came from an underground warm spring and was divided into several pool areas. There was the hot pool, the cold pools, and the warm pools, each designed for different treatments. The baths became a social gathering place for all walks of life from the plebes to the royals; each was equal in the baths.

One note; however, was that in the beginning, the baths were co-ed. Since bathing attire had not been invented yet, all were also equally naked. It was not until the second century when it was decreed that women must be separated from the men and modesty became the rule.

Besides the waters, the area comprised a major temple complex dedicated to Minerva. This was a very popular religious icon up until the middle half of the second century when she fell out of favor for the more modern gods and her temple, as well as the baths, fell to ruin.

Cathy and I also visited the Bath Abbey located adjacent to the baths. The outside of the building was absolutely beautiful, with red stone works and high towers. The inside was undergoing significant renovations, especially the floor. Workers were pulling up the old underfloor heating system and replacing it with modern technology. Unfortunately, this also involved the disinterment of all of the bodies buried for centuries beneath the center floor. The bodies were being reburied in a common grave in another part of the church. Their tomb markings,however, were being replaced where they were. We spoke to the workers who described this as a most grisly task.

The city center of Bath was a shopper’s mecca. Shops selling a wide variety of goods from clothes to books, to foods and pastries of all kinds was had for the asking. Cathy and I walked up and down the street window shopping. We did, however, make a purchase in the pastry shop. I bought a huge cookie made from egg whites, sugar and strawberries which we shared. Needless to say it was delicious.

All too soon it was back to the bus and our 2 hour drive to Exeter where we will be lodged for the next 2 nights. A great day overall with Stonehenge and the Roman Baths experience.

Tonight we had our welcome dinner, a chance to meet and chat with fellow travelers. Cathy and I dined with folks from Canada and New Zealand. A very enjoyable time.

---