Walking in England - Around Croyde, Saturday 1998 August 1

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Today we were closer to populations. We started by walking through and around Croyde to the beach. I met some people from Wales who had visited Western and Central Canada.

The flowers were beautiful because it rained heavily this morning. We delayed starting by 45 minutes until it stopped – for the whole day, thank goodness.

After watching people playing in the surf (wearing wet suits), we moved on to a National Trust site, Baggy Point . This is where smugglers used to operate. The rocks are murderous, being slate that has risen vertically into the coast line. A lot of families and twenty-somethings were walking on the path.

The morning passed in walking along the coastline, on grassy paths, with a spectacular view of Woolacombe Bay on one side and wildflower-strewn, sheep-grazing fields on the other. The rises and falls were mild, until we plunged down to Putsborough Beach . Jane met us at the top with a picnic lunch of pasties, fruit and beer or cider. The van was our windbreak, and the sun shone gently. For the afternoon we continued walking to near Woolacombe. I think this is where they filmed Have His Carcass (by Dorothy Sayers on Masterpiece Theatre)… at least it looks like it.

We turned inland, up sheep pastures to a country lane. Behind the patchwork of fields in the afternoon sun, the views of the sea were endlessly beautiful.

We walked through Georgeham ’s narrow streets lined by little cottages with lovely gardens. Andrew said that the towns and villages compete in the “Britain in Bloom” contest. Barnstaple won the large village section last year and competed in the European contest.

After clambering up several muddy, glutinous, rocky paths, we ended at Andrew and Jane’s house for a traditional cream tea: scones, clotted cream, strawberry jam, and tea. The neighbours, who had visited Canada, joined us for the tea. (Andrew and Jane lived in Ottawa for eleven years.) We all enjoyed a neighbourly chat on the patio, and the sun shone for us.

View map of trip to date.

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Photos

Croyde cottage
Like out of a fairy tale!

Verdant path
So different than hiking in Alberta

Bindweed
Ok it's a weed, but still looks lovely

Croyde Bay
Popular beach in warmer weather

Rock fissures
Peculiar geology of Croyde Bay

View to the sea
Varied terrain in such a small place

Smugglers knew the rock formations well.
Baggy Point

Rough rocky coast
Baggy Point

Cave at Baggy Point
Excellent for hiding smuggled goods

Jolly picnic at Putsborough
Andrew, Jane, Judith, and Barbara

Woolacombe Beach
Wide views and a beautiful beach

Seaside farm
Fence good for leaning on

Stone fence covered in lichen
Nature will have her way.

Pitwell Manor, home of William de Tracey
One of the murderers of Thomas à Becket

Ancient stone circle
"circle of stones that are old"

Comments

[Ake Och Emma]

Dramatic coastline
Looks like you got to see some dramatic coastline on this hike. I can see that the area you hiked in is not far from Weston-super-Mare. I want to go there for one reason only - John Cleese had lived there. /Ake

[beentouring]

Dramatic coastline
Yes, the coastlines of Devon and Cornwall are dramatic. Plus, when I travelled in Newfoundland, I saw a matching coastline.

[Isabel Gibson]

A purposeful sheep, indeed
There is something very relaxing about being by the ocean; better, in my view, than a lake, although any body of water is better than none. The variability of the coastal "edge" - unscalable cliffs, truly dangerous rock jumbles, sandy beaches - is quite startling. (I think I missed the farmer's trick, but he looks friendly.)

[beentouring]

Relaxing
This walking tour was both relaxing and taxing. The scenes were natural and relaxing. The coastline is rugged, requiring a lot of leg muscles to be exercised.