Day One: Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle (23 km/14.5 miles)

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Hadrian's Wall Path is a 135 kilometres (84 miles) trail that follows the course of the stone wall that was built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who came to power in AD117. A frontier road had already been established, after failed attempts to conquer Scotland, and Hadrian decided to construct a wall from coast to coast, separating Scotland and Britannia. It would run from the River Tyne, east of Newcastle, to Solway Firth, west of Carlisle. Construction of the wall started in AD122 and it took around ten years to build. The wall was 15 feet high and around 8-10 feet deep.

I had arrived in Carlisle the evening before. Due to logistics, I had decided that it was easier to stay in Carlisle for two nights and take the bus out to the starting point of Bowness-on-Solway on Monday morning. I had a few reasons for this: the bus doesn't run to Bowness-on-Solway on Sundays, so I would have had to take a taxi/shared taxi service, the accommodation options there weren't great, and it would also save me a day of paying for the baggage transfer service.

I was up bright and early, not long after 5 am. My hostel included breakfast, which I didn't know when I booked it. I packed up my little backpack with my essentials for the day and headed to the bus station. I left early, which was a good idea with hindsight, as I couldn't find the bus station. I knew the general direction that it was in, but I wandered the streets for ages looking for it. I was running out of time. I finally found it a minute before the bus was due, I was convinced that I had missed the bus as there wasn't one in the bay. Feeling deflated I waited a couple of minutes, debating in my head to go back to the hostel and take the next bus that was due in a couple of hour's time. There was a woman waiting for a bus, so I asked her if the 93 (the bus I needed had been) she said it hadn't so I decided to wait a bit longer. By this point it was pouring down with rain and I was wondering if I was doing the right thing, embarking on this walk.

The bus turned up about ten minutes late. The fare to Bowness-on-Sloway was £5.60, I had forgotten how expensive public transport was in England. I was the only person on the bus. We drove out of the city and soon we were on small windy country roads. Due to the rain there were lots of big puddles that the bus ploughed through. I really hoped that I wouldn't be walking on these roads as I would get drenched if there were any vehicles going passed. The bus stopped just after seven am, another person got on, then the bus driver got off for a smoke. I was pretty sure that this wasn't Bowness-on-Solway, but went to double check with the driver just in case. He told me that we would get there just after half seven. We drove through some more small villages picking up the odd passenger. I saw the Kings Arms, the pub in Bowness-on-Solway, and knew that I had arrived at the start of the trail.

I got off the bus and saw a sign pointing me down to the Path Pavilion at the Banks. The Pavilion has a sign above it stating Wallsend is 84 miles away and that 'Good luck go with you'. There is a stamping box there and you can purchase a passport to stamp along the route and then get a certificate once you complete the route. I had completely forgotten to purchase one. I stood in the pavilion and looked out over the Sloway Firth. Due to the weather, it looked pretty bleak. It was very flat and I could make out the fields across the way. I exited the pavilion at the other side and walked through the village in the direction of Port Carlisle, which was about a mile away. From the village, I then walked along the road next to Bowness Marsh.

I entered the village of Port Carlisle. I passed some typical country village style houses. The road split into two and I took the path to the left that had a big sign saying walkers welcome, the bicycle part had been painted over. I soon came across Roger and his Solway Signpost. What a cool bloke! He had built the signpost and puts it out every morning at 8 o'clock and takes it down again every evening at 6 o'clock. It marks one mile to/from Bowness-on-Solway and the 83 miles to/from Wallsend. Roger puts the date and whether it is am or pm on the signpost. I spent a while chatting to him, he is very informative. The smell in his shed really reminded me of being little and my granddad's shed. I think the smell is varnish. Roger will put your home town and its distance on the signpost and take some photos for you. He asks for a donation of a quid, not a bad price at all.

I continued down the path. I came to some gates, the trail got a lot more rural here, and I met a very friendly dog called Vic. This was more what I had imagined the hiking to be like. However, it didn't last very long and soon I was back on the road. I passed by the entrance to a holiday park and then took a dirt track. I also successfully navigated my first field full of cows, which I had been dreading. I came to the small village of Glasson and passed the pub, 'The Highland Laddie'. As I was leaving the village, it began to rain again, quite heavily. I made my way through a few more fields which were very muddy. My boots were soaked through by this point, great! I came out by some kind of farmhouse and the only route that seemed sensible had a large piece of plastic wire obstructing the path. I presumed that it was just holding the gate open for the farm and wasn't intentionally blocking the way. I walked on uncertainly. I passed a farmer, who I presumed would have told me if I had been on the wrong path. Luckily, I came across a signpost that told me I was going in the right direction.

The next point of interest was the village of Drumburgh, I walked through part of this small village, maybe hamlet would be a better description. I had read in my guidebook that there was a castle there, but I think it was really just a large farmhouse, I didn't really understand what was written in my guidebook about it, but I think it was built using stones from Hadrian's Wall. There was a place offering refreshments just before the castle on the opposite side of the road. As the path lead out of the village, I was back walking near the River Eden. I was walking next to the Easton Marshes. I walked along the road for about four kilometres. The road wasn't too busy, with a few cars going past every now and then. There were also a lot of sheep on the grass. The further I got along the road the number of sheep decreased and the number of cows increased. Especially at the signpost for Boustead Hill, the cows were out in force. On the next stretch of road, I finally came across some other hikers, they were going in the opposite direction, their hike almost over. I then walked through Dykesfield to reach Burgh-by-Sands.

Burgh-by-Sands is roughly the halfway point. I had come 13 kilometres and had ten more to go. The village was very pretty and well maintained. Just next to the Greyhound Inn, there is a park, which has a statue of King Edward I. I stopped there to have a proper rest. Since the picnic benches were pretty dry, I sat there and refuelled, feeling pleased that I had made it that far. I continued on through the village. I passed a tea room, but since I had already eaten, didn't stop. At the other end, there is St. Michael's church, which was mainly built in the 13^th century. I took a walk around the church's grounds. At the back there is a tap, where you can fill up on drinking water if needed. I also popped my head into the church, but the cleaners were in, so I head back to the trail.

I lost the correct trail as I exited the village. You were meant to go through a kissing gate, into a field, instead of walking along the road as I did. Even I was walking along the road, I was thinking that it was quite dangerous, especially as the bin men's big lorry swung towards me. I realised my error when I saw the trail marker for the opposite direction leading through the field. I continued down the road and soon saw a trail marker taking me across a field away from the road. As I reached the end of the field, I didn't have a clue which direction I should go in as nothing was indicated by the gate. Luckily, two women were coming in the opposite direction (I had barely saw any hikers so far that day and some turned up when I needed them) and they pointed me in the right direction. I crossed more muddy fields and then came to a track/bridleway, which was also muddy and had quite a few puddles. This is following the route of the wall, but there are no remnants of it.

The next main place was the village of Beaumont. I took a look around the churchyard of the village church, St. Mary's Church. The information board in front of the church says that it is the only church which stands on the line of Hadrian's Wall. I tried to enter the church for a look around there, but the door was locked. The trail leading out of Beaumont is where I would first encounter a path closure and diversion. I had printed the relevant information off the internet, but the trail diversion was clearly marked. The original trail along the riverbed is closed due to land slipping. The alternative route took me downhill out of the village and I walked along a road to and through Kirkandrews-on-Eden. I walked along a lane next to a farm/house called The Croft and was reunited with the original trail, or so I thought. I walked along a muddy and overgrown track. It came to an end and I could either go right or left. With no sign to guide me, I had a quick look along the route to the left and decided that the one to the right looked more promising. I walked along the path for ages passing fields with cattle and horses until I reached the end and a locked gate, bugger! I headed back the other way and took the route to the left. I walked all around the perimeter of the field looking for a gate out, but there was none. I knew I was in general area of where I needed to be, but I had to walk back to the sign post. I realised my mistake as soon as I got back there, since I was coming from the diversion path, I had read the trail arrow wrongly, and had went straight instead of to the right, which would have been straight if I had taken the original route. Lesson learnt: pay close attention when rejoining the trail from a diversion.

I walked through the kissing gates, past a small pond and took the steps up the embankment. I came to a small bridge called Sourmilk Bridge, what a strange name, I wonder if there is a reason for it. I passed more fields and walked by the edge of a big farm, I followed a path and it lead me out into the village of Grinsdale. I walked through the village which was pretty cute, passing an honesty box, and then through a gate, which lead me back on to a grassy track through a meadow. I could tell that I was getting closer to the city as the trail passed under a busy road, possibly the motorway, before rejoining another meadow. I caught my first proper glimpse of the River Eden. There were some industrial looking buildings on my right. I was almost at Carlisle. The trail exited the field and there was another trail diversion due to previous flooding. I wandered along the countryside track before emerging in a housing estate. Since the trail can no longer the course of the river, you have to go through the town instead. I headed through the housing estate and reached the main road. The weather had definitely improved a lot. It was lovely and sunny and I was able to take off the jackets I had needed earlier. I headed left along the main road, recognising this route as the way the bus had taken me earlier that morning. This part of the walk was pretty boring as I was back in town. I followed the markers left, passing shops and pubs, and across some bridges. I was soon in front of Carlisle Castle, where I would end my journey for today.

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Photos

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