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Published: November 29th 2009
I said farewell to Germany, headed south to Switzerland. Well you already know the good time I had in Interlaken from my
hang gliding adventure. But I was left with an adrenalin rush and was itching for more.
Back at the hostel I celebrated my survival in the lobby bar while contemplating plans for my last full day in Interlaken. Going on a hike seemed like a good idea and so I asked Tomas, the bartender, if he could recommend something close by. Conveniently he pointed at the mountain just outside the window. He proceeded with directions to
“Walk down the road, head in the direction of (somewhere that started with an "H")...only an hour hike up to the top…when get there take the train back down, its better on the knees…no more than 2 hours tops.” In hindsight I should've written his directions down but my overconfidence shadowed my need to be thorough. I could conquer anything, right? Little would I know.
The next day I got up early to start my trek. Lightweight raincoat - CHECK. Hiking shoes - CHECK. Camera - CHECK. Food & water - CHECK. Off I went “down the road” as Tomas stated. Right
now would probably be a good time to mention this was the first hike I had ever gone on. That should be enough to tell you what I was in for. Anyway, I continued along the foothill until I came to a trail head and started my upward ascension. It didn’t matter that is was cloudy and gray with the chance for rain. I savored the sound of the birds chirping, the sight of the fallen leaves, and the touch of the crisp air against my skin as I picked up a broken tree branch along the way for leverage up the rugged trail of rocks and tree roots protruding above ground.
I took my time taking pictures anticipating what I imagined was a spectacular view at the top. All was fine until about a half hour had passed when I came to a split in the path. I did not recall Tomas mention such. I had two options: 1) Go straight in the direction of Habkern, or 2) up the hill in the direction of Harderklum. Now I was confused. Did Tomas say "Habkern" or "Harderklum." Regret set in for not having written the directions down, nor a
map for that matter. After much thought I opted with apprehension in the direction of Habkern.
It didn't take long for me to come to the conclusion that I was lost. Well in actuality, I really had no idea whether I was lost or not, but claiming myself to be justified my dislike of the path I was now on. The rugged trail was now a flat gravel road, the natural scenery had lost its luster, and the winding ascension uphill was replaced by a boring straight path. I turned around and back to the fork I went.
An hour was lost by the time I reached the fork. I immediately headed back up the mountain once again this times towards Harderklum. Something just felt right about this path and crossed by fingers it would take me to the top. If I was in fact on the right track, I estimated it would take me no more than an hour from there to the top according to Tomas's calculation. I climbed and climbed, and the higher I went, the steeper the incline. The sight of the road and sound of cars passing below had disappeared and the towering
trees now swallowed my meek existence on the mountain. I battled in my head whether or not to turn around still unsure of the direction I was headed but my stubborness just short of stupidity refused to give up. My persistence was not met without fear as poisonous thoughts ran through my head of being killed by an ax murderer, eaten alive by a wild animal, or lost and stuck with little food or water to survive. Making matters worse, fatigue & hunger had also set in.
The one thing I did find comfort in were the white, red, and white stripes painted on the trees and rocks I began to notice on the trail every so often. My day was all about assumptions. Just as I assumed I was lost earlier, as I assumed I was back on the right trail, I assumed these stripe markings were an indication I was heading in the right direction. They could have very well meant something else like, "you're going the wrong way dummy", or "that's what you get for not taking a map". Whatever the purpose they were my only ounce of hope I held onto.
After three long
hours the trail finally opened up at the top of the mountain with a glorious view of the Swiss Alps and of Interlaken nestled between two crystal blue lakes down below. I couldn't enjoy the view for too long as I was anxious to get back and it would be dark soon. All I had to do was find this train Tomas spoke of that would get me back down into town in less than a few minutes. There was no sight of this train on my way up so turning back around the way I came was out of the question. There was a sign nearby with three trail options this time on the opposite side of the mountain. One arrow pointed straight, another pointed up, and the last that pointed down. With no strength in me to climb up again, the down direction was my choice hands down. I trusted that this train would cross any path I took. Again, assumptions.
About 20 minutes passed when the sight of train tracks sloping alongside the mountain appeared in the distance. I was beyond excited. But my excitement quickly diminished as I approached closer realizing there was no platform
or train car in sight. I looked up and realized that there was only one pick-up point -- the top of the mountain. I cringed in disappointment but with no other choice than to continue to hike off the mountain I quickly accepted my defeat and moved along.
Just past the train tracks the trail began to incline. Where was this trail taking me now?! I had no ounce of will left in me to expend any more energy than I was willing to give. Take away the hunger, fatigue, and anxiousness that overwhelmed me I would not have questioned the change in terrain. But not able to think rationally and completely desperate to be back on ground level, I was a second away from bursting into tears and falling on the ground like a toddler having a terrible tantrum. Fortunately, I was spared the self-embarrassment as two hikers approached who I quickly inquired with on the direction I was going. Fortunately they spoke English and confirmed I was on the correct path towards Interlaken. With much relief, I moved along.
It would take me another 2 hours before finally reaching the bottom. What was supposed to be
a 2 hour hike turned out to be an exhausting 5 hour physical & mental obstacle course. Though my feet, calves and thighs felt like jello, my face and fingers numb, and my body famished and thirsty, there was no sweeter feeling than to touch flat paved ground.
O.K. So it was a hard lesson learned...never go on a hike unless you know exactly where you're going, have a map, and perhaps a hiking companion would be helpful too. But all-in-all as painful as it was, I would not take that day away for anything.
For more Hiking in Interlaken Pictures ---> Click Here
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NickTravelling
Nick Evans
I came across you blog on Interlaken and had to sympathise with your hike. I got a bit lost when I went up the same mountain last year, but eventually found the hotel/cafe at the top. And, I managed to have an icecream then catch the train back down to town. But I like the way you described the hike... Switzerland was my favourite country because of the scenery.