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Published: September 9th 2009
With the north of Spain and Portugal conquered, it was time to start the second leg of the GAP Adventures Tour. In Lisbon for one more day, Wendy, Cheryl, Melanie, and I set out to the Castelo de São Jorge and the Cathedral. Of course, with only a few more days left in Portugal, we had to experience as many custard tarts as possible, so we stopped at a little restaurant and enjoyed a tart and Fanta - the snack of champions. Heading back to the hotel, we met Rheya who would be joining Wendy and I on the next part of the tour. That night, we were introduced to the rest of the group who had arrived from around the world - Canada, South Africa, and America. Back to King Chicken for dinner (I had a salad!), before a drink and bed. Next stop - Évora.
Well, what can I say about Évora - it’s small. After a few hours on the bus, we arrived in this sleepy little town and checked into our hotel for the night. Dave and I were surprised to find a little enclosed area within the bedroom that housed the sink and shower, the
toilet was down the hall… Nevertheless, we set out to explore the town. It’s amazing to find a place with so much history - walking to the 2nd Century Roman Temple, then the early 13th Century cathedral, and then the 17th Century chapel filled with/”decorated with” the bones of 5,000 monks is quite the cultural whirlwind. After dinner by the Bone Chapel, we were surprised to find the main square heaving with locals and tourists as a DJ spun and families enjoyed the evening. Of course, we’ll always remember Évora for introducing us to “mixed toast” (ham and cheese sandwich).
Our next destination took us back to the Atlantic and two nights in the resort town of Albufeira. Checking-into the hotel late in the day, we set out for dinner at a stunning restaurant overlooking the Ocean and were joined by a number of resident cats and a curious hedgehog. The next morning, the Family, Monique, Savannah, Dave, Rheya and I decided to spend the morning on the beach and then head out into the Atlantic to “chase” dolphins and see the amazing caves along the coast. We arrived at the marina around 2pm and found our boat -
a twelve-seat speedboat. Similar to canoeing in the north of Spain, the instructions were mostly in Spanish, there were no safety notices, they never took our names/passport numbers, and before we knew it we were “flying” over the Atlantic’s waves, and travelling so far, I thought we were going to see Boston at any moment. After around half an hour we were met by a dozen dolphins, swimming all around and under the boat, jumping out to show the amazing markings along their bodies. We then reached the caves, recessed into the cliffs along the shore. The captain shut of the engine and said “jump-in” - that’s it, I thought, he’s leaving us out in the Atlantic - no wonder they didn’t take any of our information!! Thank goodness he jumped in, so we soon followed and had a quick dip in the Atlantic before getting back aboard (phew) and sped back to the port, admiring the massive mansions perched atop the cliffs. Back to the beach for a few more hours, before heading to dinner and then a night out on the town. The old town was bustling with tourists, all being enticed to experience the endless number of
bars, clubs, and shops along the street. Sitting down at a corner bar for a “sparkling drink” we could hear three pounding sound systems all around us, all playing different songs. Of course, we were also enticed into a few clubs, but we had to get to bed at a “reasonable” hour for an early start the next day.
It was time to leave Portugal and head back to Spain. Arriving in Seville by bus, we were greeted by forty degree temperatures at 6pm! Again, our hotel was located in a fantastic area, just steps from the third largest cathedral in the world/the largest Gothic cathedral. Ignacio took us on a tour of the city, showing us the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) where all of the fortunes discovered in the New World were stored, the University, and the Plaza de España (the site of the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition) before we had a dinner of traditional tapas followed by a trip to a hole-in-the-wall flamenco bar. Our first stop the next morning was the Cathedral. Overwhelming massive, the Cathedral’s interior is a Gothic experience with towering columns, opulent organs (installed later), and an ornately carved Capilla Mayor. Another
highlight of the interior was the monument to Christopher Columbus, whose tomb is carried by the figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain (Castile, León, Aragón, and Navarra). We then hiked up the thirty-four ramps winding up the Giralda (the Moorish bell tower) where centuries ago, horses trod up to ring the bells (Rheya - the horses really didn’t ring the bells…). The next stop was the Real Alcázar, one of the stunning royal palaces in Seville, begun in 1364. The audio-guide was a necessity to learn about the numerous monarchs and political events from the site’s history. The rooms were filled with Moorish influences in the ornate arches and plaster decorations. Dinner was on our own this night, so Preston, Rheya, Dave, Monique, and I found a tapas bar before heading back to the hotel and off to the flamenco show. Seated around a central stage, the four performers sang, danced, and strummed a story that truly defines the passion of the Spanish people.
The next morning we set off to Granada, one of the most visible cities where the convergence of Islamic and Christian art, architecture, and culture is seen. We were all in need of fruits
and vegetables at this part of the tour, so luckily Ignacio took us to an all-you-can-eat salad bar for lunch where we heaped our plates with anything green (except for the ice cream). After a walk around the city, Angela, Rheya, Dave, Monique, and I visited the Cathedral. As opposed to many of the other cathedrals we had seen throughout Spain and Portugal, this space was distinctly unique with towering white columns and an overall “lightness” to the atmosphere. The next stop was the Royal Chapel where the tombs and coffins of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella are found. In addition, the Chapel exhibited a number of paintings by well known Renaissance artists, such as Sandro Botticelli, Hans Memling, and Derek Bouts. It was a surprise to find Rodger van der Weyden’s “Deposition” on loan from the Prado in Madrid which I had to memorize ad nausea throughout my years in Art History. That evening, Ignacio took us uphill to find great views of Granada as well as tomorrow’s destination, the Alhambra. Before turning in for the night, Wendy, Angela, Dave, Monique, and I stopped at a hookah bar where we enjoyed some tea and traditional sweets.
After breakfast,
we took the bus up to “paradise on earth” or what we know today as the Alhambra. These buildings have seen the golden age of the 13th Century Islamic caliphs, pillaging by Napoleon’s army, and now 5,000 visitors everyday. It was here that Queen Isabella gave unofficial permission for Columbus to set-out for the New World. Each room is filled with ornate plaster decorations and even the ceilings are stylized. In addition, the Alhambra contains stunning gardens which today require sixty-five gardeners to maintain throughout the year. After lunch, we climbed aboard a bus and set off for a long journey out of the country’s interior and to the coast for a final beach destination. Arriving in Alicante on the Costa Blanca, we had a quick dinner before heading to a few of the local bars and clubs to experience the local culture.
Early the next morning, Dave, Monique and I set off to climb to the Castillo de Santa Bárbara which we thought would be a quick walk, but turned into a very hot climb straight up. Nevertheless, we were met with fantastic views over Alicante, cold waters and ice teas, and the understanding that there was a
free elevator to take us back down. Meeting Rheya, we walked over to the market, only to discover that it was filled with meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables - a literal feast for the eyes, but maybe not for the nose. We then met Savannah and Angela, found some seats with large umbrellas, and lay on the beach for the afternoon. Compared to San Sebastian, Oporto, and Albufeira, the water was definitely warmest here. That night we celebrated the tour with a traditional dinner of paella - black paella (mixed with squid ink), mixed paella (chicken and seafood) and straight seafood paella (lots of beasties in the rice). After a walk along the waterfront, we went for one more beer and a toast to a fantastic tour of Spain and Portugal.
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Harcus Hennigar
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Photos
Wonderful photos!