Heading for the hills

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Geo: 43.5531, -6.12948

We had a very unsettled spell over three days including a prolonged thunderstorm one night, but yesterday (Saturday) dawned sunny and brighter as forecasted so we picked upon a suggestion from a tourist office leaflet to go inland and explore highland villages. Like Scotland, many are now abandoned and in ruins, the scenery was stunning but still sustains the grazing of livestock, including horses.

Beyond the village of San Martin de Luina and about five miles inland from the coast, the road became single-track, quickly climbing to well over 2,000 feet. The panoramic view down towards the sea was spectacular and as we descended we never met another vehicle which was just as well as passing opportunities were few and far between and the drop perilous. This didn't deter a number of keen road-cyclists who we overtook on the way up. That's some level of fitness!

We were in need of our daily coffee fix so after meandering the remote countryside were pleased to find a roadside bar at the small hamlet of San Cosme where the owner brought out our milky coffees and delicious, moist fruit and walnut cake. This was followed by a sample of a savoury, Asturian speciality which resembled a square of savoury scone containing onion and bacon. Mmm!

Moving on, our circular route brought us back to San Martin de Luina where the closure of the main street to vehicles and bunting were signs of some event taking place, so we parked up to investigate. This turned out to be a festival with a number of stalls and attractions laid out in the small 'Plaza Mayor', where we purchased foodie souvenirs - spicy sausage and cheese - which may or may not make it back to the UK.

For more immediate consumption, we bought a sort of pasty of flaky pastry filled with cured ham, goats cheese and tomato, as well as chunks of bramble cheesecake and almond sponge (our evening meal was sorted). The stall holder had overheard our conversation and then spoke to us in perfect English, albeit in an unusual accent, before going on to explain that his family were originally from Scotland, but he spent time growing up in Venezuela, before moving to Spain where he is now a craft baker. Yet another interesting person to add to the list.

Today, our 83rd since leaving home, is forecast to be a hot one in the 30's, so we are staying put to catch up on chores and chill with a steak dinner and a bottle of red. No doubt the local beaches and Cudillero itself will be heaving with people so we are content to relax as we near the final stop in mainland Europe - the Picos de Europa.

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Photos

Highlands to the sea
High above Cudillero

Chainsaw sculptor
Festival at San Martin de Luina

A happy Italian family
This friendly bunch from Padova occupied the table next to us at lunchtime on Friday