Valencian experience

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Friday, 14th March - Mr T's birthday!
First thing he said today - "Cannot wait to open my cards!". Took wind from his sails when I handed him a bundle to open, as whilst home people had rushed out buying said cards for me to bring back. Had a lovely breakfast sitting in sun and I pegged his birthday cards on the washing line! Left site at 12 without a plan and Andy singing to "Destination unknown" - his favourite at moment. Headed north desperately trying to find a beach road. Unfortunately this was difficult as most of this undeveloped coast had no coastal road. Saw what looked to be a pretty looking town called Cullera where we parked up. Motto is never go on looks alone. Cullera was awful and we made a quick exit from here. Ended up driving inland amongst the artichoke fields where these were being harvested in their 1000s. Cheap too to buy but I have never cooked them and could not find a recipe.

On the map saw a large lake and guessed there would be parking around it so headed further north to L'Albufera. The freshwater lake was massive and surrounded by a network of paddy fields which produce a third of Spain's rice for all those lovely paella's.There are 250 species of birds to be found here but again it was difficult to park so headed off on road opposite, planning a walk back. Here at El Saler found sand dunes along a massive stretch of beach and were pleased to park up and brew a cuppa. Walked along the beach and found huge stretches of walkways and cycle paths. Walked for a mile or so and stopped at one of the few restaurants and booked table for later that evening. Funny way to celebrate Andy's birthday. Whilst the restaurant was jam-packed at 4, by 8 when we returned we were the only ones eating - 2 chefs, 2 waitresses and head waiter! We could have been uncomfortable but we were treated well and saw why when bill arrived... food allowance for week out of window! Food was good though. Wandered back along the sand in our best bibs and tuckers, and stayed night in the dunes along with the courting couples and night fishermen. Spring definitely in the air and found the usual symbol outside back of our van in the morning. Hope people did not think it was our rubbish?

Saturday, 15th March
Up early today as decided to drive into Valencia which was only 6 miles from sand dunes at El Saler. First time we have had a foggy mist which did not really lift all day. Parked van quite easily along one of the main roads and walked to the futuristic complex of the City of Arts, the buildings I wanted to see. Spent a few hours wandering around these five stunning buildings, four of which were designed by Valencia architect Santiago Calatrava. Words cannot really describe what we saw but hope the pictures attached will give you an impression of the architecture. One of the buildings contained an aquarium and I really fancied visiting here. Andy not so keen so we parted and he went to a Titanic exhibition. Strange that if our girls had been with us there would have been no question who went with who... Alexia loving fish and Lucy Titanic obsessed. I had wonderful time and saw hundreds of tropical fish, mediteranean fish, artic and antartic. The tropical ones reminded me of our trip to Indian ocean where we swam amongst lots of the fish seen here. Andy had great time too and enjoyed seeing the Titanic trip from the Spanish perspective. Weary and wanting a drink we called at the posh Spanish department store opposite, El Corte Inglese where we bought dinner for Sunday. Also had been looking for a new pair of shorts as my denim ones very very old. Almost ashamed I bought them over 15 years ago!! Was really surprised that the sizing system in Spain had been altered and had to buy a larger size than normal. Cannot understand the Spanish not advertising this big change to ladies clothes sizes?

How sad then to have our day spoiled. On our return we discovered someone had tried to enter the driver door of the van, badly damaging it and breaking the lock. Fortunately we had placed an additional lock over entrance door which was not tampered with. Andy was so mad as he can never get to grips why people want other peoples things. Trouble is when we park up we have all our wordly goods with us. I just felt relieved that we still had our possessions. If the break-in had been successful we would have lost the lot.

Decided to spend another night in the dunes so headed back to our spot on the beach. Spanish festivities already seem to have started as there are fireworks and firecrackers going off everywhere. The festivities for St Joseph's day on the 19th March, a public holiday, consist of the building of huge papier-mache monuments which are ceremonially set alight.

Before retiring for night enjoyed long walk along the beach when suddenly the wind had got up but was blowing warm.

Sunday, 16th March
Awoken at 7 by local fire service turntable ladder revving up outside! Had a lovely cooked breakfast and headed off at 11 to try and find the bird reserve visitor centre. Sadly it must be Spain's best kept secret and as we could not find it headed inland on the E901. A very different journey with hills and valleys made up of the most amazing red soil which looked stunning with the almond trees still in bloom. Found a little campsite at a place called Villargordo del Cabriel, in the middle of nowhere. The site had in the past been picturesque being built around a tiny hamlet of houses and church. However, now around the permieter of the site they are in the middle of building a new high speed train link, presumably from Valencia to Madrid, with EU money, of course!

Parked the van and enjoyed a lovely few hours in the sun and then a walk around the most amazing lake. The scenery here is spectacular, and with camp site fees only 14 euros a night, and unusually with no increase for the Easter holidays. Decided we might stay over the holiday period as rumours abound about every site being full and turning people away.

Monday, 17th March
Asked at desk about staying on but our pitch has been taken and we need to be off tomorrow. However, they found us another spot which we think we will accept. Got walking boots on and headed off on the footpath route around the lake. It was fantastic, but path did not go that far so after an hour we were having to walk back. Had some lunch and caught up on some of my knitting squares (so much for the "one a day") and then Andy suggested a walk into the nearby village. Well, next thing we are scrambling down mountains, jumping across river beds and pushing our way through gorse bushes and under trees. Stood an hour of this and as only wearing normal shoes decided to give up and return another day with correct gear. Have to say that the scenery was amongst the best we have seen. I cannot explain the geology of the area as sadly do not know enough about it, but the colours of the rock faces were naturally amazing and it was wonderful experience walking along the river bed surrounded by mountains of yellow, blue, turquoise, red, green and grey rock.

Tuesday, 18th March
Decided to drive into Utiel the nearest town to get some provisions as shops closed for next few days. Had been advised there was a supermarket here so we drove in.... you can guess the story gets worse. Andy's last famous words were "at least its a good sized road". Only minutes later we were faced with a barrier and no entry sign due to the giant satirical structures that had been erected ready to be set fire to tomorrow. There was a right-angled turn to the left with overhanging buildings, tiny road and huge kerb with miniscule pavement. I nearly died and said I would have to get the police to move the barrier to get us out. However, good old Mr T and his excellent driving skills and with the aid of the locals beckoning us forward and some guiding us back we managed the turn and drove out not really knowing if road would get worse. Luck was with us on this one and we found a back street to park van as we had spotted a market running along river bank. Thought I would have a look as those little shoes I bought at the last market seemed to be crying out for a little handbag! Instead another little pair of leather shoes caught my eye and were such a bargain.....

In the afternoon decided to head slightly south back to Requena which turned out to be a very old Spanish town full of history and interesting buildings. Parked van and spent few happy hours wandering around. What a mix of buildings, covering 27 centuries from its Iberian origins through the Imperial Roman age into the Arab era and up to the 21st Christian century. In 1966 parts of Requena were declared a National Historic monument. Sadly could not get into the 14th Century church. It looked as though a puff of wind would cause its collapse. Still standing and well used is a 10th Century tower of homage building which had been re-built bult by the Christians and used as a watchtower and subsequently as a prison. Today it is used as a museum for the grape harvest festival. Surprisingly the area is a massive wine region and everywhere you go there are wine museums, bodegas, wine artifacts and apparently this is the world's largest expanse of vineyards. I have to also add that they look stunning set into the red soil of this landscape. I would love to re-visit in Autumn as there are also fields and fields of the valuable saffron crocus blooms which bloom a wonderful mauve.

Stocked up well with the food ready for the long weekend and/or a seige.. even shops busy here today the first time ever..

We both felt anxious walking back to the van as the attempted break-in had made us nervous about leaving it. However, all well so headed back to Villargordo to our new pitch (as given our big pitch over to a Spanish van!) Cooked some lovely skate wings for tea and watched Michael Palin's Missionary DVD which a couple had left us this morning. English van parked up beside us. The most luxurious top-of-the-range Hymer. It was a joy to see (must do lottery on my return!). Sadly owner suffered from MCD (monotonous conversation disorder) and his wife deserved a medal. She said a lot of people called her Saint Sue, and I would not have disagreed this one-she was wife 4!

Wednesday, 19th March
Temperature really dropped last night and this morning at 8 it was still only 1 degree. The van felt very cold and it was with some reluctance crept out from under the covers. No real plans today as expecting big influx of Spanish onto the campsite. English couple on pitch next to us said they had no food for today and all shops closed. Really not sure about this one, with their big van and big fridge. Could not imagine not being able to produce a meal? Suckers we probably are, but we agreed we could not sit and eat our BBQ with peace of mind, so offered them a meal.

Load of youngsters arrived with tents today and we are surrounded... all seems in good spirits so far.....

Thursday, 20th March
Heart sunk this morning when the drive onto the site filled up with car after car full up with teenage boys and their tents and you have guessed it; 5 tents on pitch beside us, and behind and in front. Still determined to keep cool. Decided to put on walking gear to go to Villargorda village - the scenic route we had tried unsuccessfully before. Just as we were leaving another couple, Doreen and Ian, asked if they could join us. Ended up having a wonderful walk up mountain, down valley and along river bed. What a plus finding a bar open in Villargordo too!

Doreen and Ian had booked meal in restaurant that evening and asked us to join them. Decided it would give us few hours away from noise from tents. So we entered restaurant at 8.30 to find all 50 of these teenages in front of the giant TV. How were we to know Valencia were playing Barcelona - a big match here! The place was packed. Still we Brits are known for our perseverence(?) so we sat down and enjoyed a really good meal and then sat back with the youngsters and all cheered for Valencia in an exciting match where Valencia won 3-2. High spirits all round..... Culminating with a couple of the young lads knocking on our door armed with a bottle of drink and offering us a glass. We accepted a type of Bailey's drink with no words being understood between us, but all in good cheer.

Friday, 21st March
Of course we had a sleepless night. Sadly shouting went on until 2.30. Not sure how the families here coped with it all. Doreen and Ian had had enough so they rang around a few sites and found one to take them that night.We decided to stay on. Weather good and site in the most beautiful countryside. Found it hard to understand why the youngsters came to this one as there is nothing here for them, being miles from anywhere and they do not sit and drink in the bar. Maybe it is one of the few sites that takes single parties of youngsters. Still keeping my eye open for a nice one for Luc!!! (sorry Lucy - only joking, although did meet one lovely waiter and asked him if he was fixed up... ).

Good Friday - Had a bit of a lazy day as weather hot. Missed our hot cross buns altho expect we will be able to buy them in May on our return! Went for a walk late afternoon to find the Dam. Everywhere we walk around here is so dramatic. Saw a pair of eagles and a red squirrel. By six though the wind had got up and it turned really chilly.

Saturday, 22nd March
Had a bad night again with the noise and Andy felt he could not stand another night. Receptionist was really apologetic and I was concerned we would find anywhere to pitch Easter weekend Saturday. One of the young couples we had helped a bit came over before we left and were so pleased to present us with a knife which we accepted with thanks and gave them each a small easter egg.

Left camp about 11 and drove for a few hours inland towards Toledo. Weather had really changed and it was blowing a gale, hail, black storm clouds all around and tumbleweeds blowing across the roads. Bit scary really. Scenery here very different, with flat grassy plains and we witnessed the "rain in Spain falling mainly on the plain" Arrived in Toledo about 3 in pouring rain but there were plenty of pitches (probably as it was another 30 euro a night one), so parked up and cooked dinner. Unfortunately I was not feeling great as had had sore throat for a few days and it seemed to be turning into chesty cough. As a result dosed myself up and went to bed whilst Andy moved up into the hay loft!

Sunday, 23rd March
We both awoke freezing cold with temperature only 2 and not rising! I had started coughing and did not have much energy, so Andy set off alone to explore. Upset I did not feel like going with him as had thought it would be lovely to be in a big Spanish city on Easter Sunday. He reported back it was extremely busy with coachloads of tourists. It is a picturesque city and behind the old walls of the town is a very rich history. The present cathedral was built on the site of a 7th C church. Work began in 1226 and spanned 3 centuries until completion of the last vaults in 1493. The gothic tower of the cathedral dominates the skyline and there are works in every building by El Greco who died here in 1614. As well as El Greco's "The Denuding of Christ" painting in the Sacristy of the Cathedral are also works by Titian, Van Dyck and Goya. Mr Taylor did not visit these however, and I hope to feel more like a trip tomorrow.

Big on Spanish news is snow - thankfully north of here at present! The only traditional thing today was the cooking of turkey roast for tea (have not lost appetite!).

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Photos

El Saler
View from our wild camp on beach

Valencia Eye
Andy very proud of this photo

Valencian view
In contemplation and amazement

Valencia
Valencian architecture

Valencia
Valencia

Valencian festival
Children in costume for the occasion

Requena church
Standing by will of God!

Campsite at Villargordo de Cabriel
View of campsite

Villargordo de Cabriel
Ancient rock formations

Villargordo de Cabriel
Walk at Villargordo

Villargordo de Cabriel
Scenery in Villargordo

Toledo
View from campsite El Greco, of Toledo

Toledo
River Tajo - entrance on foot to Toledo