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Published: September 27th 2014
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Walked with Dana and Renee from Texas, USA, and Doug and Libby from Tasmania today. We started in the dark and walked along a path in a wooded area where tree roots protruded and crisscrossed our path. It soon became obvious headlamps were required to do this safely so we muddled in the dark to correct this problem. A lesson learnt for next time: prepare for every possibility.
We walked the few kilometres to the village of Burguete before stopping for breakfast and a coffee. We went to a very nice little bar and were lucky to be some of the first to arrive as it soon filled up and had a pile of backpacks parked outside.
Usually the level ground is relatively smooth to walk on, changing to loose rocks and rubble in rain washed inclines and declines. These tracks are often covered in raised shale seams so care is required. The descent into Zubiri was especially bad and was 3.3 kms in length. It tends to make a safe arrival in these villages all the more special.
Having outlined the challenges you face, the rewards are far greater. Lovely verdant countryside with cows grazing in fields
Ronscevalles Pilgrim Mass and Blessing
You wouldn't need to be religious to sense the atmosphere and importance of this ceremony. Very moving. that look like green velvet, natural waterfalls, squirrels running along riverbanks and the locals often wishing you a 'buen Camino ' make the difficulties fade and the time flies. The different smells along the Way compliment the whole experience.
Another interesting sight are the buzzards flying overhead. These huge birds must have a wingspan of 1.8 metres (6ft) at least and are seen mainly in open countryside, probably on the lookout for a small animal or something injured to prey on. I told Sue to look strong and keep walking or they may narrow their search and start circling .
We entered Zubiri over an ancient bridge and stopped for lunch. We had the Camino Salad, a very hearty meal, and a drink before heading off towards Larrasoane .
Renee, the unstoppable Texan lady in our party, clearly has a similar grasp of the Spanish language to my own. In an attempt to communicate her pleasure at seeing a handsome horse, she told the owner, " Bueno polo! ", a fine compliment indeed, if the horse had been a chicken. Other than Libby, most of our group can only say hello, goodbye, please, where is the toilet,
thank you and sorry. After that, horses become chickens. If you are reading, I'm sorry Renee, but it was too good not to use; very funny.
Speaking of horses, we saw a Spanish girl who was travelling to Santiago on horseback. We saw her 3 times over 2 days and she was just travelling at walking pace with her dog in his hi-viz vest as her companion.
At Larrasoane we stayed at the Pension El Camino, private accommodation set up for about 12 guests. After a rough day, when you had to walk with the little niggles and aches from the Pyrenees over more rocky paths, it was 5 star to us. Sheer luxury! After a visit to the local bar, we returned to have dinner which consisted of pork medallions in a tomato red pepper sauce and salad very similar to lunch. Wine and water is always available and the meal finished with a small drink of a liqueur nature that apparently was like rocket fuel. No one knew what it was but Dana called it 'I'm going to sleep now!'. Bread is a given at Spanish meals and is crisper and lighter than that which we
are used too.
We then recalled the days events, swapped stories about our lives and backgrounds, had a lot of laughs and went to bed, happy to be facing a relatively easy 16.5 kms to Pamplona tomorrow.
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
Great writing and pictures...
I can travel vicariously with you, which is much easier on the feet than actually walking the Way. Keep up the blogs.