Paris and beyond - week 4

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This is the fourth ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travel experiences.

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These collective ‘episodes’ (this being the fourth) describe our journey from our arrival in Paris, France (in the 2nd week of May) for a holiday. The fourth week witnesses our arrival in Logroño (northern Spain) where we enjoy a different aspect of Spanish culture. As noted in previous missives, our journey is largely unplanned - except that we have now decided to focus on the 'Basque' regions of France and Spain. As also noted before - we'll sort of go where the scenery and experiences seem worthwhile. This 'blog' continues the Spanish part of our journey. Eventually, we'll find our way back to Paris to depart back to Oz.



If you missed our earlier travelblog 'episodes' for this journey, here is the link to the beginning missive for the first.



We've attached a few pics that give you a flavour of our journey, and some 'flow over' past the dialogue. You may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them. As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

Thursday 11th June - to Logroño

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We departed Oiartzun (near San Sebastian) in rain heading for Logroño.



We'd pencilled in a few destinations to visit along the way, but wondered whether these would be appropriate in the rain.



The first 'on the trip' was Santuario de Loiola outside Azpeitia. The 'Sanctuary' or Basillica is the reputed birthplace of Saint Ignatious (of Loyola) who, with five others, established the Society of Jesus or Jesuits. One of the 'others' was Saint Francis Xavier, who spread the message in Asia; he estqblished churches at Malacca, Miri and Kagoshima (all of which we have visited).



Though it was a Thursday, we happened to attend at the same time a matins service was being held in the Basillica. Though in Basque language, Judy was able to 'track' with the service. Within the Basillica is the actual birthplace of St Ignatious, and the building has been retained by the Jesuits both a memorial and museum to his life. For Judy, this whole experience was especially moving.



The drive to the Basillica required us to take 'local' roads. And, while very pretty, it would have been more enjoyable in sunshine. Oh, well!!!. Though the rain stopped for our visit, it soon returned.



Spain has invested well in regional motorways. Most cities are linked - if not together, at least in radiation from Madrid. South of Logroño, the motorway forks - one to Logroño and on to Pamplona, the other to Vitoria-Gastiez and Bilbao/San Sebastian. This meant that the 'DIRECT' road between Vitoria-Gastiez and Logroño was minor; the alternative being a drive via the outskirts of Pamplona. We 'set' the satnav to Logroño and it took us via the minor road. In hindsight, it would probably have been quicker to stay with the motorway.



At least for the beginning part of this (2nd half of our) journey, the scenery was breathtaking. The road left the plain and headed for a mountain range. Again, a twisting, winding, hairpin laden road. At the top, the road went through a short tunnel. WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!!! Where we'd encountered increasingly heavy rain as we increased in height, as we departed the tunnel the rain came bucketing down. Though a temperate climate, this was sub-tropical stuff!!!



We kept asking ourselves that the while the song goes the rain in Spain stays mainly on the plain what happened today?



The 'issue' for us, we discovered, was not so much the rain, but that now the road traversed low grade grazing land. And, though the 'farms' were largely fenced by stone walls these had all-too-frequently had become dismantled. Essentially, the stony land looked like it would be covered in snow during winter. Through the blinding rain we could see small stocky horses, goats and cattle were grazing both behind the fences and along the road. For us, travel speed was out of the question - safety became paramount.



Eventually the rain eased and being behind schedule we made our way to Logroño.



As we have learnt to do, we place the city centre of the town/city in the satnav, and wait to the outskirts to place the targetted street into it. As we went about this task, we realised we hadn't written down some essential details. Out with the trusty netbook to recover the booking details. Oh, No!!!! we haven't downloaded the booking form.



We headed to the CBD to park and try and find wi-fi (we hadn't purchased a dongle). Spare parking spaces were non-existent so we opted for an underground car-park close to where the satnav showed the Tourist Info office to be (they always have wi-fi). Sadly, the office had moved from the satnav location (to the other end of the 'old town' within the CBD), and it was still raining. Judy suggested we go to a bar with a wi-fi label and 'do our thing' while having a drink. Sound advice.



We connected and discovered we'd made a big error. We were not booked into Logroño until Saturday and this was Thursday!!!!!!!!!!



We rang the apartment host to see if it was empty and whether we could arrange a change. The host said it was not booked for Thursday or Friday, but he couldn't meet us until he finished work at 7pm (some 3 hours away). Assured that we at least had a bed for the night, we relaxed (a bit).



We have been using airbnb with considerable success. We've been getting an apartment for less than the cost of an hotel room. While Airbnb was initially established for travellers to get a room in a person's house on a b'n'b basis, they have also used the same site for those offering self contained apartments. A downside is that most hosts want to 'vet' prospective guests. And, sometimes that takes time. Anyway, what had happened is that we'd gotten mixed up with confirmed and yet to be confirmed bookings such that we miscalculated our itinerary.



June 11th in Logroño is a celebration day. Back in 1521, the Logroño citizens repelled a French attack. June 11 is also St Barnibas day, so the 2 have been combined into a quasi religious / local culture festival of identity. So, even in the rain, there was a festive nature to the CBD.



The tourist office did not re-open till 5pm (siesta!!!) so we waited to get literature for the region. During this time, a bit of thunder led to the sky clearing. Logroño is the capital of the La Rioja 'Autonomous district', and so the tourist literature we had for the Basque and Navarre 'Autonomous Districts' did not here apply. Don't you love it when inititiatives (like tourism advice) end at the administrative borders!



The English literature 'hand out' was good, and one brochure was dedicated to only pintxo bars. We'd been led to believe pintxo bars were largely a Basque coastal phenomena. But, our experiences of Pamplona and Vitoria-Gastiez changed that. So, being peckish, we headed in the said direction.





WOW!!!



If tourists thought San Sebastian pintxo's was good, they ain't seen Logroño! In one little laneway there are over 100 bars each competing to be the best. As an example of the variety and competition, there were three bars within spitting distance each specialising in mushroom (only), each with a different cooking method and using their own special basting sauce. At 6pm we though the street was jumping. An hour later when had to go meet our host, the street was 'in full swing'. But, we returned about 9pm and found the street 'out of control'. To walk from one end to the other in the middle of the day would be 5 minutes. At 9, it was more than half an hour of gently squeezing into any available opening to move forward.



The apartment was modern, clean and within 10 minutes walk to the city centre. We had the option of rescheduling the 3 days forward or staying for 5. With the mood of the town, and us getting a bit tired of constantly moving every few days, the idea of a longer stay appealed.



Once unpacked and settled, we returned to the 'old city'. There, at 8:30pm was still a crowd. But, surprising to us was the range of ages. From toddlers to nanna's. We had trouble understanding how those under (say) about 8 were still active and uncomplaining. Many were engaged in puzzle solving with an adult. In the town square there were market type stalls, entertainers, and activities for kids. The latter brought joy to our hearts. Around the open areas were old style wooden puzzles, naughts and crosses, etc. These were enlarged versions of those we had when we grew up. There was a small hand operated merry-go-round for kids up to (say) 6; the fit young guy cranked the handle to send it round. The kids swing seats flew out (at about 45 degrees) with the kids therein squealing with joy. The more they squealed, the more he cranked. We had much fun looking at their faces of delight.



As noted, we returned to 'pintxo' lane thinking we might find something sweet. If there was anything sweet, we couldn't see into the bars so we eventually struggled our way out of the laneway and found our way 'home'.

Friday 12th June - Logroño

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We decided to 'do' Logroño - that is, spend the day in the city and focus on the attractions and points of interest. While Logroño is the nominal 'capital' of the La Riojo Autonomous region, it isn't a large city; comprising some 200,000 residents (140,000 in the city and 60,000 in the outskirting villages). Like so many cities of the north of Spain, the residential area is 'planned' and comprises multi-story apartment buildings. While we Australians aren't accustomed to this residential 'style', it certainly offers several lifestyle advantages. There is sufficient density that public transport is regular and frequent. Every corner seems to have food services and other social services such as health and schools are within walking distance. As a consequence, most families have only one car and that seems more often parked than used.



We can't speak Spanish so learning about things is hard. What we have learnt is that Logroño has a long history from before Roman times as a Celtic centre. The Romans built a bastille town - and since then the city has defended/succumbed to advances from France, Castille, Navarre and Basque, while also having to deal with Christianity and Islam. As a centre for trade, Logroño 'emerged' in the 10th century as King Sancho I directed the pilgrim route through the centre. This enabled significant cultural communications with larger Europe. But, the city also endured the greatest insult during the Inquisition as the Catholic Church and monarchy together sought to exert repression as power by pursuing (Basque) witches - of which many unfortunates were burned at the stake.



Located on the ever flowing Ebro River, the Logroño region has long been known for its outstanding red and white wines. Today, Logroño is both a pleasing and vibrant city in a verdant plain surrounded by abundant farms producing grain, fruits, wine and olives. This agricultural focus is evident both in the economy of the city, but also in the foods served and enjoyed. We learnt that on a per capita basis, Logroño residents enjoy the highest income in Spain. That said, the residential areas suggest the distribution of wealth sure ain't equitable!



We wandered around the city centre taking in the various sights. We particularly enjoyed the River Ebro environs, that due to periodic flood wash, is a large parklands. By early afternoon we needed sustanance so we did as the locals do - had lunch (for us small) and some wine. As the sky appeared threratening, we decided to (again) do what the locals do and go for a siesta at our apartment. Locals may sleep, but we had washing and chores to undertake!!!



Reflecting on the day prior, we thought we'd go pintxo 'shop' at about 6pm. But, when we returned to the old city, the streets were deserted. We perused the opening times on the windows and found that 8pm seemed normal. Gee, what to do with a hungry tum? Make it suffer appeared the answer. We went looking at some of the (nearby) icons we'd earlier been unable to enter (due to siesta) and filled our heads with knowledge.



A threatening squall shower about 7:30 had us scurrying towards 'pintxo central' in hope. Fortunately, a very Basque bar was open. In we stepped just as the drenching began. 2 glasses of wine, some sardines, olives, salted BBQ'd pork belly and baguette had us licking our lips (and fingers). When the rain stopped, we continued the 'pintxo' bar hopping. We had the most exquisite fried mushrooms at one bar (with a glass of wine), magnificent soused octopus at another(and, more wine), poached cod and rotisseried sirloin skewers at another (washed down with....) and on we went tasting the fine fares. We eventually rolled home with a full tum and quite pickled.

Saturday 13th June - Around Logroño

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With the weather overcast, and the prediction for scattered showers, we figured that a day touring the surrounding countryside may be preferable than hoofing it around the city environs in the (possible) wet.



We'd purchased a text prior to leaving Australia - Eyewitness Travel; Northern Spain - and have found it useful for identifying places of historical interest. Also, the tourist info offices seem to have odd opening times so we've been relying on the book rather than the info centres.



Being closest to Logroño, we headed for the village of Navarrete (some 10 km's away). Cited as a village where there are more houses with family emblems embellished on the exterior than elsewhere, we went for a wander along the narrow streets and lanes. The 'emblems' are huge - typically 1 metre wide by 1.5 high, and carved from sandstone. We couldn't determine why there are so many in such a small village. The emblems elsewhere typified dwellings occupied by wealthy families. But, here, so many? Maybe it had something to do with the fact that the village (town back then?) sat on the border between Navarra and Castille and everyone enjoyed prosperity. Or maybe it became a fashion thing where every household 'had' to have one. Who knows!!!



We entered the 16th century Iglesia de la Asunción (Church of the Assumption) and were 'blown away'. Outside it is a typically (very) tall village church, a bit ornate in facade, but just a typical village church. Inside was something else. As we entered it was dark (as windows were then not a feature). After entering from a bright outside through the darkness we could make out a splendid apse. As we accustomed our eyes to the dimness, our ears became filled with the most graceful Gregorian chant music we'd heard for some time. After quietly wandering around the various parts of the small church, Bruce found the 'light box' and duly placed 50 cents in the slot to turn on the lights. The alter and apse were suddenly illuminated, revealing the prolific extent of the gilded Baroque rerodo's. The light bounced off the gilt to 'awaken' the middle of the church. Put simply, it WAS a stunning experience. Even after the light went off, Judy spent time being still inside. She found the interior of the church made her extremely emotional and felt she had to sit and meditate on the experience.



We headed a little further west (another 10 km's) to the village of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We'd arrived at the town after passing through a decent squall (rainstorm). In the drying atmosphere, we wandered the town to view the various historic icons. We'd read the cathedral was begun in the 12th century and progressively altered over time. Apparently, St Dominic's remains are buried there. But, the fascinating aspect for us was the live chooks held inside. The story goes that St Dominic 'resurrected' an unjustly hanged German pilgrim, and later when the pilgrim's parents came to reunite, they went to the judge and through an interpreter asked that his alleged crime be forgiven. When told the pilgrim was still alive the judge is reputed to have said "Nonsense, he is no more alive than the roast chicken on my dinner plate" - wherapon the chicken stood up and crowed! And, ever since a male and female chicken has been kept in a cage in the church.



Along the way around the village we had a typical rural lunch; a sort of pork mince and vege casserole - quite nice. A wedding party had emerged from the church shortly after we finished our lunch. The crown milled in the square around the bridle car, loaded with flowers and wrapped in gladwrap (due to the rain). Just as they removed the last of the wrap, the thunderous noise of jumping jack firecrackers filled the square. We've since discovered the firecrackers are a norm at weddings in these parts.



We departed and headed back towards Logroño. When travelling 'out' from Logroño we could see that Logroño is 'wedged' between two mountain ranges with an undulating plain as the valley floor. But, over time, the various rivers have cut through the plain such that there are many pinnacle hills (or pimples) arising from the valley 'floor'. Atop every 'pimple' is at least a church, but generally a church with a small village clinging around the sides.



While our planned destination from Santo Domingo de la Calzada was Nájera, we diverted along the way to Briones; a fortified village on a very high hill emerging from the undulating countryside. As noted, it's not the only one in the region, but we decided to visit this one as the name is close to Briony!



Cling to the sides the village did. And, the twisty lanes were just one car width! With buildings clinging to the sides of the hill, it is very hard to ascertain whether the lanes would be passable, and if not, reversing would be a pain. We got to near the top and found a car park . The 'top' was quite rustic, with a14th century 'cathedral' that appeared not to have been updated very much since. We saw what we thought was snow, only to see on more inspection it was accumulated hail. That squall had delivered pea sized hail. We then noticed the trees on the east side of the hill had suffered much leaf damage. We bid our farewell, and meandered onwards through the grape vine clad countryside.



About 7 km from Logroño is Nájera. Upon entering, it appeared more an industrial town than an ancient city. Historically, we learnt, the village (town?) of Nájera played a central role from pre-Roman times. Perhaps because the swift Najerra River travels close to a very high cliff, the site could be readily defended. Anyway, unlike other towns and villages in the region we'd visited, the present city appears grotty and unkempt. The old centre is on the (narrow) opposite bank of the clear flowing Najerra River. Of interest is the Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real. We were to be charged a few Euro to visit the cloisters, but the church itself was free. We found it difficult to fathom as the church holds the treasured items. Anyway, we declined the invitation to spend money to look at Spanish religious relics in the cloisters of a working monastry. As we were told we couldn't get into the church for a while as there was a wedding in progress, we went to the nearby square and sat in the late afternoon sun with a glass of wine.



The wedding finished at about 7pm, and we were allowed entry. The bride, groom and family were still around the alter getting photo's taken. With all the lights on, and massive flower arrangements in place, the church took on a grand stature. Whereas our visits to 'ancient' church's tended to be in the absence of lights and people, offering a cold atmosphere, this church at this time offered a warm hospitality.



In a sense, our visits to several churches this day offered a perception. On one hand the church is but a building. In that sense, our visitations to various churches has focussed on the history, the architecture and the physical changes over time. On the other, the church is a community - a coming together of people with a common cultural purpose. Of course, this latter aspect can be done anywhere. That said, it's the combining of the cultural with the physical that enables the real 'presence' of the building to shine. So, when we enter a church as an historical site, we must imagine what it would be like when filled with parishioners. This day, Iglesia Santa de Maria la Real allowed us not to imagine, but experience.



The apartment we are staying in is on the first floor. Below are a series of shops. Most supply food, and within four shopfronts on either side of the apartment doorway are shops selling ready made meals. The 'culture' in the region, we learned, is for casserole style meals. But, not just for the meats. Even the vege's were of that style. For example, a dish of peas were cooked with egg and bacon. The globe artichoke with ham and green beans. We decided that the 9pm dinner time was not for us, so we partook of the offerings.

Sunday 14th

June - Around Logroño

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We'd enjoyed meandering around Logroño the previous day, and as the weather prediction was for a clearer day, we decided to head for the hills. As noted, Logroño is set on the River Ebro in an undulating plain between two sets of mountain ranges. We decided we'd go investigate the southern range as parts of it are also a regional park.



We returned west along the motorway to near Nájera before heading south into the region known as Sierra de la Damanda. Our first stop was at a village called Anjuiano. There, the River Najerra cut through a chasm in a high escarpment. What took our attention was a bridge crossing the chasm with a few more dwellings on the other side. The bridge was just wide enough to take a car. At first we were reluctant to cross, but a couple of cars careered across so we followed. The village on 'the other side' wasn't anything special. But, the locals had landscaped an area on a tributary to the Najerra River. The sun being warm had us walking for quite a while along the banks before returning to the car and heading further up into the hills.



Further up the road we saw a turn off to Monasterio de Valvanera. We ventured up to find a still active Benedictine monastry. They not only do their 'work', but they make a pretty powerful liquer. Given that we were driving, we just had a great baguette sandwich and a beer. 😞



Rather than go to the top of the range (and beyond, southwards), we decided to go over the top of an adjacent spur eastwards. This took us to some pretty amazing countryside, with sheer cliffs and rocky outcrops making the road quite twisty. With goats grazing the hillslopes, only grass prevailed. But, at the top, a fence demarked the grazing land with pine forest. Though the visual was less spectacular, we did appreciate the green. We eventually descended down to the village of Ortigosa de Cameros. Again, a village stradling a stream cut into a deep chasm.



As the weather was closing in, we made our way back to Logroño to pick up some dinner and wine. We've been really enjoying the La Rioja red wines.

Monday 15th June - Around Logroño - some more

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The previous day we'd returned back to Logroño via the valley of the River Iregua. The valley ridges were of a quite different rock material and scenically quite different. We decided to go visit today as the weather was reputed to be better than the day before.



In the light of a sunny day, the sheer hillsides were even more astounding than we'd seen the evening prior. We stopped at the village of Viguera. Though nothing special today - mostly being a workers town servicing nearby cement works - the strategic position at the gorge once made it a bastille and the centre of the Kingdom of Viguera. We pottered around the area for a while before heading further up the valley to Torrecilla en Cameros - another gorge community. It seems the village now appeals more to regional tourists than locals seeking farming income. We found a bar open, and had a baguette sandwich and beer in the afternoon sun.



We decided to go visit Viana on the other side of Logroño. Like so many villages in the region, Viana is built on a hill and so was easily defendable. In the middle ages Viana was an important strategic town for Navarrans to defend incursions from Castile. It is also an important pilgrim town. We learnt that during the 16th and 18th centuries wealthy merchants built grand palaces. Many facades still survive. At the highest point facing south was Iglesia de San Pedro, with walls made defensively (ie. bloody thick). But, in the 19th century, the church was attacked during the First Carlist War and ruined. Only parts remain. This destruction of monuments via the successive monarchy power plays known as the Carlist Wars - there were 3 - was widespread in the north of Spain. It would appear the monarchists had little respect for the icons of Spanish history. But, what unnerved us was that when Castillians took Navarrean castles (or vice verca, they didn't do much destruction. They appeared to reward themselves with these prizes. On the flipside, the Carlist wars appear to us to be about cultural destruction - in all its forms!





We pondered about visiting more historic places, but figured a return to the apartment, a nice wine and a good meal might be better. And, it was!

Tuesday 15th June - To Lleida

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Today we departed Logroño. We'd mulled over our various options. Return to France directly, and continue our holiday in the (French) Basque part of the Pyrenees. Continue eastwards towards Barcelona, and make a dash back to Bordeaux to return the car and head home, or split the difference and head to an eastern part of the French Pyrenees. We decided to do the latter. But, as the journey eastwards would be too many hours in the car, we booked an hotel room at Lleida. So, that was the destination today.



Before driving to Lleida, we decided to visit the ancient village of Olite. We'd heard that the palace was still intact, as was the church. We had to head towards Pamplona before heading east on a local road. This 'local road' was far better than anything we'd experience in Australia. We got to thinking that of the roads and motorways we'd travelled in Spain, perhaps the reason Spain was considered a basket-case in the GFC was because it had borrowed heavily to build an incredibly good road network. We wished John Howard's administration had spent the mining revenue on good roads rather than pork-barrelling the electorate with middle class welfare to retain office.



For us, the castle at Olite was really interesting. Known as Palacio Real de Olite (or 'Palace of the Navarre Kings at Olite') it fell into ruin following warring destruction in the 19th century. But, in the early 20th century, sufficient ruins remained for it to be declared a national monument and funds were found to have it rebuilt to represent what it had been in an earlier time.



The castle (palace?) is a bit of a maze. Bits were added on over the years (centuries?) with no real plan as to coordinate spaces or how workers would effect their tasks. Visitors then would have had a hard time negiotiating their way through the various corridors, stairs, rooms, et cetera - and would also so do today without some form of guidance. We were aided by a plan and a detailed path to follow. Though the furnishings were absent - descriptions in places allowed us to imagine. We figured it would then have been very easy to keep cool in summer but hard to keep warm in winter; despite there being numerous large fireplaces.



The day had become cool, and so after the lengthy forage of the castle, we sought comfort in a pub with a baguette sandwich and coffee. We've come to appreciate the Spanish coffee. We learnt early on to ask for a 'cafe Americaan'. Once delivered, we'd then ask for fresh milk. Though a different blend than we'd get in Australia, it is served equally strong (to that of Sydney or Melbourne - Brisbane coffee shops being cheapskates seek extra money to deliver strong coffee).



Ever onward, we headed for the nearby village of Ujué as it was reputed to be a very good example of a bastille (walled) town. Sadly, our information was this time incorrect. Yes, it is built on a hill, but a walled town? No longer! Even the church has been rebuilt over recent decades. Oh, well..... That said, the church has wonderful views over the surrounding countryside. One can even see Olite in the distance. We read the nobles at Olite relied on messages from Ujué regarding advancing troops. We could see why.



We'd also read that a nearby landscape called the Bardenas Reales in Aragon province was a desert that is particularly scenic. We found from the road map that only one road goes through so deviated to have a peek. While a regional park, the land we saw wasn't as described. Of note is that though a regional park, farmers were using the land for grain crops!



With time escaping us, we hit the motorway for Lleida. It was some 200km from where we connected to the motorway. Though the motorway travels 'down' the River Ebro valley, the scenery along that 200 km changes markedly. Where we'd begun on open, undulating plains east of Logroño, the scenery changed to desert like (perhaps reflecting the Bardenas Reales reality). But, perhaps the landscape reflected the increasingly dry environment. While at Logroño, we watched the weather via the pc. We noted that the further east one 'looked', the drier and warmer the weather predictions were. And, when we left Logroño, the cloud loomed large, but as we travelled further east, the sky slowly cleared.



Eventually we got to Zaragoza; we were now in Catalonia. Though a large city, we decided to by-pass as to 'see' it really warranted more than an afternoon (of which now we didn't have). So, we skirted the city for Lleida. When we say the scenery changed, we really mean the landscape was largely flat but the agriculture went from grain production to dryland grazing, to nothing to irrigated cropping and orchards.



Perhaps the most 'interesting' for us were the number of wind turbines. With a son in that 'industry', we had more than a passing interest. Everywhere we looked, a ridgeline had wind turbines. Not just a few, but dozens. Typically, the 'group' would be between 50 and 100 or so turbines. From Logroño, we'd calculated there must have been over 1000 turbines by the time we reached Lleida. And, there were also large numbers of solar voltaic panels. What does Spain know that Tony Abbott doesn't?



We arrived at Lleida not knowing what to expect. For some distance before Lleida, we noted the irrigated fruit tree orchards. As we entered the environs, we could see a 'fortress' church atop the hill. "Gee, what's new!!!" we thought. But, as it was nearing 7pm, we became focussed on arriving, unpacking, and eating!



We hadn't researched Lleida, so just did a quick flit through TripAdvisor to see well rated eateries. The top eatery was a pintxo & restaurant. We headed there, and after Logroño were somewhat disappointed. The pintxo's were good, but not outstanding; as the TripAdvisor contributors had claimed. After a couple of 'nice' pintxo's and red wine we took our leave and went in search. Up a back alley we found a bar that specialised in BBQ'd meat. It was tiny, but the wine was good and the kebabs , mushrooms and chilli's sensational.

Wednesday 16th June - In Lleida and to Andorra

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In bright daylight, Lleida isn't an industrial city. We learnt it serviced the surrounding agriculture - mainly fruit. The fortress church on a 'pimple' dominated the city; not only the skyline, but the structure of the 'old city'. As we've come to discover, the 'old city' is the cultural centre. Business offices are typically located adjacent to the 'old city'. And, Lleida was no different. The 'old city' housed retail, with fashion shops dominating. In the short section we wandered, there were over 20 womens shoe shops. Judy claimed that many had shoes with her name on them. Bruce suggested that if that were the situation, how come they didn't also have an airline baggage check!



We made our way up the hill to the fortress, and church. Where the 'old city' comprised tight lanes, and overhanging building, the fortress area was a massive carpark. We wandered around and 'discovered' the entry. There, a fee was required to enter buildings that had been refurbished in the 20th century following massive destruction in another of the Spanish civil wars. We declined and made our way back to the car to depart Lleila.



Where the Spanish government had built motorways to carpet the landscape, the route to the Principality of Andorra obviously wasn't on any agenda. That's not to say the road is bad, rather, that it was a local road (which was quite OK).



As we left Lleida, we could see that we were to 'somehow' travel up over a steep mountainous range - the Pyrenees! After a while of travelling across typical Catalean countryside of sparse vegetation on undulating hills, the road entered the escarpent that is the edge of the Pyrenees. Massively mountainous topography and long road tunnels were the order.



After one quite long tunnel, we entered daylight to find a frontier border. Ahhh, Andorra!!!. Fortunately we were waved through. We didn't relish the thought of stopping, finding the bags with our passports....



Within a very short time we were in Andorra la Vella, the capital. Is there some money here? Our little VW Polo special looked decidedly out of place amongst the Ferrari's, Porsche's, Llambhorgini's, etc. But, given the tight roadspaces, the 60kph maximum state speed limit, who can exercise the difference!!!



We were gobsmacked at the capital. There is a massively fast flowing creek running right through the centre. There is hardly any flat land, and it's all built upon. To accommodate roads, the engineers have constructed road bridges along the riverway or more tunnels through mountains. So tight is the available land, there is no street parking. The road lanes are tight and parking is a commercial transaction. That's not to say people don't park - they do, they just stop, put on the hazard lights and do their thing. And, drivers following have to negotiate around!!! We assume that's the Spanish influence. Maybe, then, it would be better to say there is no long term street parking! In the accompanying photo - Spaghetti - there are two sets of tunnels - a pair to the left, and another in the centre behind the roadway (white signs). What isn't visible is that there is another road under the suspended pavements (to the right). Phew!!!








We learnt that the Principality of Andorra is actually a co-principality with the president of France and the Bishop of Catalonia (as co-princes). This makes the president of France an elected monarch!!!! Long dependant on France and Spain, Andorra didn't have a parliamentary constitution till 1993 - and this instituted largely at the behest of the EU. Andorra uses UE currency (it used Spainish currency until Spain entered the EU), and until recently raised no taxes on business. Accordingly, Andorra was/is a tax haven for many wealthy Europeans. At the direction of the EU, Andorra is slowly acquescing to taxation.



We proceeded to our accommodation in Arans - up the Tristania valley. After getting sorted, we headed back to Andorra la Vella for supplies. We read that so focussed on tourism are the residents of the principality, it is said that every household owns at least one accommodation apartment. And, given that most citizens are either farmers, accommodation providors or services workers, there appears no need to distribute supermarkets around the principality.



We did our shopping, and noted the large section given over to 'Duty Free' goods. It appears that French and Spanish visitors buy up big on less expensive alcohol and cigarettes.



We returned to our accommodation to enjoy the evening in 'clean mountain' air.



Where the northern 'centre' of Spain (Navarre, La Rioja and Basque) are agricultural regions with good rainfall, they weren't 'green'. Rather, and like Australia, the land is given over to agriculture and the remaining (non used) land is either kept in check with weedicides or covered with concrete/bitument. Andorra is different. Everywhere is currently) green. Even in the city, it is either roadway and building meeting green grass. Away from the city, the grass is left to grow longer - in part because the grass is a crop for winter feed. We suppose that having spent several months snowbound, bright green grass is a welcome change. Overall, though, Andorra appears to adulate orderliness and maximises greenspace.

Thursday 17th June - Andorra

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Our accommodation is rustic. Not that that is a negative statement. Rather, that it was built many years ago out of local stone. We awoke to find the peace and quiet had enabled us to sleep in. Or, was that the mountain air - the village is at 2000m. Then again, it could have been the delicious food and beer and wine.....



Instead of rushing around look-seeing, we decided to take it slow. After a lazy brekky, we discussed whether we'd go for a walk along the nearby mountain stream, or head up the road to the ski field.



We decided the latter, and after about 10 minutes arrived at the ski centre. With no snow, we were able to drive further up the slopes till we could drive no more - snow barred our way.



Well, why not go for a walk here? we asked ourselves. So we did. We had to pick our way around the various snow drifts to find a route. In some respects we'd wished we had snow gear and a toboggan - we could have had so much fun. Even so, the crisp mountain air, the grassy knolls with abundant wildflowers and the scree paths enabled us to exercise.



Who would have thought we would have had snowball fights on this trip. Just a few weeks ago we were buying sandals!



We spied an Alpine Marmot, and spent time watching it go about it's 'business'.



We enjoyed our 'fun' and eventually returned to our apartment.



Tomorrow France.

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Photos

Logroño festival participants
Folk 'in tradition' moved through the streets, accompanied by drums, etc. This is but one of many different groups.

Logroño old meets (sort of) new
The bridge crosses the Ebro River. The stone part is 16th century, while the steel 'addition' is 19th.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Note the trees. This is common practice. We assume it's to provide shade. But, all too often the trees are too far apart for shade!

Nájera
Though late afternoon, the 'space' between the cliffs and river in which the old city is situated is here evident.

Anguiano
View from the stone bridge

Andorra de Valle
The capital of Andorra