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Published: June 21st 2014
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June 17 - Najera to Santa Domingo
We had a decent night sleep. Tanya is still not feeling great and decides to bus ahead. I am stubborn and want to walk - I did get marching orders from the nurse - actually he did not tell me not to walk which I took as an ok.
I decide I am going to walk the entire stage today alone. I need to prove to myself I can do it, do it alone and I need to show my feet who is the boss!
As my guide book says - this stage is 70% on wonderful wide country tracks passing through remote and gently undulating farmland with little shade and few water fonts - there is also a warning not to follow old way marks - I am scared.
We say our goodbyes and I am off. The walk starts out great but after the first 5.8km my feet are pissed off again. By the time I reach Ciruena de Decanso another 7.5 km later they are threatening to stay behind altogether - this is not an option as I must
meet Tanya in Santo Domingo. I make them a compromise and stop for 20 minutes, take off my boots, and buying a large freshly squeezed oj. After this 20 minute respite we carry on reluctantly - only about 8 km to go.
By the time I make the industrial outskirts of Santo Domingo I am struggling. The fumes I am inhaling on the 2 km industrial stretch are overwhelming - I can see the cathedral ( our meeting point ) and force myself on. It is another 2 km through the streets of the city - I rest on a street bench for about 5 minutes before completing the last stretch and finally seeing our Tanya.
She has booked us a nice hostel and I unpack, take a shower and put my aching feet up for a much deserved rest.
We head out for a pilgrims' dinner at the local bar and while there run into a Franchescan monk - at first I thought he was a Jesus impersonator until he guaranteed me he was a legit monk - this was his 6th time walking the Camino relying solely on the
kindness of strangers for room and board - he must be very good at the relying on part ( as are most religions ). We got a group photo after our meals and bid adieu.
We walked (gingerly) around the huge square and met pilgrims Peter and Jill and with their help figured out how to catch a bus to Burgos. I pre booked us a room in Burgos for 2 nights - this will be Tanya's departing point on the walk - I still need to decide what I will do - but for the next two days I will rest and then say goodbye to my Camino companion - not looking forward to that.
Piss off of the day - passing through a ghost town - Ciruena de Decanso is a small city of beautiful homes and apartment blocks almost completely empty as a result of the failing economy in Spain. It even has a golf course - I got my oj there and did not see a golfer on the course. What a waste.
Tip of the day - learn how to take selfies before you attempt a
walk like this alone. So much easier when there is two of us. I wasted about 5 minutes on the selfie with the km left marker post - almost fell in the little ditch taking it. That would be an embarrassing end to the walk.
Blessing of the day - finding Tanya at the cathedral as planned
Funny event of the day - how many of you have met a real Franchescan monk - have I used the word surreal yet. I want a robe and sandals like his - looks very comfortable.
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Sal & Al
non-member comment
Life's like a road...
God love ya Keith, keep on treking as long as you can, and you will decide what is best for you...everyone's journey is different. Nonetheless, so proud of you and love the pants off of ya!