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Published: August 2nd 2013
Here I sit in the kitchen of author Tracy Saunders with Tracy in her Little Fox House (A Casa Do Raposito) wondering how I ever got here. I am sorry for the lack of blogs the past few days. I have juch a full heart and no words to express. Talking with Tracy she questioned if blogging was a good thing on The Camino or not. Her feeling was a diary was bettter. I don't totally disagree with her. I don't know that you can really blog and share the real essence of the Camino nor do you want to influence the experience of another. Plus I totally understand there are things that happen that you just don't want to put out there and even somethings you can't even write. Putting it to words just doesn't do the experience justice.
I have put a lot of my heart and my experiences down in this blog to share with those who care to read it. Some I hesitated sharing for reasons mentioned above. I am sure some of you may think I have gone mad (well they are probably not reading this anymore). However I have wanted to share my experience with you hoping some may choose to do their own Camino (remember you don't have to come to Spain to do a pilgrimage) but more than anything this blog has been for me. To commit my experiences to word so I could remember and reflect. I have also written in a diary and am so glad I have done these things as The Camino seems to blur over time.
So as I said I sit here reflecting - this is an amazing place to reflect. I don't think I can describe this place or Tracy and do either justice. Not even my pictures on facebook really reflect what I see and feel here. Check Tracy out - www.pilgrimagetoheresy.com or Little Fox House on Facebook. Also her books - Pilgrimage to Heresy and St. James' Rooster. Tracy houses up to 4 post Camino pilgrims in her home in Caratona about 15km from Muxia. It is a minimum of 2 nights stay for pilgrims - offering them a place to talk, reflect, explore (she gives half and full day tours of this area of Galicia which has a very interesting and robust history) and unwind from the Camino. It is all donativo as she is a Camino purist.
I had a lot of time for talking to God and singing to Him and nature and reflecting on my walk from Finisterre to Muxia and then Muxia to here. I left Finisterre around noonish after having a fairwell breakfast with my friends there. I was only walking half of the 29k that day, to Lires, so I was in no rush. Sadly I got lost trying to get out of Finisterre and lost about an hour's time and 4k or more in walking. Seems like I have told you about this before, so I won't go into detail. If I haven't maybe I will come back. On that route I saw a whole 3 or 4 pilgrims all heading south to Finisterre of course. Since I was off earlier the next day to Muxia, I met at least 24 pilgrims heading to Finisterre - a few faces I recognized. While the walk to Lires was predominently near the coast where I could at least hear the breakers; the walk to Muxia was not. It was predominantly away from the coast, so it was glorious coming out of the woods and being greeted by the ocean! These pristine beaches with nary a soul on them! Muxia was heavenly and truly my end! Where Santiago was anti-climatic and Finisterre was beautiful Muxia was my end and it was HEAVENLY! Pastor Ruud I know you haven't walked there, but if you haven't been there at all you should! After I got settled I bought a bottle of Vino Blanco and a chunk of queso and headed to the world's end - out by the rocks and the monestary and supposedly the locations where Mother Mary touched in at Muxia by boat. However if she did she most certainly would have had her boat crushed on the rocks and drowned! LOL
I spent the afternoon relaxing, praying, toasting with God, laughing and crying and walking down to the edge to let the breakers wash over me. It was truly glorious and a great ending. All that was left was walking to Tracy's the next day to prepare for the return home. That I am even here is a miracle as well. I never intended to walk past Santiago, but was going to France. God's hand was definitely there when I turned back in Negreira and went to the tourism office and met Sienna. Sienna who sent me to Casa Pepa, and Lires, and Bela Muxia and then here!! Only on the Camino!
I left Muxia yesterday morning a bit later than planned due to some last minute farewells. Oh well - it didn't matter. I had a short walk before me and I had nothing but time. As I headed out on the road I suddenly realized I would be walking 16k on the road with only a rough map and no yellow areas - MOMENT OF PANIC! Before I left one of the hospitalarios had made it very clear - DON'T FOLLOW THE CAMINO. I had to laugh at myself after, because when I saw the first Camino marker I made a beeline to it - crossing the road to do so. I was drawn to it like a magnet! However I remembered her words and just kept walking down the road. It was an uneventful and beautiful walk for the most part. At the end I did actually leave the road and took a delightful 20-30 minute trapse thru the woods and a meadow and by a river. At one point the path was wilder than anything I had walked on the Camino. I even asked myself - does this place even have electricity because it was so wild - knowing they did as Tracy has internet!
I made it to Carantoña no problem - well til I got there and found Little Fox House. The door was closed and no one was around! Tracy finally came to the door with her road on and looking miserable. Sadly she was very sick, but I had not gotten her early morning email telling me not to come today. She of course let me in and gave me a quick intro before heading back to bed.
And so I came to The Little Fox House. Since arriving I have been blessed with quiet time, new friends Kevin and Brenda and a trip to a real castle and a fun dinner together with them; new friends the next day to take the place of Brenda and Kevin - Fabiana from The Canary Islands and Patricia from New Zealand; a trip to town with Tracy and a visit to her language school; some wonderful meals; the festival coming to the SMALL village (the stage that was trucked in is bigger than the village - lol); falling asleep after 1am with the music from the festival still playing up the street; a lovely mass officially opening the festival with a procession from the church led by the cross and two figures of Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus accompanied by a band with drummers and bagpipes; another new friend in Leigh - America now living in Holland; a traditional folk festival in another village that started at 10pm and went into the night; and more wonderful food and quiet time. So hard to leave!
So I have a dream now - I am drawn to Spain and would consider retiring here. From dear Tracy and Sienna I have learned much of the downside to living in Spain. The economy is in ruins, unemployment is well over 50%; racism is a terrible problem; getting a work permit if not European is almost impossible and other lesser things. Yet I feel drawn - perhaps it won't be Spain, but somewhere where I can live a simpler life and contribute to a community that has needs I might fulfill. To that end I will return home and begin some things that would make the dream possible if I should decide to pursue it. I am going to register for Spanish classes first and foremost. Megan will be doing a happy dance on this one - if I am able to master Spanish then she and I can converse and keep her Spanish up to par. I also want to get certified to teach ESL (English as a Second Language). This will make me more marketable in many foreign countries (although thanks to the European union still a bit difficult in Europe) and mine own as well! And lastly, because I woul love to write a book or two someday, I will also looking into taking some college writing classes. I have gotten some tips on writing from Tracy, and I can't wait to read her books (have read the intros and prologues and such) as I love her writing style. You can't ever realize a dream if you don't take steps to make it a reality! Maybe it won't be Spain, but the skills I wish to pursue could help me in many ways. Next year Hannah and I will go to France so I can check France out as well. And in a few years I will be back to walk the Camino de la Plata with Megan, and I will get to see some of southern Spain.
I have learned so may lessons on the Camino and this wonderful place has given me a chance to reflect on the experience, share them with other pilgrims, get insight from them and from Tracy, a seasoned pilgrim and amazing historian and just enjoy Spain some more! I am anxious to be home, but also not anxious to leave.
Dias te bendiga!
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
ESL is a good choice if you want to live almost anywhere overseas...
The TBer "rrruss" (search under the Bloggers link at the very top of the page) just finished teaching for a year in Pamplona, Spain...but are now traveling around Vietnam. You can take your ESL certification course at many exotic locations...my son took the CELTA course in Bangkok, where he then taught high school for a year and is now teaching at a private school until September when he goes to Bangor University to take law. I have enjoyed reading about your experiences on the Way. You may frown on me, but I will likely take one of the shorter walks...I broke my ankle in February, and although it is pretty much healed by now, I am not sure how much it could take. I guess I will have to try 20 km walks at home to find out!