Day 29: Samos To Vilei via Sarria, 20kms

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“Now is not a good time to talk, thanks for calling.”

Origin Energy rang me from an Indian call centre last night, and this is my standard polite response.

However, it was 2.39am, so I was a little more to the point. I think I heard, “Have a nice holiday.”, as I ended the call.

I ate breakfast in the hotel bar, and had to compete with 13 Spanish cyclists for the attention of the only person serving. I ordered coffee with milk, and toast with jam. I received the coffee, and toast with jamon, spanish ham . It was salty and crunchy, just like my Spanish.

I met up with Dave, Darcy, and Janet at the same bar as yesterday, and left Samos in the dark, at 8am. I walked a little ahead, but whenever I stopped, they appeared minutes later.

It was a low misty morning and the steady climb out of Samos produced foggy breath and fogged up glasses. At the first peak, I removed my fleecy top and walked in the cool morning in a slightly damp shirt. Not the best for my cold but I was too hot.

The paths were smooth all morning, and often it was just a stroll down country lanes, through quaint stone villages, descending into lush green valleys to the sounds of cow bells and roosters, the whole time accompanied by bubbling streams or fast running rivers. The familiar scent of cows surfaced near villages, and at one point I noticed the sweet smell of fermenting apples as they rotted on the ground.

Sarria came into view before midday and I walked with a South African couple who I first met in Villaruz de Mazarife. They had a few problems, and their friends, who walk ahead at a competitive pace, had red swelling around the ankles. The Camino is a marathon, not a sprint, and you soon pay a price for starting out too fast.

While the others went looking for a trekking shop in Sarria, I ate tortilla and coffee, and left town towards Vilei, about 4 kms away. There is a steep climb about 2 kilometres from Sarria but the path has been surfaced and graded with light gravel. In 2014, you had to not only climb this long, steep hill, but it was strewn with rocks to navigate as well. This steep hill is a fitting welcome to anyone starting out from Sarria, and would have them wondering what’s ahead.

Once at the top it was a short level stroll through farmland to reach the Albergue Barbadelo, and I was booked in and showered in no time.

Then NZ wandered up the path. I must have mentioned this place at some stage. She entered the bunk room, commented that her paperwork was wrong, as there were not 10 beds, and then plonked her freshly arrived bag at the base of my bunk. I pointed out it was Room 10, not 10 beds, and went to have myself moved. She had the bed below me!

I’m now in Room 11, bottom bunk, and have a window view.

No more tips for NZ!

The three amigos from Arizona arrived with wide grins announcing, “ Guess who we just saw.” No need for 2 guesses.

Tomorrow’s destination is now set but it’s a secret.

My cold has developed into a sore throat and a headache now but I’m on some Spanish drugs , will rest today, and hopefully it will become a distant memory. Otherwise, I walk with a sore throat.

Dinner is early, my washing is done, so tomorrow is a fresh start.

I’m going to Gonzar tomorrow, 26kms away, where I will be 3 days from Santiago. Sshhh.

This walk is drawing to a close and I’m yet to experience an epiphany of some sort. It has its magic moments, its disappointments, and times when I have wondered why? I’m really glad I’ve been allowed this opportunity; it costs are, obviously, money, and you are away from family and home for too long. I know it’s been hard on Sue, and I’ve had plenty of time to appreciate what I have in life. Regardless of what has been thrown at me, I have always enjoyed the unwavering support of family and friends.

I meet Tim on the 26th, walk to the end of the world, then another day to Muxia, and fly to Paris for a few days.

Well, that’s it for today. An early night rugged up in bed and I’ll be a new old man tomorrow.

See you then.

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Photos

Time To Strip Down
After the steep climb from Samos, I stripped off the layers and walked in a damp shirt. Sensible? Not really.

Look Out !
Outside of Sarria you cross this rail line before climbing a steep hill.

A Little Bridge On The Way
Signpost on the left.

My Room At Barbadelo
4 bunks and great facilities