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Published: June 27th 2006
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Room with a View
Hospetaje Lopez...I must have scaled at least 300 steps each time I returned to my accommodation - but it was worth it I´m at the end of the world - or rather that´s what they used to think! Finisterra (Land´s End) is perched on the most western point of the European continent - it´s also the last port of call for pilgrims who think that reaching Santiago just wasn´t enough - another 3 days of walking (or 4 .5 hours of cycling) will find you in this idylic fishing village watching the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.
There are many rituals most pilgrims find themselves performing but I´ve been the rebel pilgrim all along the way - no point in changing my ways now!
In Santigo I didn´t:
- lay myself prostrate in the plaze in front of Santiago Cathedral
- bang my head on the ´banging head´statue
- hug the crypt of St James
- place my hand on the column which bares a handprint created over hundreds of years by pilgrims
I did however as stated previously attend the pilgrims mass on the day of my arrival & have since found our that I was indeed priveleged to witness the ´Swinging Incense Spectacular´. It only happens on very special occassions (or when someone crosses the palm of the
cathedral bursor with enough coins to perform the ceremeny - as it turns out a group of touring geriatrics were willing to pay the price on the day I was there!!!)
For those with stamina enough to complete the 88km journey by foot to Finisterra, the ritual is to go to the bottom of the lighthouse & wash yourself in the sea, burn all your walking clothes & robe yourself in white & walk back to Santiago - all cleansed of all sin! On the way stop at the Finisterra beach & collect a St James shell - a scallop shell as a symbol that you have completed the journey.
Well I managed the trip up to the lighthouse - but I wasn´t going to brave the wild Altanic seas on those rocks - & I wasn't burning any of my lycra & nor do I have any white clothing. I did go shell collecting with my new friend Fritz from the senior citizens club though!
My last week in Spain has seen me cover most of the south west corner of Galicia. On the Tuesday after my arrival into Santiago, I heard about a guy who
was attacked on several occasions by dogs - this really got the wind up me & so I hot footed it down to the tourist office & promptly booked myself onto 3 separate BUS tours!!
As it turned out, it was probably the best thing. I managed to cover a huge amound of ground I wouldn´t have on my bike & obtained a lot more knowledge about these regions from my very daggy, but hilarious guide Diago - he treated me like a princess as I was generally the only non-Spanish speaking passenger. After the first day, I told him he´d have to freshen up his very terrible jokes about Australian kangaroos & koalas!!
We went to the Spanish version of the Riviera, to mussel & scallop farms where we sampled literally a bucket of fresh mussels washed down with the ubiquitous bottle of vino blanco. We saw many a quaint fishing village, church, monastary, castle, monument & statue, many of which are steeped in the pagan/religious history surrounding Spanish life! We visited the inland canyon region where vineyards miraculously hug the steeply terraced slopes down into the canyon & sampled a very full bodied red wine of
the region. My third tour took me eventually to Finisterra where I scoured the roadside along the way for any sign of menacing dogs - convinced I didn´t see a canine the entire day - I decided to return the following day - after not having a bike seat attached to my arse for the previous 5 days - it was good to be back on the bike! The closest thing I saw to a savage canine was a meekly barking King Charles English Spaniel.
So here at the end of the world I´ve spent a very pleasant few days enjoying the warm sun & sand - Galicia has finally turned on the sunshine!!
Tomorrow I head back to Santiago & leave Spain on Thursday for another adventure!!
Adios amigos
Hasta luego
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Sue K.
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Hey Toots - just now catching up on all your news - sounds like a fantastic trip. Hope you are taking LOTS of pics.