Madrid, Spain- February 2011

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“I suppose, from a modern moral point of view… the whole bullfight is indefensible; there is certainly much cruelty, there is always death, and I should not try to defend it now, only to tell honestly the things I have found true about it.”

-Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon, 1932

Hemingway didn’t have a moral dilemma about bullfighting. When he wrote of people’s aversions, it was usually in reaction to the brutal death of the horses involved. Modern bullfighting has evolved to protect the horses— otherwise I could not have attended. Why should I feel that way about the horses and not the bulls? Truthfully, I don’t know. Maybe it’s because the bull is naturally viewed as an aggressor, a threat; the feeling is visceral. Even so, I was uncertain about watching six bulls brutally slaughtered for entertainment. I wasn’t sure I could make it through one fight, let alone six, but it was something I felt compelled to witness. I don’t know if it was a desire to experience something quintessentially Spanish, or just because it’s unlike anything I had ever seen. I didn’t know what to expect, and as I waited for the bullfight to begin, my anxiety was palpable— for the bulls as well as the matadors. Once the fight started, though, my sole concern was involuntarily for the matador, and the impact of the bulls’ demise didn’t hit me until later that night. Bullfighting is brutal, bloody, and sad, but it would have been impossible for me to walk out early. There was something compelling in the violent, yet graceful contest, and as much as I hate to say it, I’d probably go again. I do wonder if the heyday of bullfighting has passed— it seemed to be a spectacle for an older generation; there were few young people in the crowd. I doubt Spanish bullfighting will ever disappear, but as the older generation passes, I can’t help but wonder, will the passion for it wane?

Like bullfighting itself, Madrid is more than what it seems; it needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. Even though Madrid is the third most populous city in the European Union, it’s often overlooked due to its lack of iconic monuments. Even within Spain, it plays second fiddle to Barcelona when it comes to tourism. I myself underestimated Madrid; I figured it would be dirty, impersonal, and slightly overwhelming. I figured wrong! Madrid is one of the cleanest and most manageable cities I’ve been to. Most of the major sights are in close proximity to the city center, and no more than a 20-minute walk anywhere. In addition, it’s beautiful! The French Beaux-Arts architecture gives the city a dramatic and opulent feel. There’s no shortage of things to do: sporting events, world-class museums, cultural and historical sights, and extraordinary food. The end of February turned out to be a great time to visit— it was warm and sunny, soccer was still in season, and bullfighting was just getting underway. I couldn’t have asked for more!

For weeks, I had my mind set on seeing a soccer game, so my first night I made my way up to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium to watch Real Madrid take on Levante. Real Madrid are the New York Yankees of European fútbol: they buy the top players and win more than any other team. Cristiano Ronaldo is the team’s preeminent player and one of the two best in the entire world. Though I am not a fan of his, the style and skill with which he plays is extraordinary; he is a treat to watch. The game was exciting, with lots of scoring opportunities and, no surprise, Madrid won 2-0. Santiago Bernabeu holds 80,000 people, and my €40 bought me a seat so high up I needed a Sherpa guide to get there. I purchased my ticket at the stadium box office, but for popular games it’s necessary to buy tickets in advance. Tickets can be purchased for face value on Real Madrid’s website, but many other ticket sites charge a premium. The cheapest ticket on those sites was €63 for the same €40 seat.

Every Sunday, El Rastro market fills the streets south of Plaza Mayor in the La Latina section of the city. Vendors sell everything— artwork, clothing, leather goods, knick-knacks, home décor, CDs, etc. The market winds its way through many, many streets and the crowd can be difficult to negotiate at times. It’s a pickpocket’s dream, so definitely keep a hand on your wallet. The market is a great way to get a good, local feel for the city.

El Museo del Prado is a world-class art museum, on par with the Metropolitan, the Louvre, and the Rijksmuseum. To avoid long lines, go early in the day or purchase tickets in advance on the museum’s website. It costs €8 for entrance to the permanent collection. Diego Velázquez and Francisco Goya are the two most well known and well represented artists in El Prado. Many of their most famous works are here, including Las Meniñas and The Third of May. There are many incredible paintings in El Prado, especially portraits, and it’s manageable enough to get through the whole museum in a few hours. Some lesser-known works that really caught my attention include:

* Jusepe de Ribera’s portraits of the Apostles, especially St. Peter and St. Bartholomew. Both saints are easily recognizable, depicted by Ribera holding the symbols traditionally associated with each— St. Peter holding the keys to Heaven and St. Bartholomew holding the knife that skinned him alive.
* Albrecht Dürer’s fully restored Adam and Eve is wonderful. The accompanying display, explaining details of the restoration, is also quite interesting.
* El Greco has an entire room dedicated to some of his very large and impressive paintings.

Across the street from El Prado is El Museo de Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza, a smaller, but no less impressive museum. Arranged chronologically, the collection begins on the second floor with “Italian Primitives” and continues down to the first floor where it ends with 20th Century work. Though comprising only one room, I found German Expressionist paintings by Otto Dix, George Grosz, and Max Beckman to be the most interesting. Painted during the Weimar Republic between World War I and World War II, these works contain really dark images and themes.

Basilica de San Francisco el Grande is another venue to see great artwork. It’s home to paintings by Velázquez, Zurbarán, and Goya, and definitely worth the €3 admission fee. I arrived late in the afternoon, just as a tour was beginning. The guide encouraged me to join the group even though I told him I only understood a little Spanish. He did his best to make sure I got at least some of what he was saying, including throwing in some English from time to time.

The Palacio Real was interesting from the standpoint that I had never been inside a palace. It’s widely considered to be the third most spectacular… grand… ostentatious (choose your adjective) in all of Europe, behind Versailles in France and Schönbrunn in Austria. I didn’t think it was worth the €10 entry fee, but then again I didn’t see everything there was to see. I didn’t realize there was an Armory exhibit through another entrance, so I only saw the apartments. If you’ve seen either of the other two palaces I’ve mentioned, then maybe I’d skip this one, unless you’re a big palace aficionado.

Likewise, I didn’t think €6 admission to the Almudena Cathedral museum (right next door to the palace) was worth it. However, the view from the top, only accessible through the museum, is gorgeous. The cathedral itself was closed due to construction, so I don’t know if there’s an entrance fee.

Plaza Mayor and Plaza del Sol are both spectacular places to sit and people-watch. I spent most evenings in one or the other enjoying various performers— the guy making giant bubbles is a crowd favorite, especially amongst kids, but what caught my attention was the beauty and grace of the Flamenco dancer. Remember, these people are working for tips, so if you enjoy what they’re doing, and especially if you take a picture, tip them!

The food in Madrid is spectacular! The best, by far, was Casa Toni— SO unbelievably good I went back two more times. I had read they’re famous for gazpacho, but I was on a mission to be adventurous. I was all about trying food I hadn’t had before, so my first dish at Casa Toni was sweetbreads sautéed with herbs— sweetbreads are thymus glands, in this case, from lamb. I know, it sounds weird, possibly even gross, but it was one of the best things I’ve eaten in my life! It looks like chicken, but it’s juicier and has a lot more flavor. It was so delicious I had to go back the next day for sautéed kidneys, which were good, but not nearly as tasty as the sweetbreads. For those not interested in eating animal organs, the calamari and patatas bravas are really good too! They also do fried pigs’ ears, but I had already tried them down the street at Oreja de Jaime. They’re not particularly appetizing— like fattier bacon with a crunch (from the cartilage), but I ate them because as I said, I was determined to be adventurous.

Continuing on that theme, I went to Casa del Abuelo, a stone’s throw from Casa Toni and Oreja de Jaime. They do shrimp and langostinos. Shrimp with garlic and butter is a safe choice, but if you’re a bit more daring, they grill whole shrimp (heads & all). It’s customary to suck the juices out of the head before eating the body— it’s kind of briny, and actually pretty tasty.

Jamón Iberico is the jamón to have in Madrid. Most places offer a “ración” (serving) for around €14-16, but Alhambra has half raciónes for €8. A half ración is enough for one person, and the price is a lot more reasonable too. It’s cured ham, very much like prosciutto, and just as tasty. The fat literally melts in your mouth, which may or may not sound appetizing, but it’s so good!

Additionally, Mercado San Miguel offers great food. It’s kind of trendy, crowded on the weekends, and slightly pricier than most places, but the delicious food and excellent variety are worth it!

Madrid can be an often-overlooked travel destination; I didn’t get there until my sixth trip to Europe (and second to Spain)— I’m so glad I finally did! In addition to all there is to do and see within Madrid itself, it’s a terrific hub for day trips to outlying areas. If you want a truly “Spanish” experience, Madrid cannot be ignored!

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