Between a rock and a hard place

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Geo: 42.0534, 3.19767

01/07/11 Hot and Sunny 25 oC

Well the wind never died down which made the first part of the trip lively but better than expected, and the journey northwards was a treat that was until we were approx 15 mls from our next site, all of a sudden there was a police road block ahead and without any warning the road ahead was blocked. I've had previous experience of the French authority's attitude to deviations / detours, and one thing you can be sure of is there's rarely an alternative route signposted so it's a case of everybody for themselves, which is where sat nav is or can be a real boon.

As expected the sat nav quickly replanned an alternative route which was in line with where everybody I was following was going so there was an element of quite, secure satisfaction, until we reached the next village. At the roundabout it was clear that everyone was taking the second turning which is what the sat nav suggested however it was an extremely tight turning off the narrow roundabout into an ancient arched entrance, where even the cars had to take their time going through, for me it wasn't even an option. The only other option left was the first exit which had a 3.5 Tonne weight limit which effectively barred me at over 4.3 Tonnes but there were no other alternatives so fearing the worst I took the first turning.

The first 4 miles were fine but whilst scanning the sat nav plan of the next village I discovered the main road through the village was a series of alternating 90 degree turns, a daunting prospect with an outfit just shy of 40', ever the optimist, so we forged ahead. At the first T junction there was complete pandemonium (I should explain that the road all through the village is up hill with varying gradients and in the event that there's a need to reverse the caravan uphill it's never an easy task, anyway having come to a full stop stuck half way up the incline into the village we waited whilst a Mercedes Sprinter van up front changed its mind about turning right into the village and was blocking the road whilst it did a 5 point turn to make what was in effect a left turn at the junction . I eventually approached the T junction to make a 90 right hand turn swinging far over as there was little room.

First problem negotiated satisfactorily and I joined the end of the queue trying to get through ASAP. As the car in front moves off I see there's an artic stopped in the road and is now blocking off my side of the road completely and to make matters worse it's just before the next bend in the road! The next minute Linda's shouting at me to stop, what the bloody hell for I said can't you see I've got enough on my plate already! "That lady was trying to flag you down saying you can't get through here", I was flabbergasted and a feeling of foreboding came over me (this happened once before in France but that's another story) With that the lady appeared at the window to inform me the road ahead was completely blocked and that I need to turn around, I explained about the police road block which she seemed to know about. I asked where I could turn around as the road was only narrow with no entrances or roads off that I could turn into, to which she replied with both upturned hands in the air that she didn't know how I could do it but I couldn't go forwards!!!!

So I'm now stuck behind the artic, can't see around the bend as the artic's blocking it off so there was nothing for it but to stop where I was and go and investigate the problem for myself. I soon discovered there were two artic's in front of me although the lead one was only the tractor unit with no trailer, as I walked around the corner I could see the rear of an artic stuck at the around the next 90 degree bend in the road, and nothing moving I turned around to find the artic drivers conversing nonchalantly about the problem. Talking to them it became clear that the first driver got his outfit well and truly stuck between the buildings where there was a quick 90 degree right turn followed by an immediate 90 degree left turn.

Considering all my limited options I thought that providing all the sightseers moved out of my way, (by this time as you may imagine all the towns out to watch the spectacle) I could squeeze forwards past the artics up the hill towards the back of the stuck lorry I might just be able to do a 2 point turn by reversing back between the gap at the front of the local pub and the village tree, and then swinging back around the front of the stationary lorries in order to get out of the town ( I'd no idea where I might go but anywhere was better than here right now). Plan decided upon I returned to the car and set off, managed to squeeze past the two lorries, around the bend and then was stopped in the middle of the road by a gentleman who appeared to be taking control of the situation. A quick discussion ensued whereby he informed me that I need to pull into the car park of the local hotel on my left, or the town car park on my right and wait for five minutes until the problem resolved itself.

A quick look at both of the suggested options and it was obvious to anyone they were non runners one would have ended up with the caravan rear end being ground into the road such was the approach angle of the entrance and even if I attempted it there was little chance of me backing out as it would entail me reversing back through the drive whilst doing a 90 degree turn up uphill across a narrow road. The other option would have left the last 5 feet of the caravan sticking out onto the road!

Try as I might I couldn't get this bloke to understand, then I looked back in horror to discover that unbeknown to me cars had still been trying to come through the village and where now stuck behind me. I was in that place, between a rock and a hard place, and of course being English was the source of some amusement for the locals. The blokes still going on about me parking up and I couldn't think straight but I'd had enough. I went to the lorry drivers and with my best French hand signals explained what I wanted to attempt as I thought they were probably the only ones who may understand what I wanted to do.

With their help we got the traffic queue behind me organised to give me manoeuvring room, but when I got back to my car that BLOKE had let three cars come down the hill and they were now bumper to bumper facing my car (I just wanted a 12 bore to resolve my problem) eventually we got them backed up the hill so I could start my manoeuvre. I felt like I was driving for England as all the village eyes were on me and I'm bloody sure money was changing hands.

Even though I say it myself it all went to plan without a hitch (no pun intended), one of the lorry drivers thought, it was to use his words superb, and the others all had their thumbs up, at last I was free and facing back in the opposite direction, but to go where?

We turned back the way we came to find the lady who originally told us to turn around doing a magnificent job of directing the traffic at the T junction and thereby preventing the town becoming blocked. Just as we reached the junction she directed us to stop as another artic eventually made its way up the hill where we originally came from to the middle of the junction to make the sharp left turn ( which is where the Sprinter eventually went , obviously he had seen the problem ahead) it took the poor artic driver 7 attempts each one getting closer to enabling him to finally get around what seemed an impossible turning, just after that we finally managed to follow the artic back along what was in fact a single track lane, and I mean track, heading back to the main road some 8km further on from the road block. It was thanks to that woman that the town wasn't completely gridlocked; I would have loved to have thanked her but unfortunately never got the chance.

We arrived at the site an hour later than expected and thoroughly relieved; first things first, we connected the van up and then sat outside for a well deserved drink, ah. Unbelievably we were the only people on the site.

02/07/11 Hot and Sunny 21 oC

After a relaxing breakfast outdoors it was time to hitch up for the 4hr drive to the next site. The journey went without a hitch through some of the most beautiful French countryside, until we arrived at the site, relaxed, and ready to enjoy our 4 night stay.

After unpacking we settled down to drinks outside as is our norm, travelling, stressful, BBQ, and brilliant days along with week-ends are always the times we settle down for aperitifs' before eating. After about 20 minutes we were surrounded by owners chickens, who we fed and they settled down for the long haul and didn't leave for hours. Not long after the chickens arrived we were visited by Shanna a black Labrador who also took a fancy to us, and after demolishing the fat and trimmings from our steak dinner decided we were his best friends.

03/07/11 Hot and Sunny 23 oC

We had a nice easy day travelling around the countryside and visiting the towns of Payrac and Souillac.

As soon as we returned to site and sat down outside for our customary drink we were greeted by the chickens who came running across the site to see us (for see us read to be fed) 20 minutes later the as the site owner was passing we commented that as we were feeding her chickens were we entitled to a discount on the eggs, no, jokingly came the response but you can carry on, oh well if you don't try you don't get.

04/07/11 Hot and Sunny 24 oC

We spent the morning lazily visiting the local villages before making our way Rocamadour the 12th century village and monastery perched upon the cliffs, it looks as though it was carved from the rocky cliffs themselves, rather than built on them and it has long been one of the world's most famous pilgrimage destinations. We arrived and discovered as is often the case there was little parking close to the site, however there was parking lower down in the valley with the option to take a small train backup to the main street which we opted for. The most remarkable thing was that the parking was free and you weren't obligated to take the train you could walk up if you wanted.

The time just flew and by the time we had walked all around the village and checked out all the small shops it was time to make our way up to the top, there is a lift service available if you want but we opted to climb the Grand Stairway which is made up of 216 weather-worn stairs, which lead to a small square where the chapels are located. Since the 12th century, pilgrims asked for penance by climbing the stairs on their knees while they prayed. After some time we took the winding walkway which leads from the lower level up the hillside to the chateau. Situated along this walkway, there are the 12 Stations of the Cross and the Cross of Jerusalem.

Despite the exhausting heat the walk was well worth it, during the walk up and at the top we stopped to talk too many of the visitors and offered to take group photos for some of them when it was clear that they wanted to have a memorable photo but couldn't both be in it. By the time we eventually got back to the car it was 18:00! We really couldn't believe where the time had gone.

We returned to a panoramic view point from the village of L'Hospitalet to get some photos before leaving. We had planned to return to a great little restaurant in Souillac and then travel back to see the site at night when it's all lit up, however once we got to L'Hospitalet I knew inside that we needed to stay, and watch the sun go down from here, it was just one of those moments.

We booked a t veranda table at the Restaurant Le Belvédère which looks across the valley to Rocamadour, not only was the view fantastic the food was to die for, it was just absolutely fantastic we opted for all the regional and restaurant specialities. Foie Gras with Tomato & Honey Relish, followed by

We dined until the sun was just setting and then settled up and walked out to the viewing point to watch the site slowly light up, it made the perfect end to a perfect day, were so so lucky.

05/07/11 Overcast 20 oC

Today we decided to visit the site of St Cirq Lapopie, famed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Following the route planned by Tom Tom which might have been the quickest, but crikey it was interesting, we climbed along up on single roads (for roads read tracks) following the contours of the mountainside. The views were spectacular in places and despite my initial reservations I wouldn't have changed the experience.

St-Cirq-Lapopie dramatically overhangs the river Lot clinging precariously to a rocky outcrop high above the river. The village was divided in the Middle Ages between four feudal dynasties, Lapopie , Gourdon , Cardaillac and Castelnau with the result that several castles and fortified houses dominated the village.

The streets are well preserved with many old houses whose frontages out of stone or wood date from the 13th to 16th Centuries. These small, narrow houses are characterised by their steeply pitched tiled roofs. St-Cirq-Lapopie has long been associated with painters and there are many artisans still active in the village.

By mid day the sun came out and we had an enjoyable visit only cut short by the fact that we needed to return to the site to start packing the van up for the move the following day.

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