Dali & Tunnels

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We left Cadaques by way of the Parc Natural. The entire area is a coastal plain, with some 100 different species of birds having been spotted at one time or another. it turned out to be a very nice drive with no traffic at all. Our next destination was Figueres described as humdrum by Lonely Planet, except for the Teatre Museu Dali...which they say is worth every minute...good enough for us. Now I've heaard of and even seen some of Dali's work, but not prepared for this venue...it is wonderful! Salvadore Dali was born here in 1904 and although he had traveled quite extensively, went back to his roots to convert an old burned out municipal theater into his museum. It truly is a stage for his incredibly imaginative work, which is extensive...I don't know when he slept. There are too many tricks and illusions he pulls to describe, and the camera has a difficult time conveying...the self portrait is an example. When you look across the room at a large painting of the back side of a nude woman, and then when you look thru your camera lense to take a picture, you see his portrait...what's up? Then in the Sala de Mae West is a living room where the furniture and impressionist paintings of Paris appear to be the eyes, nose and mouth of Ms West portrait. There is not enough time to elaborate on his creative genius.

We thought about heading to Girona, but felt lazy so we took a short cut to Olot where the was a Museu dels Volcans and Jardi Botanic. Four volcanoes stand outside Olot, part of a parc natural. The most recent eruption was some 11,500 years ago, so they are essentially consider extinct. We are definitely spoiled by our Atlanta Botanical Garden, as the jardi Botanic was in need of considerable attention and we got to the Museum at 11;45 at which the gentleman at the door looked at his watch and shook his head in a negative manner. Everything closes down for a couple of hours mid-day.

Our next stop was to be Vic, a city with a historic centre and one of Catalonia's leading religious centers...hence many churches. It was supposed to have a nice market, but we got there just as they were cleaning up...curious since it seemed pretty early. We strolled around but not particularly impressed and took an early exit. I had read something about a small town outside Vic named Rupit, said to be an enchanting excursion, which sounded good to us.

If you are in this area, don't miss Rupit, it is indeed an enchantling old village set along side a stream and in rugged grazing country side. Streets are lined with 17th century houses that have obviously been maintained/renovated by the wealthy, as they are gorgeous. A cute little girl had her head out the window but would not let me take a picture; she'd duck down below the window. But as soon as I turned around she stood up and let out a squeal. I noticed a mirror on the church door, and was able to get a reverse angle of her with the camera. This must be a summer get-a-way and tourist attraction as we were one of only two cars in a large parking area. Luckily, we must be in the low season.

Our hotel was only a few miles north in Sant Quirze de Besora which is not even in the travel guides, but found in my Bookings.com search as a reasonable destination for our drive today. It was appeared to be a working mans town with more typical activity. Nothing was open. The hotel had a very limited bar menu, but they pointed out a restaurant around the corner. I had walked down that way earlier and didn't see it, so it must be a hole in the wall. Sure enough there was a restaurant and it was full of the locals, so it must be good. I saw a dinner plate full of morel mushrooms, so I got my hopes up. No one spoke any English...zip/zero. They did communicate they had no more morels. So all I could ask for was "tipico." We got a great meal of some kind of stew...let's say lamb...but regardless it was really good.

Our hotel actually ended up being the first real modern hotel, nothing special, but large, nice and clean and with a view of the river and village on the otherside. Another relaxing day of travel...thank goodness for the tunnels, don't know how they got around before them.

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