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Published: August 23rd 2010
Day 1 - Sunday 18th July My wife Hannah and I are once again heading back to Spain for some Mediterranean sun and culture this time visiting Barcelona, the capital of Cataluña! Our lunch time flight aboard an ageing Jet2 Boeing 737-300 from Leeds Bradford to Barcelona El Prat Airport is trouble free and 5 mins ahead of schedule! (
) Getting off the plane we're immediately greeted with the customary blast of hot air, which is fantastic! We're here! Quickly head for the railway station and catch a train to Barcelona - 3 euros. The carriage is nicely air-conditioned which is very welcome. The journey into the city centre takes about twenty five minutes and is an efficient way to transfer from the airport. We get off at Estatio Sants (the central station) and make the short journey on foot to our hotel which is about 5 minutes away.
We're staying at the Hostel LK Barcelona () which is a simple 2 star hotel tucked in on a side street off Carra Tarragona. The room is clean and comfortable and the aircon works well. We're not sure about hotel security and seeing as we have no safe I decide 
The Olympic Stadium
Taking in the Olympic Stadium which will soon be a hive of activity during the 2010 European Championshipsto load our cash and passports into my well warn money belt which last saw substantial service during my backpacking trip to Australia in 96. Pick pockets are quite prevalent in Barcelona, especially around Las Ramblas so we’re taking a few precautions just to be on the safe side. After a quick freshen up we head off down town to get our bearings. We're close to the Font Magica and the Placa Espania which leads onto the hill side region of Montjuic and home to the Olympic Village. First though we enjoy a quick San Miguel and sandwich at a street side café. Wonderful! Next we head up the multitude of stairs and escalators which lead up to the National Gallery. The unfolding views of the northern part of the city overlooking Mount Tibadbao as we climb the hillside are mesmerizing.
We’re soon upon the entrance to the Estadi Olympic (Olympic Stadium) and access is free which is a welcome surprise. The stadium is impressive and this month is once again in athletics action as it’s hosting the 2010 European Championships. For the remainder of the time it is used by Barcelona’s second football team, RCD Espanyol, however I
Overlooking the Font Magica
The crowds gather in anticipation of the fabulous daily water, sound and light show. suspect even Club Espanyol play second fiddle to the group of cats which also seem to be resident here! Afterwards we continue on a general stroll around Montjuic Park taking in its beautiful maize of gardens, pathways, and waterfalls which make for a lovely area for an early evening stroll. It also seems to be a popular venue for local amorous teenagers…!
We head back in the general direction of the National Gallery which offers fine views down over the Font Magica. The crowds are building in anticipation of the daily light, sound and water show which engulfs the water fountains scattered along a quarter mile stretch of road starting at the Placa Espania and leading up to the National Gallery - The Museu Nacional d’Art De Catalunja . We’re not disappointed and the waterfalls do indeed deliver something pretty special. Later we head along Avenue Del Paralel looking for a restaurant. We settle upon what looks like a simple street café serving tapas and fish called Cerveceria Restaurant. The food is good and fresh and six portions of tapas along with a couple of drinks comes in at around 25 euros, nicely finishing off our first day.
Day 2 - Monday 19th July We have decided to start our second day with an open top bus ride around the city, to get our bearings, and ensure we atleast see all the major sites and attractions. There are a couple of companies to choose from offering not dissimilar services but we settle on Barcelona Bus Touristic. We buy a day ticket which costs 24 euros per person and allows us to jump on and off the buses at any point on the three different routes as often as we like. Also included is a pair of individual headphones to listen to the audio commentary. We purchase our tickets from the underground tourist information centre on Plaza De Catalunja, a short hop from the main starting point for the red route. The red and arguably main route does an anticlockwise circle of the city taking in many of the major sites and showing off numerous examples of Gaudi architecture. It also takes in Montjuic and the port area visiting the World Trade Centre, and the Christopher Columbus monument skirting close to all the major museums, shopping areas and art galleries.
We disembark at the port and decide
San Miguel
Spain's Famous Lager to visit Barcelona’s famous aquarium which we are assured is one of the biggest in Europe. (
) The entrance fee is 17 euro each and we’re slightly disappointed in all honestly however no doubt if you have kids they’ll love it and the air conditioning is a welcome retreat from the heat outside. Next we walk up Barcelona’s famous Las Ramblas street, home to colorful street performers, souvenir venders, overpriced cafes, a range of outdoor pet stalls and even more famous pickpockets. Clutching our personal belongings for dear life, we make it to the top of the street unscathed. Again the hype is possibly over done a little bit, but certainly worth a few minutes of your time, if you like the hustle and bustle of the prime tourist street in a major city. For lunch we find an excellent bar just off Las Ramblas, which serves a wide range of Spanish pinchos (literally meaning small plate) in the Basque fashion. Each item is 2.50 euro each, fairly pricey for what you get, but certainly very tasty. Typical examples include spicy lamb kebabs, fried potato and meat dumplings, meatballs in a rich tomato sauce. Delicious. Next we join another open A typical Metro ticket for the Barcelona Underground
Opt for a multi journey ticket... they're great value! top bus this time on the Blue route, which takes in the North and North West parts of the city and is a useful transfer option for the Nou Camp Stadium and the wonderful Sagrada Familia (Gaudi’s famous world heritage cathedral).
That evening we dine at a fantastic Basque restaurant. Txikiteo Taberna Vasca (
) on Cala De Josep Anselm Clave. Tel.934124157. Metro Drassanes. The large wood benches, exposed brick, mood lighting and candles really set the scene, and the music's not bad either. Han starts with the spinach soup, I have pinto (a light stew of tomato, zucchini and peppers). For mains Han opts for the meatballs while I chose the quarter chicken in a tomato and pepper sauce washed down with a half carafe of riojca which has a good balance of fruit and spice. It's an excellent meal, hearty and good value.
After dinner we head to the marina to soak up the atmosphere. There’s 11 pristine racing yachts adorned with masses of sponsorship lined up in the harbor. They're part of the AudiMedCup, a prestigious annual event involving 11 international teams racing in five regattas over the course of five months in four different countries. La Sagrada Familia
Gaudi’s famous world heritage cathedral The Barcelona race takes place between the 20th and 25th July, when teams compete for the Conde de Godó City of Barcelona Trophy. A Security Guard eyes us suspiciously as we wander past! The port area is a nice place for an evening stroll. We sit and watch a number of boats and yachts quietly ease into the marina. We also happen across a homeless man settling in for the night tucked in round the back of the aquarium building. He has made a small shelter for himself out of cardboard. It’s a good spot as far as spots go. Quiet and away from the hustle and bustle. Less than 50m away a smart people carrier pulls up and drops off a wealthy Asian family who climb aboard their multimillion pound yacht. Despite an abundance of wealth, Barcelona, like most major cities also has a significant number struggling to get by. We arrive back at our hotel at about half past midnight. It’s still uncomfortably warm.
Day 3 - Tuesday 20th July We’re up early today to visit La Sagrada Familia Church the high point of any visit to Barcelona. For breakfast we make a quick stop at
a cafe seconds away from our hotel. Spanish omelette sandwich on fresh baguette with two coffees (Café con leche) which costs just 4 euros 60 and is a good start to the day. Then its onto the underground and towards Metro Sagrada Familia but despite our best efforts the queues are already huge when we eventually arrive at around 10am. We opt for entrance only which is 12 euro. You can also get an audio guide ticket for 16 euro. This incredible project, which won’t be completed for another 40 years or so is a true testament to the commitment, and vision of one of history’s most cherished architects, Antoni Gaudi and the sheer scale and detail is hard to take in. Work continues while the crowds mill about. It’s all a bit surreal. There will eventually be 18 towers, rising majestically into the Barcelona sky line, anchored by three intricate facades representing the nativity, the passion and the glory. The centre piece of the church will be a 170m high tower depicting Christ himself. Needless to say words are difficult to describe this incredible place. A true global project Gaudi brought some of the world’s best architectural minds onboard
the Tramvia Blau
Old Fashioned style transport on our journey up Mount Tibidabo to assist with his vision, a vision which now relies greatly on the generosity of anonymous donors to keep the building project alive. My advice would be to arrive early, in fact if possible at sun rise, way before the crowds arrive, to truly appreciate the splendor of this magnificent building.
Barcelona has certainly been taking its toll on our wallets and a quick count reveals we have spent around 220 euros since our arrival which means we're well on course to spend our 300 euro budget before our final day. Lunch is down graded accordingly and we eat at Pans and Company which is Spain’s answer to Subway. Refueled we head off for our afternoon excursion to Mount Tibidabo, which promises spectacular views of the entire city. First we take the Metro line L7 from Plaza Catulunya to Av Tibdabdo. Then it’s across the road to catch a wonderful old fashioned tram (the Tramvia Blau) which gently rattles and clunks it’s way 1.3km up the hill. Finally we cross the street again and climb aboard a funicular which with staggering ease, lifts us like an elevator up the mountain side, climbing majestically to the 512m peak. At the
top our reward is wonderful panoramic views of the city, and a chance to visit the beautiful Temple Del Sagrat Cor, The Church of the Sacred Heart. There is also a fun fair at the top of the mountain, offering all the usual attractions but sadly today the fair is closed. We later discover this is the result of a tragic accident involving a young girl which happened on the fair ground during the weekend before we arrived.
After our decent down the mountain we head off to the science museum (Cosmocaixa - Museu De La Ciencia) which is a short walk back up the hill. We’re not really sure what to expect but as we're in the neighborhood we decide to give it a try and it's only 2 euros in any case. Well what a find. A real gem and spectacularly good value. It's a sprawling building lay out over five levels with an aquarium and artificial rain forest at the bottom and a planetarium at the top. A wax work of Albert Einstein greets you on your entry and you know you're in for a real treat. With interactive science experiments galore to get involved with,
this delightful museum will entertain children and adults alike. Afterwards we head back to our hotel to freshen up. We once again dine at the pinchos bar where we had lunch yesterday ago but the mains are disappointing. We ask for some Iberian ham to start. Turns out to be 18 euros, the most expensive thing we order all evening, however it is incredibly tasty, and very much a customary delicacy of Spain! We beat a speedy retreat to our hotel to save some money for the last day. Indeed might have to visit the whole in the wall again!
Day 4 - Wednesday 21st July It’s our final full day in Barcelona and we’re going our separate ways this morning. Han heads off to the Museum of the History of Cataluña while I visit the home of one of the world’s great football teams, FC Barcelona and their Nou Camp Stadium. 19 euros gains me access to the stadium museum and a tour of the facilities including, the presidents room, the away dressing room, the Nou Camp Chapel, and a brief pitch side walk bringing me within inches of the hallowed turf. The tour is excellent, and
well worth the entrance fee. Barcelona FC is a sporting institution, with a rich history closely related to the politics of the region. Little known is that in addition to the football team, the club also has a professional basketball and ice hockey team. Being a Manchester United fan the opportunity to visit the stadium where Manchester United recorded their finest hour, completing an unprecedented treble in 1999, by beating Bayern Munich with a late injury time winner, is an unforgettable experience.
Feeling suitably overwhelmed I head back to Placa Espania to meet Hannah. We’ve decided to visit the intriguing Poble Espanyol (
) this afternoon, a fortified village built on the side of Montjuïc in 1929 which contains classic examples of Spanish architecture from across the country and is now home to a range of craft shops and restaraunts. It’s a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of the big city and we enjoy a relaxing few hours, eating lunch, wandering round the cobbled streets and visiting the contemporary art gallery and sculpture park. By mid afternoon we’re ready for a change of pace and scenery and take the underground to Barceloneta to explore Barcelona’s beach area. Its The Chapel in the Nou Camp...
Clearly well used on the night of Manchester United's divine European Cup win in May 1999! 6pm by the time we arrive and while the temperature is slowly easing off, the place is still a hive of activity. As we enjoy a gentle stroll along the boardwalk, we’re slightly taken aback when two perfectly bronzed nude men stroll confidently past us. A real eye opener but where do they keep their wallets?? Later we once again dine at Txikiteo Taberna Vasca bringing to a conclusion our lovely Catalan short city break.
Barcelona is a fantastic city. There is so much to see and do, that part of you feels that you can’t possibly do it justice. The crowds, the heat and the noise can be a little stifling, but in truth this is all part of the appeal. Barcelona doesn’t pretend to be conservative, and it isn’t for the faint hearted… it is what it is, a loud, passionate bustling hub of culture and opportunity. Like us, I’m sure once you visit, you’ll be left wanting more.
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Andrew Romagnoli
non-member comment
Barcelona
Another intersting review Mike. Me and Fi went there for a short break last December and had a wonderful time.