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Published: November 9th 2009
The Vistula River
The sun sets over the river Vistula in Krakow.My Easyjet flight from Liverpool to Krakow is efficient and uneventful. I like Easyjet; so far they've never let me down and within 2hrs 15 minutes flying time aboard a well kept Airbus A319, with a good tailwind I’m touching down in a frosty Krakow. Quickly collect my bag which is thankfully near the front of the carousel and then take a mini bus transfer to the city centre (5zl, circa£1.20). I walk across the city to the hotel. The old town is beautiful. The cobbled streets, littered with shops, bars and restaurants of all varieties give the place immediate appeal. There is something here for everyone. The rustic old buildings, which are grand and colorful, tell the story of a city thankfully spared the effects of war! Busy people come and go, while sleepy old ladies sit hunched over their pretzel stands. I'm soon on the south of the city near the river and able to check in to my hotel and unpack. The 4star Novotel Krakow Centrum. I'm on the first floor which is a bit of a bummer but the room is spacious and clean. Walk along the river around to kazimierez (the historic
Proof I visited!
It's hard taking a picture of yourself! Jewish quarter of Krakow) passing a helium filled Balloon which rises to about 400ft above the city tethered by a metal rope attached to a mechanical winch. The views for passengers must be spectacular. Although I'm tempted the contraption looks a bit rickety even for me! Wander through Kazimierez stopping at the magnificent Corpus Christi Church. Continue onto the old town and stop off at the Irish bar 'Nic Nawago'. Poland is one of the few remaining European countries that allows smoking in public buildings, and so it’s something of a throw back to enter a smoke filled bar and breathe in a scent that until prohibition was synonymous with the British boozer, in some ways it makes for a pleasant change from odor BO! Enjoy a couple of strong polish beers and a quick bite to eat as the sun sets over krakow before heading back to my hotel via the main square having a quick look at some of the evening market stalls. The temperature really dips when the sun goes down. Enjoy a swim, and sauna and then relax in my hotel room, taking the opportunity to finish my Italian homework for my evening class which I
St. Mary's Church on Rynek Glowny
St. Mary's church obscured by an early morning mist in Krakow. email to my teacher via my PDA! Have one more beer in my room but then call it a day!
Tuesday 3rd November 2009: Take Breakfast in the hotel, which isn't that great for £12 (65 Zl). Then walk into the old town stopping at two more magnificent churches. Firstly the church of St. Peter and Paul, and then the incredible St Mary's church in the north east corner of Rynek Glowny (the main square) After a quick mooch around a lovely bookstore just off the main square (to warm up more than anything else: the temperature is bitter today) I try and access the town hall tower which I believe delivers stunning panoramic views of the city. Unfortunately the tower is now closed until the spring. Instead head to Wawel Castle, and purchase two tickets for the State rooms 15zl and the crown treasury and armory (a further 15zl) There are about a further four exhibits which all also require separate tickets, so I just opt for the aforementioned two and hope for the best. The armory is a little dull. Similar fare to the royal armories in Leeds, (lots of guns and spheres from the 15th to
18th centuries and frankly once you've seen one gun you've seen them all, although the iconography and ornate detail intricately crafted into each weapon is fascinating). Move onto the state rooms which are quite interesting. Think bramhall hall but a bit grander! I can't help but notice that the entire castle is immaculate. Head outside and after a quick hot chocolate; take a few piccies to capture the visit. Head back into town and enjoy lunch at a noodle bar. Then arrange my ticket for an excursion to Auschwitz and Birkenau tomorrow through Cracow City Tours; 90zl. Following a quick coffee at another Irish bar ‘Pod Papugami’ where I read the English newspaper krakow post, I head back to the hotel for another swim, and sauna - got to get my moneys worth after all! Return back into town for dinner - I've chosen one of the restaurants recommended in a city guide pamphlet that I picked up in the hotel foyer. It's called Farinella and I'm promised rustic open dining space full of natural light, unfinished woods and a great range of wines so I head off in anticipation. The food is good, and I enjoy a two course
The Barbican
The Barbican was a defensive bastion built in 1498. dinner with two small glasses of white wine for 56zl - about £14. I have decided to partake of a bit of culture tonight; members of Krakow's orchestra are playing a concert inside St.Peter and Paul's church so I head off quickly so as not miss the 8pm start. Its a good gig, and they play some of the classics finishing with Mozart's 5th symphony to rapturous applause. Afterwards I make my way back to Nic Nawago to watch the footie, but sadly they aren't showing the ManUtd game, so I have to make do with Real vs AC Milan instead. 1-1. I'm informed by text from my Dad, who's at the ManUtd game that the boys have drawn 3-3 with CSK Moscow, coming back from 1-3 down. Phew!!
Wednesday 4th November 2009: I'm up early today for my trip to Auschwitz so after a quick shower I head out into the cold morning air and make my way towards the north of the old town towards my pick up point stopping en route to pick up a cheese and ham pretzel for my lunch later and a quick breakfast in one of the cafe/bars on the square. I
The entrance to Auschwitz
The words on the gate "Arbeit macht frei" mean "work brings freedom". opt for the polish breakfast which is lovely, a selection of freshly baked breads with ham, salami, scrabbled eggs and cheese not forgetting the obligatory strong black coffee. The trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau is harrowing. In my mind I can't help but think that perhaps those chosen for immediate death were the lucky ones. The torture and slow agonizing death suffered by those deemed fit for work was gruesome and calculated, right down to the last calorie. Given just enough nutrition to work for a mere three or so months but ultimately wither and perish, the Prisoner's pilfered belongings were awarded more respect, meticulously sorted, processed and cleaned, right down to the vile bundles of human hair, extracted from incarcerated prisoners, that were sent back to Germany to support the war effort, and gold teeth that were melted down for gold bullion. I keep thinking about the BNP and the platform society is affording them to spread their racial hatred; have we learnt nothing from history. We are permitted one brief look inside the old gas chamber at Auschwitz where about 70,000 prisoners were exterminated. I instinctively make a sign of the cross when entering the building, in a
Pope John Paul II
A dedication to the late Pope John Paul the 2nd inside Krakow Airport. place of such evil it just seems the right thing to do. Return to Krakow by about 3pm and there's a light drizzle falling which has helped lift the temperature by a couple of degrees. This is very welcome. Wander round for a bit before enjoying a latte and cake in a small cafe. Then back to the hotel for another swim and sauna. Tonight I've decided to dine at ‘La Campana Trattotoria’ close to St Peter and Paul's church, and it's a good choice. The food is excellent, and comes in at just a shade over lasts nights’ bill at 60zl. I start with some very tasty brushetta which is piled high with fresh herbs and dressed with thick balsamic dressing. The main is even better, penne tossed in a rich tomato sauce with strips of beef tender loin. I nearly don't get in because they're fully booked! I wander back towards the Novotel finishing the night at Somplace.else bar which is attached to the Sheraton Hotel. The drinks prices are adjusted accordingly. It’s a lively place decked out with plasma screens and sports memorabilia - I'm right at home! Once again my first choice game of Lyon V
Liverpool is not showing, instead I'm up the Arsenal!! Nightmare.
Thursday 5th November 2009: It's my last day in Krakow and I’m determined to make the most of it. It's overcast and drizzly this morning. I first visit the Museum of Stanislaw Wyspiañski a notable polish artist of the late 19th century. I'm a bit of a duck out of water when it comes to art galleries and so it’s with a slightly bemused expression that I wander round the exhibits casting a critical eye over masterpieces I don't frankly understand. I make a mental note to look up Wyspiañski when I get home. Following a quick bite to eat back at the main square I head off to visit the Czartoryski Museum where I’m promised the unique and rare opportunity to see Leonardo Da Vinci's master piece 'Lady with an Ermine' which is on loan to the Museum until February next year. But alas my luck is out and the paintings gallery is closed from today until November 15th. Denied. I next wander over towards the central train station (Krakow Glowny) to familiarize my self with the train system ahead of my airport transfer tomorrow. It all seems quite straight forward so happy I won't miss my flight tomorrow, I alight at the neighboring shopping mall which is handily attached to the railway station. This sprawling metropolis of shops set out over three levels boasts all your house hold favorites in a clean and minimalist building. Its testament to how far Poland has come since its old communist days that a building like this can sit so gracefully in amongst the classical architecture of the old town. I continue my walking tour of the city trying to mop up a few more streets that I’ve not been down. I enjoy a few minutes solace in the Bascilica of the Holy Trinity, another magnificent church and then enjoy a chicken kebab and cinnamon tea in a vaulted underground sheesa bar. Finally its time to do the obligatory gift shopping. Krakow of course has the usual tourist cliché but hidden amongst it I've seen a few items of interest during the last few days. Catholicism is still a serious part of polish culture, and the tourist artifacts reflect this with many tasteful dedications to the late pope John Paul 2nd who the poles still hold in high esteem. The tide might be turning though, western influence abounds, and I’m not surprised to read that there has been a recent march in Warsaw by polish atheists keen to have their voices heard. I've decided to finish my trip with a slap up meal, and push the boat out a bit. Krakow has been decidedly kind on my wallet and I’ve still got about 250zl left of my 900zl (£200) budget. I dine out at the excellent Figa z Makiem restaurant which is found on the dimly lit Ul.Slawkowska street just north of the main square. The beef sirloin finished with baked pomegranates wrapped in parmar ham, and dressed with a white cheese sauce is delicious. I choose a couple of sides to wrap up the meal, French fries and grilled vegetables, not to mention a couple of glasses of house red which go down a treat. I have come to realize that the most indispensible item for any lone traveler is the customary reading material. Especially when eating alone. Time can literally stand still if you have nothing to look at so tonight I have with me the very witty ‘French revolution - cycling the tour de France' by Tim Moore - my 30th birthday present from Adam et al. It’s a great read, and so I enjoy my final few hours in this sleepy candle lit krakow restaurant, sipping good red wine and enjoying the indispensible company of the printed word. A light mist has descended on Krakow when I finally leave the restaurant at 10 o'clock, giving the city a hazy glow. A truly fantastic city with many faces and much appeal, and definitely one not to be missed.
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Andrew Romagnoli
non-member comment
Good review
Sounds like you had a great time in Poland. It must be my turn next!