Leon to Burgos

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Spent the morning at the next best sight in Leon, after the Cathedral, the Museum at San Isidoro Monastery. The great claim to fame here is the Romanesque frescoes that adorn the ceiling of the Royal Pantheon of tombs. They are so well-preserved that conservationists have not had to even add extra color. Some appear as if they were painted yesterday, which is impressive considered they were painted almost 1000 years ago. Unfortunately, though, they don't allow photos. I tried to take a few, but got horribly yelled at in Spanish - it's during such times I'm glad I don't understand Spanish as well. The paintings tell, once again, the Christian story, going along the ceiling from the Last Supper to the Crucifixion to the final Resurrection. You'll just have to take my word for it - a wonderful place, and the best paintings I've seen so far on this trip (but I have a long way to go).

Then basically just lingered in Leon, enjoying a long espresso at a cafe, people-watched for awhile, aimlessly wandered town, took some photos, until finally grabbing my bags from the hotel to catch the 3ish bus farther east to Burgos. This was an incredible drive. As I've been thinking about it since, I've decided that it was exactly like driving across Iowa. Hilly plains is how I'd describe it. We also mainly stayed off the main highway, weaving around a wide and weird variety of nondescript towns. Sometimes, the bus stop, to me at least, was just some random people standing on a corner in the middle of nowhere. The route also largely followed the Camino, and along the way I saw countless pilgrims, sweating across these flat, arid plains, with their walking sticks, their traditional gourds (for water), and of course the ever-present shell of St. James.

Also awesome was a giant rainstorm we hit right on the outskirts of Burgos. Poured at one point, and the lightning flashed brilliantly in the distance. Got in around 7ish, quickly checked in, and, although I've only spent a couple hours in town now, I just truly cannot help loving this place. It sits along this beautiful river, the Arlanzon, and maybe it was the storm clouds still lingering overhead, but the Old Town is a wonderful, almost magical place. Cobble-stones, plane trees in full bloom, perfectly maintained parks and flowers, and to top it all off, a massive cathedral looking down on it all. Can't wait to truly explore in the morning.

Tomorrow I also head North, for Bilbao, and the great Guggenheim Museum of Frank Gehry. Right now watching Game of Thrones in Spanish, and have realized that some curse words are the same no matter the language.

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Photos

San Isidoro Monastery
An old Romanesque place, but inside are the best frescoes in Spain.

Lion in Isidoro Cloister
Namesake of Leon, the Lion. Name actually comes from the Roman camp that was once here.

Plaza in Leon
While I was aimlessly wandering. I think this is City Hall, but I'm not completely sure.

Winding Streets
It's very easy to get lost in Leon. Streets look appealing to walk down, until you end up at a dead end, and have to walk all the way back. Never assume streets connect.

Romanesque Church in Leon
Wonderful old cross on a cobblestone square. Oddly enough, the cafe just to the left was playing Bob Dylan, which actually drew me here in the first place.

Shade Trees
That's the cafe, with the white umbrellas.

Arlanzon River in Burgos
A beautiful little river that literally just gurgles through town.

Beneath the Plane Trees in Burgos
Right next to river. This is the place the locals promenade down in the evening. Called the paseo, a Spanish, and Italian, ritual.

Stormy Evening
Yes, another cathedral. This is where I'm starting tomorrow morning. Had a great dinner right next to it.

Starting to Rain
Having another espresso, watching it rain, and enjoying the view beneath the plane trees.