Sevilla

---

Tuesday 18th - Thursday 20th June
I arrived in Sevilla around 11:30 am Tuesday morning after a 45 minute train ride. I left Cordoba feeling much lighter as I had posted home some stuff plus I left 2 pairs of sandals and a t-shirt behind in my room at the hotel. The excellent sandals I had bought in Madrid would more than adequately replace the 2 pairs of sandals that I had brought with me. This meant that I was back to my original 2 bags - my trolley bag and my back pack. Much easier to manipulate on the trains and escalators. I'd also had some washing done - my white jean shorts were looking a bit grey!
My first impression of Sevilla, as the taxi drove me from the train station to the hotel, was 'just another city!'. How wrong I was! The area around the cathedral and alcazar is full of interesting, little alleyways - very easy to get lost which I did that first afternoon when i went for a walk to orientate myself. A storm came in very quickly as I walked along the river and I sort shelter in - guess where? - a bar of course! A glass of tinto de verano (summer wine - red wine mixed with either 'seven up' or sparkling lemon drink) and fried eggs with potatoes and ham set me right to continue my adventure once the storm had passed.
The hotel I am staying at - another great deal through booking.com and recommended in 'Lonely Planet' - 'Hotel Alcantara' - is attached to a flamenco venue -'La Casa del Flamenco'. The performance is held in the patio of a 15th century palatial house. The stage lies in the middle of the patio surrounded by marble columns, wooden ceilings and walls of traditional tiles. The space between the audience and the artists is very small so there is no need for microphones or speakers, creating an intimate and unique atmosphere. Each performance highlights a different style of flamenco as there are a range of different artists. 'Esencia Flamenca' (Essential Flamenco) performed by guitarist, Jesus Guerrero, singer, Javier Flores, and dancers, Luisa Palicio and Alberto Selles stimulated the senses. Sight by the beautiful costumes; hearing by the haunting sound of the singing and the impeccable guitar work - and the appearance of goose bumps on your skin and your heart missing a beat as the passion expressed in the performance manifests itself in the audience. The audience was left with unforgettable sensations.
Wednesday was a lovely cool day - just right for walking! I spent the morning with Connie of 'Sevilla Walking Tours'. The brochure I picked up in the hotel foyer promised ' in less than 2 hours you'll know about the life, history and legends of this ancient city. Besides you'll discover those historic buildings, bars and shops that will make your stay a life-time experience'. The tour was this and much much more. As I have said before - its the guide that makes or breaks a tour. Connie was fantastic - she introduced herself and asked each member of the group to do the same. She remarkably remembered everybody's name as the tour continued. Starting at Plaza Nueve, Connie led us through the commercial district pointing out places of interest (churches!!!) and explaining the various features of the different types of architecture. She also made a slight detour from the regular route to show us the 'mushrooms' (Plaza de la Encarnation). We finished back at the Plaza del Triunfo - which lies between the cathedral, the Alcazar and the Tourist Information Centre.
With just time for a toilet stop and to visit the Tourist Information Centre for a map, I again Connie, this time for a tour of the cathedral. Connie gave meaning to the paintings and sculptures of the cathedral - explaining the saints of the city - Saints Justa and Rufina, sisters who were martyred in around 287 AD for destroying a pagan idol; Saint Isodore (560 - 636), an author; Saint (King) Fernando and the Virgen de los Reyes (Our Lady of Kings). On entering, I was overwhelmed by the grandeur and power of the building. The cathedral is the largest in Spain - being 130m long, 76m wide and reaching a height a 56m. The greater part of the cathedral was built between 1420 and 1506, and features Gothic, neo - Gothic and Renaissance elements. Some restoration has taken place due to damage caused by various earthquakes. There are 30 chapels contained within the perimeter walls of the cathedral, the Sacristy contains the magnificent cathedral treasure and the tomb of Christopher Columbus, held high by bronze statues representing the 4 kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Aragon and Navarre, is opposite the door of San Cristobal.
An eventful day drew to a close with another flamenco performance - this time at Casa de la Memoria. Quite a different performance - quite 'raw' - in that it was of one of the earliest forms of flamenco. Also the venue was not well lit and the seating did not give the audience the same 'inclusive' feeling as at the previous night's venue.
Thursday started off quite cool but it heated up to 34 degrees in the afternoon. After a sleep in, a leisurely breakfast and a quick shopping excursion, I joined Connie for one final tour - of the Reales Alcazares - the Royal Palaces, as the site is made up of a number of buildings. All that remains of the original Moorish palace built in the 12th century is part of the walls and 2 courtyards. The highlights of this magnificent structure are the exquisite decorations which reflect the blended cultures of the time, the Salon de Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors), the collection of Flemish tapestries and the use of both mosaic tiles and glazed tiles.
After lunch in the Alcazar coffee shop, I walked from the Puerta de Jerez, passed the university, which was a tobacco factory ( featured in the Opera 'Carmen'😉 to Maria Luisa Park, where I had a brief 'siesta' under a tree, before enjoying the fountains, pavilions, bridges, monuments and Plaza de Espana.
Tonight - not another flamenco performance but a concert as part of ' Noches en Los Jardines del Real Alcazar'.

---