GRANADA

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Granada



We leave the ship and taxi to the airport. After a bit of confusion, we stow our large bag in a locker and head to the gate with our carry-on. We have hours before the flight so we stop at a café for tapas, very yummy. The day was hot and very humid and I was hoping the next day would not be that way. The flight was uneventful and the Hotel Carmen was as remembered. Our room is very large by European standards and faces the street. The view is not pretty but we can watch the street action if we want. Unpacking was a breeze. We head to the terrace for a drink and the wonderful view. I’m sure MaryLu and I ate tapas here but the menu seems to have changed and the bartender wanted us to make reservations for dinner, at least that’s what I think he suggested. His English was almost as sparse as my Spanish. Still, we had a glass of beer and wine and drank in the view of the Alcazar and the Sierra Nevada. One surprise was the lack of swallows. Last visit they swirled and glided across the sky by the dozens.

We head out to explore the neighborhood and scope out a place for dinner. After a walk down to the river and up the pedestrian Rambla to the Playa Carmen we decide on a café and order what we think are tapas. They turn out to be mini subs, the pate appears in a package similar to what usually contains cream cheese or butter. We have much too much to eat and actually, while edible, it was not up to what we have enjoyed so far. The waiter did not speak English either. We decided to make it an early night for tomorrow we visit the Alhambra. I pray for cooler weather.

My prayers are answered. The day is cool with a slight breeze. Joe thinks it’s chilly. I’m in heaven. We set out to see the sights, strolling past the Cathedral and the Columbus – Isabel fountain. We make a quick stop at the Capella de Reyes to see the tombs of Ferdinand the Catholic and Isabel, and Juana de Loco and Philip the Handsome. The alter is huge, ornate and impressive. The wrought iron especially fine and the tombs are beautifully carved marble.

We walk beyond the Plaza Nuevo and head up the back alleys. Everything is clean and neat. I love exploring the small streets, checking out the entrances to the buildings and admiring the intricate designs of the cobblestone lanes. We emerge on the banks of a large stream, the Alhambra to the right above and churches, museums, apartments and shops to the left. Where the road narrows a gentleman sings a Spanish ballad with a hint of the Moorish influence. He provided perfect background music for the neighborhood.

Its not quite lunchtime so we stop at the Plaza Nuevo for a cappuccino and vino. A complementary tapa of chicken, mushrooms and French fries in lovely spiced oil makes a great treat. Joe was thirsty to he ordered a large Pepsi and I had a second wine. Another complementary tapa appeared, this time a concoction of potato, bacon and pepper rolled into a ball, coated with breadcrumbs and deep-fried, served with a tomato sauce garnish and that was yummy too. Total price, 15e.

Lunch taken care of I spy a short bus labeled Alhambra Bus so we pay our 1.20e each and off we go but not to the Alhambra at all. Instead we pass the university and find ourselves in an area of whitewashed houses and incredible narrow lanes that twist and turn as we climb first up the mountain and then down again. This area was like the Casbah. About a half hour later we find ourselves back at the Plaza Nuevo where we started but we both enjoyed the mini tour very, very much.Now it was about entrance time for the Alhambra and we grabbed a cab.

No matter how many times I visit here I am constantly amazed and enchanted and this time Joe fell under the spell as well. The crowds were manageable and the cool breezes made walking pleasant.

Our first stop was the Genralife palace and gardens. This is a perfect introduction to the complex. The gardens were brilliant, wonderful roses and cockscomb, salvia and marigolds, inpatients and some plants that I can’t name. A fresh breeze cooled us as we made our way to the palace and Joe saw for the first time the intricate plasterwork. He examined the walls, trying to understand how it was down. In a very few areas the original paint was still visible, giving us a sense of how the palace might have originally appeared.

From there we wandered to the Palace Charles V and then waited for our turn in the Sultan’s palace. I really can’t describe the wonders of this complex; the woodwork, the plaster, the tiles, the fountains and streams, all together create a magical oasis. Always I am reminded that Katherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII grew up here before leaving for cold, damp England, never to return. That must be culture shock at it’s worst.

I could go on and on and still not convey the magic of this place. What I did discover that there is an area called the Alcazar that I have never visited. It was now after 5:00 pm and I was beyond tired so we had to put off that visit for another time.

We napped for a couple of hours and then walked around the corner to a restaurant where MaryLu, Ken, Laura, Rich and Fran enjoyed lunch. We really wanted tapas but they were only serving dinner. We were presented a “Whe englisg” menu. The items were just as imaginative to translate, i.e. Paella for two = sort of paella for two. ????? I wish I had a camera to take a picture. I can’t remember all the wonderful translations. This was not the first time that we encountered fanciful translations. There is a great market in Granada for translating Spanish menus into English.

Joe had Veal Marsala and I had a salad of shrimp, avocado and anchovy and both were delicious. The house presented a glass of Madeira, a perfect end to a great meal. The interaction between the Owner, the waitress and the owner’s wife was all the entertainment we needed, reminded us of Fawlty Towers.



All good things must come to an end.



After a wonderful buffet breakfast at the Carmen Hotel we took a last stroll around the neighborhood and then headed to the airport for our flight to Barcelona. Picked up the left luggage and grabbed a cab to the Best Western, located halfway between the airport and the port in an industrial area. After check in we headed to the terrace for a late lunch. Again much of the menu was a mystery but with the help of the waitress who had a bit of English I ended up with beef ribs that tasted like steak and wonderful grilled vegetables. Joe had sausage with the same wonderful veggies. Napped, repacked, had a drink and headed to bed. Tomorrow it’s back to the real world.

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Photos

ALHAMBRA
The Generalife palace

GRANADA
Just an alley with great cobblestone design.

GENERALIFE
Joe checks it out

NAZIR PALACE
The dance of light