Amazing Andalucía, Cadiz – March 2023

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It’s very possible to write several weighty tomes about Cadiz and still fall short of nailing its incredible essence. The city is generally considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe, founded and called Gadir by the Phoenicians around 1100 BC. Now well into its fourth millennium the ancient center, surrounded almost entirely by water, is a romantic jumble of sinuous streets where Atlantic waves crash against eroded sea walls, cheerful taverns fry up fresh fish and salty beaches teem with sun worshipping tourists and locals alike. Spain's first liberal constitution (La Pepa) was signed here in 1812, while the city's distinctive urban model provided an identikit for fortified Spanish colonial cities in the Americas of the New World. Enamored return visitors talk fondly of Cádiz' seafood, sands and intriguing monuments and museums. More importantly, they gush happily about the gaditanos, an upfront sociable bunch who’s crazy Carnaval is an exercise in ironic humor and whose upbeat flamenco songs warm the cockles of your heart.

Cadiz is an ancient port city in Spain, well known for its watchtowers, beaches, and beautiful old town. The Plaza de San Juan de Dios is a city square with a water jet, fountains, and mesmerizing architecture and it also has the Town Hall and the church of San Juan De Dios. The Cadiz Roman Theater is the oldest, the largest theater in Cadiz. Admission to this theater is free. Cadiz Cathedral is a monument that can be viewed from any part of the city and has Baroque and Neoclassical architecture. The Tower of Poniente is the cathedral's bell tower that gives excellent panoramic views of the city. The Tavira Tower is another landmark and the most visited place after the cathedral.

A Little Bit of History: known as “singeing the King of Spain’s Beard” is the derisive name given to a series of attacks by the English sea captain (one of Queen Elizbeth I “seahawks”) Sir Francis Drake against the Spanish in the summer of 1587, beginning in April of that year, with raids on Cadiz. This attack was to decimate the Spanish naval forces assembling in the Bay of Cadiz in preparation for the planned expedition against England and her heretic queen, known to history as the Spanish Armada. Much of the assembled fleet was destroyed and substantial supplies were either destroyed or captured. It is thought this specific attack delayed the Armada from sailing to England by at least a year. Drake had already embarrassed King Philip II with his actions in the West Indies, taking towns and ships at will from the pre-eminent naval power of that time. With this expedition, he had taken that affront to Philip’s doorstep, raiding along the coastline of Spain, and laying up with impunity for 3 days in Spain’s premier Atlantic seaport while he burned ships and stores. While he compounded the insult by publicly boasting that he had “singed the King of Spain’s beard”, he privately realized that his actions had only delayed not prevented a Spanish invasion, and he wrote to Elizabeth urging her to “prepare in England strongly, and mostly by sea. Stop him now and stop him forever”. As a side note, the Spanish Armada was defeated soundly by the English seahawks and their ships in the English Channel in 1588: England 1 – Spain 0. Such is life, you can’t win them all!

The HOHO bus tour here is pretty good, with a comprehensive route covering all the 14 major tourist stops. Adult tickets are approximately $25, but by showing a receipt from a previous City Sightseeing tour during the previous 12 months, a 10%!d(MISSING)iscount is applied – this always gets my vote. The next 4 hours were spent covering the entire city, alighting at the stops which appealed to me for further exploration.

My top suggestions to visit when in Cadiz:

1. The beautiful yellow-domed Cathedral is an impressively proportioned baroque-neoclassical construction, best appreciated from the seafront Campo del Sur in late day sunlight. Though commissioned in 1716, the project wasn’t completed until 1838, by which time the dome, towers, and main façade had diluted architect Vicente Acero’s original baroque plan. Highlights inside are the intricate wood-carved choir loft (one of Andalucia’s finest) and in the crypt, the stone tomb of renowned 20^th century composer Manuel de Falla. Adult tickets are about $7 but thankfully my HOHO bus ticket included entrance to the building, an audio guide, the religious treasures of the Museo Catedralicio, and a climb up the Cathedral’s Torre del Reloj, providing fabulous wraparound old-city views.

2. Admittedly it’s a little dusty in here, but the Museo de Cadiz is the province’s top museum and should be on your “must see” list. Stars of the ground floor archaeology section are two Phoenician marble sarcophagi carved in human likeness, along with lots of headless Roman statues and a giant marble 2^nd century Emperor Trajan (with head for a change!) from Bolonia’s Baelo Claudio ruins. Upstairs, the excellent fine-art collection displays Spanish art from the 18^th to the early 20^th centuries, including 18 superb 17^th century canvases of saints, angels, and monks by Francisco de Zurbaran. Equally important is the marvelous baroque altarpiece from the chape of Cadiz Convento de Capuchinas, which cost artist Bartolome Esteban Murillo his life when he fell from its scaffolding in 1682. Entrance for EU citizens and locals is free - $1.50 for everyone else including tourists.

3. Talk a walk or jog along the promenade from the Barrio de Santa Maria. This fine wide strip of Atlantic sand offers summer beach bars and starts about a mile south of the Puerta de Tierra and stretches some 4 miles back along the peninsula. Take bus #1 from Plaza de Espana or bus #7 from Playa de la Caleta or Campo del Sur to Playa de la Victoria – tickets are $1.50.

4. On the seaward edge of the Barrio del Pópulo, the Roman theatre dates from the late 1^st century and originally had space for 10,000 spectators. A Moorish castle was later erected here, then rebuilt by Alfonso X El Sabio. You access the excavated theatre via its modern interpretation center, which has English- and Spanish-language displays detailing the site's history. A great photo-op here. Entrance for EU citizens and locals is free - $1.50 for everyone else including tourists.

Centuries-old castles, rust-red-roofed homes, white-walled alleys, soul-stirring strategic cliff-top sites and an enthrallingly volatile history: this is Cadiz’ pueblos blancos (white towns) are a joy to unravel. The finest can be perfectly strung together on a multi-day drive. Andalucia bursts with beautifully blanches villages – originally (unromantically) whitewashed in the 19^th century to deflect the strong sunlight and to disinfect. But it's those in Cadiz province, particularly in the northeast, that have awarded themselves with the official title of “white towns”. For two centuries between the Christian conquests of Seville in 1248 and of the final Muslim emirate Granada in 1492, these fortified towns straddled the ever-changing Christian-Muslim frontier.

There’s magic in the air in gorgeous Vejer, perched in windswept whiteness atop a rocky crag about 55 miles southeast of Cadiz. Like its fellow “de la frontera” (on the frontier) towns, Vejer hums with historical intrigue and a tangible Moorish influence. Original stone gateways and 15^th century defensive walls pop up around the tangled old town, watched over by the restored 10^th or 11^th century Moorish castle. But Vejer is also an understated foodie hotspot and boutique-hotel haven of Andalucia. Drop by the smartly reimagined Mercado de Abastos for sherry and tapas, both classic and creative. Savor expertly executed Moroccan-Andalucian cuisine at labyrinthine El Jardin del Califa; and try local ingredients in inventive seasonal concoctions at Corredera 55. You can hone your culinary skills with food tours and cooking classes courtesy of Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen.

If you had to pick just one destination to fulfill your white-town dreams, it would probably be Arcos de la Frontera. Strewn across a sheer-sided crag, 65 miles north of Vejer, much-admired Arcos tells a turbulent story that saw it go from an independent 11^th century Berber-ruled Taifa (small kingdom) to Christian stronghold. Wander the old town’s web of slim, evocative streets and call in at Plaza del Cabildo. Here are Arcos’ luxurious parador (a state-owned, top end hotel), and a 11^th century castle (now closed to visitors). Pop into splendid Gothic-baroque churches and then retreat into the lively world of Arcos’ classically Andalucian tapas bars. Taberna Jovenes Flamencos rustles up traditional favorites with contemporary flair amid glowing flamenco-bullfighting décor.

Just when you thought you had the white towns sussed out, along comes sleepy (though increasingly popular) Setenil de las Bodegas. No cliff-top defenses here: people delved deep into caves for protection instead. The idea worked so brilliantly that it took a 15-day siege for the Christians to recapture Setenil from the Moors in 1484. The 12^th century castle still stands, as do plenty of original cave-houses. Some have been reincarnated as vibrant bars and restaurants.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Architecture
The beauty and colors of the architecture are amazing.