“They used to hold Beer Fest in Kalemegdan, until a guy fell into the zoo and got eaten by a bear…. Oh, and here is the Roman well; a tourist fell in and died….” I had been told that Serbia was quite safe these days, but apparently wandering around the sprawling citadel complex of Kalemedgan in Belgrade is not for the faint-hearted. If I was to believe these stories my friend Duscia was telling me, this was treacherous territory indeed. Actually, I found Belgrade, and Serbia in general, about as warm and welcoming – and safe! – as one could hope for. I was visiting mainly to indulge in some Ottoman tourism (see my blog entry at: http://boundarystones.blogspot.com/2012/08/ottoman-ghosts-1-serbia.html), but I had the added bonus of getting to see, if briefly, a Serbian friend from Khartoum. And
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