Olga the landlady

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I was met at Irkutsk station by Lena a local Russian lady who was to take me to my homestay accommodation. I thought that it would be a good idea to experience a piece of the real Russia and stay with a local family for a few nights, something at that moment I was regretting.

The night on the train from Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk had been tough, I had little sleep and we were woken at 5am by the attendant who wanted to get the toilets cleaned before we pulled into our final destination at 7am!

I was leaving the Aussie sisters who had upgraded and were off to a hotel for a few nights before we met again. A short car journey later found me at the homestay. I was in shock as I studied the block of flats where I would be staying. A typical soviet building, all square with no character or appeal, I did not like the look of it at all. Keeping my nerve I was led inside by Lena and up to flat 7 on the third floor. I was greeted by Olga (her real name apparently) the landlady. She barked at me to take my shoes off, get my rucksack out of her hall and into my room and to have a shower before breakfast!

Clean and refreshed I went into the kitchen and sat at the table with Olga and her daughter. She had prepared a pancake type of thing, I managed to nibble my way through one and a quarter but left the other three whilst making conversation about world affairs and the economic downturn. Olga was a lovely lady who spoke excellent English and made me feel very welcome.

I was very cold all day, the wind was icy cold and relentless. I had underestimated how hard the Russian language would be to understand and master. Undeterred I explored the city, visiting the local museum (just to warm up) and walked to the River Angara, the only river to leave Lake Biakal. Irkutsk is considered the capital city of Eastern Siberia and has a significant history with the trans - Siberian railway. There are a number of old wooden houses still in use in the city and they are stunning. The city is busy and busling with markets and traders on every corner and not a McDonald's or Starbucks in sight.

Ten days ago I was putting factor fifty on my head and wishing I had bought some shorts with me. Today I am frozen and cold like I have never been before. I went off to bed wishing for sunshine in the morning.

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