Irkutsk

Irkutsk

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July 30th 2018

Published: July 30th 2018

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MrsMac

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Church of St Saviour

Saturday morning, after a sleep in and breakfast, we arrived in the city of Irkutsk at 10-45. We were met by our local guide, Larisa, who was to be with us for two days. We first drove across the river, Angara, and stopped at a beautiful park containing two churches and monuments to other saints and heroes. I immediately felt drawn to this place, it has a life and spirit to it that we had not seen in the other three cities we have visited along the way. St Saviour’s church was an imposing sight with a tall bell tower and icons painted as mosaics on the outer walls. In front was a memorial to people whose graves had been found when they rebuilt the church after its destruction by Communists during the Soviet era. Unfortunately, we could not enter as there was a baptismal ceremony being held.

From there we saw a statue of Sts Peter and Fevronia, Russian saints with an interesting legend surrounding them. Fevronia is said to have great healing powers and there is a rabbit at the back of the statue whose nose everyone rubs for good luck and health. In the middle of the

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Another view of St Saviour's

square outside the church, was an eternal flame, a memorial for the soldiers who died in the Great Patriotic War, aka WW2. Walking down to the river there was another statue of a war hero, A.P. Beleborodov, who came from this city. The river bank itself is a great place for recreation and there were many families out enjoying the sunshine on this Saturday morning. Along the waterfront was a large statue of a Cossack. These men were the founders of the city and opened up the area for settlement in the 1660s. There were also a number of wedding parties. It is traditional for the bride and groom to visit the gardens and the statue of the saints for photos and a number of wedding cars with either gold rings or caged doves on top were waiting for their newlyweds.

Across the road was another brightly painted church, the Church of the Epiphany. This time, we could go inside and we were able to take photos as there was no service going on The walls are brightly painted with icons and the iconastasis was glorious in its gold and colourful pictures of the saints. The whole area around

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Mural on St Saviour's

here is pleasant and well kept. One thing we have noticed in all these places that there is no litter and very little graffiti. They are obviously, very proud of their cities and keep them looking good.

Our next stop was at another small church, the convent of Holy Martyrs. Around the grounds were buried many of the Decembrists, exiled to Siberia after an uprising in the early 1820s, trying to end serfdom. These were mainly aristocrats who sought relief for the poor. The Tsar repressed their efforts and they spent many years in exile in Irkutsk, some of their wives joining them. We had a group photo on the steps of the church there. Another local hero’s statue is also here. He fought with the White Army against the Bolsheviks. Larisa proudly told us they recognise all who have done brave things here.

Then it as off to the local markets. Again, there was an abundance of food. The most prominent comestibles on display were berries. Larisa had explained that they did not grow much fruit in this area, but in summer everyone loved to go to the forest o pick berries and mushrooms. Stalls selling all

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Saint Peter and Fevronia

kind of berries dominated the market. There was also the fish, much of it dried, meat, spices and the usual clothes and shoe stalls. From there we were taken to another part of the river bank where there was a large recreational square dominated by a statue of Alexander 3^rd. There was also a beautiful fountain if front of a structure that Larisa told us was based on the Sydney Opera house. Many families were taking advantage of the morning sun and strolling along the riverbank. A very attractive area.

We then had lunch in a very nice restaurant, then went to our hotel, the Courtyard, Marriot to check n and relax for an hour, after which we drove to a section of the city that has been restored. The small wooden houses which dominate the villages we have seen along the railway tracks, were also initially the main heart of the city. Though many have been knocked down, this section has been preserved and turned into a shopping and restaurant area, called Baba. This is a great place, with a huge statue of what purports to be a Siberian tiger with a sable in its mouth, at the

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Rabbit on the statue

entrance. Here we were given free time. The most important local stone here is cheriot, a purple stone found only in the Irkutsk and Lake Baikal area. It is quite expensive, but unique and Fletcher insisted I buy something. I found a simple pair of earrings which were not too dear and was very happy with them. After also shopping in the supermarket for chocolates and a birthday card for our guide Olga who turns 29 on the 3st, we found a nice café for a cold beer. I certainly have been keeping up the 6,000 steps a day and most days have gone over that.

Then it was off to the Decembrists museum .This , was originally the house of Maria Volonsky, the wife of one of the Decembrists, who followed her husband to Siberia leaving her children in the care of her mother. The house is furnished in the 19^th century style and contains many original artefacts. If this was exile in Siberia, it was not too bad!!. The house is large and comfortable and she had many soirees and dinners for friends here. After touring the house we were shown to the salon where we were

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Eternal flame and war memorial

thoroughly entertained by a short concert of classical music. First, a pianist played Chopin, then a soprano sang a Russian folk song, a tenor then joined her for a traditional Russian duet and then he sang by himself. They were all fantastic and it was pleasant sitting there , in candlelight, transported to the 19^th century and the icing on the cake was free champagne at the end!! A wonderful finish to what had been a busy, but enjoyable day.

We went back to the Marriot for dinner and then a good night’s sleep in very comfortable surrpundings

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