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Published: October 25th 2006
Winter Palace
Magnificent hall with gold everywhereThe vast stretch of land linking Finland and Russia forms the largest border in Europe. The border between the two countries was only fifty kilometres from St Petersburg in 1940, and this is believed to be a major reason for the Red Army attacking and defeating Finland during the early stages of World War ll, despite heroic resistance from the Finns. I took the six hour train trip from Helsinki to St Petersburg, which starkly illustrates just how close St Petersburg is to the rest of Europe. This strategically important and beautiful European city is very rich in history. In 1941 the Nazis suddenly invaded Russia, thereby breaking the non-aggression pact between the two great powers. Yet they failed to take Leningrad (modern day St Petersburg) despite a 900 day siege. The Siege of Leningrad was a bleak chapter in Russian history which led to a staggering loss of life, but holding firm during the terrible siege is still a great source of pride for the Russian people. During the early stages of the invasion on the eastern front the Soviet army melted away into the vast expanses of the world's largest country, dismantling factories and equipment to take with them
as the Nazi war machine pressed further and further east into the motherland. But inevitably the Russian winter set in and slowed the Nazi advance, just as it had stopped the army of Napoleon.
I arrived at Finlandia station, dear reader, where a giant mural of Lenin celebrates the moment in 1917 when he returned to the station in triumph after the overthrow of the last Tsar. He then went on to lead the Bolsheviks to power in the second revolution. In 1918 after assuming the reigns of power he relocated the Russian capital back to Moscow, because of the proximity of St Petersburg to hostile foreign powers. So there I am standing at the Metro station and trying to master my cryillic (you can forget about station names in English) when I quickly learnt that Russia is not a country to dawdle in, as a Babushka can have you effortlessly cast aside with a judiciously placed elbow to the ribs. I decided I'd better get on with it, as everyone in the metro of this city of five million people was moving like on a giant conveyor belt so I strode out also, but almost certainly in the
wrong direction. But as I always say when travelling ... if you're gonna get lost, do it with style! The following day I strode out boldly again while searching for the Eurolines office, with a map and directions from the friendly St Petersburg International hostel staff, only to get hopelessly lost again. Russia is not easy to get around with only cyrillic signs to rely on, no matter how much you have travelled! But that's part of the fun...
A Russian girl went out of her way to help me, walking with me to the metro, buying tickets and seeing me to the correct platform. I can tell you it was a reluctant parting of company on my part. There must be something in the water of St Petersburg other than the giardia the Lonely Planet warns of, as Russian women are truly extraordinary. They have an indefinable je ne sais quoi that sets them apart, perhaps best described as a haughty set to the mouth that only enhances their astounding beauty. However when you delve beyond the youth, when you delve beyond the beauty; you will find a national tragedy is unfolding in Russia as I write.
The Oscar Wilde quote I used for the journal's title was probably made in jest, but there is often an underlying sting in the tail when a genius writes. The modern tragedy of Russia sees the mighty bear slowly eating herself alive, with the average life expectancy of males being 57 years, thereby having a devastating effect on the productivity of the nation. Deaths from alcohol related illness and other preventable diseases are cutting a swathe through Russian men in their prime, and despite the huge wealth generated by abundant oil and other natural resources, the scarcely believable tragedy goes on unabated. Progress on these health issues seems to be painfully slow in modern day Russia.
So, how then to describe St Petersburg? I think magnificent is a good starting point. Without a doubt this is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, with gorgeous architecture abounding in the grid around the canals and the river. The mighty Winter Palace is indeed a sight to behold, as is the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, and of course a visit to the world famous Hermitage Museum within the Palace is a must on any travellers agenda. When
The Great Peter and Catherine, St Petersburg
Strolling along the Palace Square in traditional attire you scratch below the surface, I've found Russian people are friendly and helpful. There is one oddity in this beautiful city, however, that I would like to share with you, and that's the amazingly filthy cars. I believe a budding entrepreneur could make a motza here by starting a car wash business tarting up the Ladas. Try to imagine the filthiest car you have seen in your home town (Russian readers excluded!) and that is the norm in St Petersburg. There is dirt layered on dirt layered on more dirt on the cars, I swear some of those vehicles have never been washed. But it's all part of the fascination that is Russia where, basically all of you should be here now!
Only one clear quality marks an action as either good or evil: If it increases the amount of love in the world, it is good. If it separates people and creates animosity among them, it is bad." Leo Toltstoy
As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now
Tom
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bernie
non-member comment
nice entry
sounds very interesting