Back in the Days. The Grandeur of Russian Empire. Parks and Palaces near St. Petersburg - Pushkin

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This time I will write about several towns in the St. Petersburg area, namely Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Lomonosov (Oranienbaum), Gatchina, Kronshtadt and Peterhof (Vyborg is also to be included here; perhaps I will go there this autumn; there are no photos available from my previous trip there). It will be quite a task to remember something, because my first trip there was in 2008. I decided not to make it into one single story (because I haven’t yet learned to use the function of making trips on this site), but the various stories should be considered together, they constitute a single entity unified by time, place and the character (small towns having large parks built by and for great Russian emperors). There will be actually little description of the towns themselves, since the major tourist attractions are the palaces and the parks. However, Kronshadt seems to fall out of that category - there are no emperor’s palaces there, if I’m not mistaken. But that’s not what the town is famous for.

Pushkin

At the beginning of September, 2008, I decided to go to Pushkin and have a quick walk there - to see, what it is. However, the town and its park and the Yekaterininsky palace turned out to be so great that I spent the whole day there. At first I did not think of going inside the palace, but when I saw the exterior grandeur of it - there was only one decision to make. People were not allowed there alone, but only within a group of 15 or so. The park itself (and all the other parks in all the other towns that I’m going to dwell on) is a masterpiece of landscaping. I was very excited to walk there, it was my first visit to St. Petersburg roundabouts (except Peterhof) and I liked the park so much I decided to walk across the whole of it (actually, that’s pretty impossible during one day because, first, you spend about two hours in the Yekaterinisnky Palace and, second, the park is so large that you couldn’t do it so quickly; besides, there’s another palace there (I don’t remember the name). That was the beginning of my everlasting wish to see something new - I visited 5 towns in September alone, if my memory serves me right. Oh, there is also Strelna (very close to the city) and it also has the Konstantinovsky Palace. I got there, but failed to go inside the palace because it was a day off - please try and find its official website, because I remember that people are admitted there only in groups. It was not raining very much during that season, so it was pure pleasure.


The romantic feelings of that period are connected with a girl (see story about Krasnoyarsk) and I remember very vividly how I communicated with her via the internet during my walks… Hopefully, that all ended quite abruptly and predictably.


The Yekaterininsky palace was designed by the famous Rastrelli. That’s the grandeur (I use this word for the second time) of the Russian empire! Is it necessary to describe the palace? I should say no, because you definitely will come to St. Petersburg sooner or later, and its “suburbs” are a must (not quite sure about the word “suburbs” here). Here is a list of adjectives: grand, stunning, superb, magnificent, excellent, perfect, astounding etc. I remember that I had to wait for an hour or so, because it was not the opening hour yet. The entrance fee was 300 (or 350?..) rubles (in 2008). How clearly I remember those days! It was autumn already, and no pleasure could be greater and more restful that to visit the palace and the park. The joys of art, the brilliance of the architecture and the palace interiors, the spirit of history and the magic of colours! The guide will take you through the palace’s halls and rooms telling everything about them while you are looking at the splendor of it with your mouth open (perhaps closed, who knows) and perhaps you will have the goose bumps. Those are the best places in the whole Russia, may be (naturally, because that’s what the emperors did for themselves - and emperors usually waste no time and effort for luxury).


Buy a map - so you’ll be able to see other attractions in the park. Distances are not short there; I managed to see only a part of the park. The pictures of the palace’s rooms and halls might be a bit disappointing due to their quality; however, I looked through them and found them satisfactory and attractive. If you know about Russian art, culture and history, perhaps you’ll be familiar with the name of the famous Yantarnaya Komnata (the Amber Room) - it might be called the most interesting area of the palace (in addition to the great hall, see photo - my personal opinion). It was forbidden to take pictures in this room. I did - I simply held the camera in my hand as I stood there and listened and then I pressed the button... I simply wouldn’t go out without a photo. There was a flash (gee, I didn’t switch it off) and so I was afraid lest somebody should come and arrest me. But no one seemed to have noticed. See how the photo is “inclined”, so to say. This story will be also accompanied with 1 video.


After the palace I, with a felling of complete satisfaction and delight and admiration, went to explore the park itself. I will not write the names of the places that I don’t remember. In 2008 many attractions needed restoration; perhaps by now they’ve been renovated. There are statues, some monuments, and other buildings. There is also a large pond in the park. Be sure to look at the “Chinese Village” (I don’t know whether people are allowed inside). While walking in the park, I saw many ducks. Also, if there is enough time, go to the Alexander Palace. I remember that when the guided tour of the palace was over, I saw several photos on the walls depicting how the palace looked after the Great Patriotic War (heavily destroyed) and I also read a sad statement saying that many, many areas of the palace still needed restoration. Of course, they are working on that.


There is little adventure in walking in a quiet green park, is there? All in all, the map shows 44 attractions, I saw perhaps a little more than a half of them. A treat, is it not? Here are some of the names: the Kameronova Gallery, the Kagulsky Obelisk, the Great Chinese Bridge, the Lower Bath, the Hermitage Pavillion, the Chapelle Tower and many more.


My conclusion is that there are few places like that in Russia. You’ll find a very distinctive mixture of elements there: a huge park, a palace, places where the Russian noblesse amused themselves, lived and performed other activities; fine works of art in the Yekaterininsky Palace and examples of landscape architecture. Of course, there will be the peace and quiet of the forest for you. I can say only one thing to crown it all - come and experience that for yourselves.

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Photos

The Amber Room
forbidden to take pictures