PORTUGAL EL CAMINO

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HIKING THE PORTUGAL EL CAMINO



LISBON

The El Camino; these are magic words to me ever since I first learned about the many pilgrimage routes that wend through Europe to the Cathedral in Santiago, Spain. In 2017, my daughter, Lauren, and I hiked the French Way, starting in St. Jean Pied de Porte in France. After forty-five grueling days and five hundred miles, we arrived in Santiago. Though exhausting, it was a trip of a lifetime.

Ever since that trip I've wanted to go again. I read about many different routes to Santiago but I liked the Portuguese Camino because much of it borders the sea. Most pilgrims start the Portugal walk in Lisbon or Porto, both World Heritage cities. Since I have more time I wanted to start in Lisbon; the city is full of castles and beautiful churches. My daughter, Lauren, was interested but unconvinced. She is still working and was not sure she wanted to use up all her vacation walking the trail in Portugal.

I studied Portuguese on Babbel, the computer language app, during the Covid shutdown in anticipation of the trip. As soon as travel started up again, I began planning for this trip. I bought my ticket and packed. At the last minute, Lauren decided to join me in Porto ten days later. I knew I couldn’t cover the miles between Lisbon and Porto in only ten days, so I added ten additional days to my trip to finish the walk after Lauren returns to the US. I made reservations for the first day or two at a Hostel in Lisbon called Yes!

Lauren dropped me off at the airport on September 7. I watched movies and relaxed during the flight landing in Frankfurt at night. I had a long layover there before flying to Portugal the next day. In the terminal, I found myself alone in an empty, cold barn of a place with no signs, surrounded by small, closed cafes and shops. My phone needed charging, and I asked a construction worker if he knew where I could charge my phone. He let me use his charger. I napped on and off, sitting on a bench near the outlet, watching the workers change the giant murals on the walls advertising airplane travel destinations.

In the morning, with a fully charged phone, I found some tea, a new attitude, and my gate.

In Lisbon I caught a taxi to the Hostel, Yes! and met Sandra from Amsterdam, walking out the door. She wanted me to join her on a day trip to a distant castle, but it was just too much, too fast. Instead, after checking in, I visited the Lisbon Cathedral and then took a bus to Sao Jorge Castle and Museum. I was astonished to see numerous peacocks in the towering trees. I didn’t know these big birds could fly so high. I walked a long way, smelling the roses. I bought a fresh fruit cup from a street cart and then chatted with a young man from Guinea. He played drums, sharing the music of his homeland. I purchased an unusual Portuguese coin necklace from him, then walked back down the long winding streets to the hostel.

Yes! Is a great place for your first few days in Lisbon. The dorms are clean and there are vending machines for snacks. Laundry and meals are available and there are shops nearby. I made myself comfortable in the Common room, resting and writing emails. Then Sandra returned from her excursion and asked me to join her for dinner. She took us to The Market, a moving river of diners in an enormous building; each of the multiple small restaurants sells specialty foods. I chose steak and fries, and we shared travel stories. She is in Lisbon to attend a yoga seminar that requires a fast tomorrow, so tonight, we will eat, drink, and be merry.

After dining, Sandra took us to a small, crowded bar to listen to Fado music. The bar was packed; no seats left, but one table very close to the entertainer welcomed us and invited us to squeeze in beside them. While researching this trip, I read about Fado, but since I don't go to bars alone, I thought I would miss the opportunity to hear it. I was thrilled to experience the music with her. The gray-haired singer sang folk songs with unexpected off-color endings that had the crowd flushing and laughing. Of course, I didn't understand the language or the jokes, but I enjoyed the crowd's response and the glee on the older man's face as he delivered the unexpected punch line. Two young, talented guitarists provided the accompaniment. After the first set, we meandered back to the hostel; the night air was warm under the streetlights. I fell into bed around midnight. It had been a long day.

I awoke on my first day to walk the El Camino and lay in bed enjoying the comfort of my bunk, leaving space in the narrow room for the other three dorm mates to get organized and out the door. Then I had to hurry in order to leave the room by 10:30. My pack was heavy, and I worried about the miles I needed to cover that day. I gathered strength with a big breakfast and plenty of water, picked up my backpack, and left the hostel.

I immediately got lost.

I walked more than ten miles and could not find a bed for the night. It was late in the season, and the Portugal Camino was not well-signed. To make it even more difficult, Lisbon is thick with industrial areas; the trail is interrupted with huge factories covering several blocks, making it difficult to stay on the path. Along the way, I poured over lists of albergues, hostels dedicated to pilgrims walking to the Cathedral in Santiago Spain but due to Covid, many were closed.

On my way to the metro, I met Agira, a tall, voluptuous college student who models part-time. Making small talk, I said, "It must be fun to wear designer clothes and exotic make-up." Confidently, she said, "Oh, I don't usually wear clothing." So much for small talk. She was a surprising and entertaining diversion from my travel difficulties. She helped me with instructions for riding the metro and gave me directions to a hostel. It was also closed.

At eight o'clock at night, with a dead phone, tired and hungry, I stopped at a steak restaurant, and a young waiter put my phone on their charger. I ordered a filet mignon and sweet potato fries. After my meal, I went outside to call booking.com. I didn't know where I was, so I asked a young couple sitting nearby what part of the city this was. The man took the search in hand and found me a place not far away for a budget price. I was so lucky. It was an Airbnb in an office building with shared bathrooms, but the room was clean, and the bed was comfortable. I slept till 11 am!

I was the only guest left, and the house cleaner, Maria, was instructing a young girl how to iron the clean sheets. We had a limited conversation in the kitchen as I was making tea. I was overwhelmed with how different and difficult this El Camino was. Already I was feeling inept with my travels. I told Maria I was thinking of calling the whole project off. I could catch a taxi to Fatima and wait for Lauren to arrive. Maria was stunned; she encouraged me to continue, telling me how easy it was to find the trail. She drove me just around the block to The Torre Vasco de Gama, a tower built as part of Expo '98. The whole area was tourist-friendly, with restaurants to the right, and, best of all there was a sign to the left marking the El Camino route. She was a lifesaver.

I chose a restaurant… the waiter glanced at my pack and squeezed me in before the lunch rush. I ordered my favorite; a Caprese salad and a dish of olives; the meal included a mushroom paste and little, multi-colored bread sticks. Customers with reservations started to arrive, so I took my tea to a little park across the street. I glanced up and saw a tram ride advertisement. I purchased a ticket and enjoyed the short ride and incredible views. From the station platform, I tried to take a panoramic photo of the longest bridge in Europe, the Vasco da Gama Bridge, 7.5 miles long. A handsome young couple offered to take my picture with the bridge in the background. They had never heard of the El Camino and were very interested in my travels.

My day was such a contrast to the previous day. I continued walking the path leisurely and stopped to enjoy an ice cream. Eventually, I came to a busy road, crossed an overpass, and turned to the left, following the trail which dropped steeply down toward the river. I paid no attention to the sign, just that it said Camino, so I had no idea how long this path was. Take note: check the mileage; the course followed the river for five miles or more. I met no pedestrians. A few bicyclists whizzed by. There seemed to be no exit, no water, and no place to sit down and rest. I thought I would never get back to civilization.

Finally, a cyclist with children paused and told me there was a small table and benches for picnics 300 feet ahead. I continued for another hour and gave up. I pushed aside some thistles, sat on the side of the trail, and snacked. In the distance was a high ridge with homes looking down on the river, but there was no way to reach them. Another half hour and I came upon the table and benches. It was getting dark when I passed a shepherd bringing his flock back from pasture. I struck up a conversation with another young man walking his dog. He told me there was a hostel in the little village I was approaching.

Streetlights I hadn't even noticed came on to light my way. The first sign of human habitation was a small convenience store. The owner had just locked the doors and was getting in his car. I needed water and he obligingly re-opened his store. We chatted a bit, and the store owner, Nafeez, told me the local hostel was closed. I asked him how far it was to the next one. He said there was one about five miles away and offered to drive me there. I was completely exhausted, so I thanked him and agreed to take him up on his offer. We found the hostel and it was also closed. A woman on the street told us she was sure Dormidas Silvina, in the next village, was open so Nafeez drove on. Thank goodness there were lights and a host at the hostel’s front desk. I thanked Nafeez again and gave him a tip for the ride. He asked me to tell people he was there to help Pilgrims walking the Camino in Portugal. He was a true "trail angel."

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Photos

LISBON CATHEDRAL
My first walk about in Lisbon. I bought our Camino Passports here.

SAO JORGE CASTLE
And Museum. There is so much to see.

MUSICIAN FROM GUINEA
I enjoyed listening to this music, and I bought an amazing necklace here, as well.

SANTA JUSTA LIFT
This is an elevator that connects the lower streets with Camo Square. There is an excellent view from the top.

MARIA GAVE ME A PEP TALK
And drove me to Torre Vasca da Gama and sent me on my way. Thanks.

TORRE VASCA DE GAMA
Maria dropped me off here to start my third day of walking the El Camino in Lisbon.
The site of the 1988 Lisbon World Exposition.

EXCELLENT GREEK RESTAURANT
Next to the Vasca de Gama tower. One of my all-time favorite meals: Capreze Salad with vegetable-based bread sticks.

OVERHEAD TRAM
Short gondola ride from the Expo.

WONDERFUL SUPPORTIVE LOCALS
Now living in the States, these newlyweds were so supportive and interested in the El Camino.

VASCO DA GAMA BRIDGE
Some lovely visitors offered to take a picture of me in front of the bridge.

TERRAIN BY THE RIVER
Never-ending stroll by the river. I thought I would never find my way out.

RESTING IN THE THISTLES
Finally stopped and ate my leftovers on the trail by the river.

PICNIC AREA
Supposedly only 300 yards down the road. Maybe 3 miles,