Portugal via London - 2

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Our little 'sojourn' in Lisbon.

The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the second) describe our journey from our departure from Oz, our arrival in London from the 3rd week of May and onto to Portugal for a journey into the Portuguese culture and landscape. In the few weeks available to us, we cannot experience 'everything'. Even so, we'll do our best to enjoy all that is available.



This 'episode' describes our Lisbon 'experience.



We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.



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Monday 29th May 2017.

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Today we flew from London to Lisbon. With a late morning flight, we took our time getting to Heathrow. That said, the weather had turned decidedly cool and where we intended to amble from the apartment to Hammersmith tube station, we scurried along to keep warm.



After Heathrow, Lisbon airport is so laid-back. After purchasing a subway card, we headed towards our destination station - Cais Do Sodre aside the Rio Tejo (or, River Tagus; more a huge estuary than a river). From the station it was a short walk to our accommodation in the coastal part of Barrio Alto, an older part of Lisbon. The street - or should we say laneway - was exceeding narrow. The 3 story dwellings towered over, and residents leaning from a window on one side could almost touch those doing the same on the other side. We made ourselves comfortable and set about exploring the local neighbourhood. While a good number of people still reside in the area, it is getting gentrified with food and artisan retail outlets servicing those with a few Euro in their pockets.

Tuesday 30th May 2017.

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Heading off into a blue sky day, we had intended to catch the cute small tram into the nearby city, pick up a sim card and head out to a Palace. As we approached the tram stop, it was just departing. Given the traffic ahead we deduced we may walk to the next tram stop before it arrived. Not quite, but it was a steady walk to nearly catch it. The Lisbon footpaths are made of roughly hewn 75mm 'squares' of marble and are quite slippery. Running to catch the tram was out of the question. We nearly caught it in the city centre, but that's where we wanted to go! Along the route we noted side streets careering down/up the hillside. Some had Fenicular railcars. Clearly the street we were walking had a lesser grade than most!



After organising a data sim card, we headed to Rossio (Rossio means central square) train station to buy a ticket and head off. Using an app map, we got to where we wanted to go, but the steep streets of Lisbon suggested we may have taken the most direct route but also the hilliest. The sets of stairs up and down challenged our legs!



Once on the train, we headed off to our destination - Palacio Nacioanal e Jardins de Quelez - it being an 18th century Baroque folly. We'd given ourselves an example in London; start with parks rather than 'do' the city. Getting ourselves to the 'estate' (some 15km from the city) meant negotiating the train and wandering from the destination station to the 'estate'. Fortunately, much of the journey was through a local park - it made our journey so much easier (than negotiating suburbia).



The 'estate' palace demonstrated to us yet again the wealth expended by those in power. And, as successive rulers sought to outdo other monarchs with 'grand' estates, these dwellings also demonstrate the relative suffering the ordinary citizen had to endure to pay the price of these 'estates'. No wonder the goals of Socialism and other equality-based ideologies took such a firm hold amongst the populace. It's sad that the exercise of force by these rulers to demonstrate their power against the protesters resulted in more tragedy amongst the taxpayers.



After following the 'circuit' through the interior display of excessively ostentatious baroque 'foibles', we moved to the garden; an equally extravagant exercise. So labour intensive was the (garden) design that in recent years it has largely fallen into disrepair due to a lack of funds. At the time, it would have been spectacular. Even now, the hedged mazes, radiating paths and shady trees made for a delightful stroll on this warm sunny afternoon. We ventured further from the 'status' garden to the 'parks'. These were then used for hunting and fruit production. Wanting a lemon for dinner, it was easy to find amongst the variety of trees. We wondered why the fruit of these trees appeared to be left to fall and rot; surely someone could put it to good use!



Getting late in the afternoon we departed the 'estate' back through the local park and to the train station. After a short ride, we were back in Lisbon. We'd spied a craft beer venue near the station when departing so headed up a long flight of stairs to enjoy what Lisbon had to offer. That we returned the next day indicates what we thought of the nectar!

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Wednesday 31st May 2017.

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We awoke later than anticipated. With the 'community' noise in the laneway, we'd closed all the windows for quiet and weren't disturbed by early morning noise.



Wanting to go (west) along the coastal suburbia to Belem, we set our destination into the phone app to learn a bus departed from just around the corner.



Belem is famous for at least 2 attractions; the Mosterio dos Jeronimos and the Pasteis de Belem.



The monastery is said to be the best example of Portuguese late Gothic Manueline style of architecture. We knew nothing of the Manueline style of architercture so this was the excuse to go visit Belem.



To be honest, the primary reason was to go to the 'traditional' home of the Portuguese tart; the Pastel de nata.



After alighting from the bus, we headed straight to the pastry shop. It was about 11:30 and there was a longish queue. We were advised the queue is many times longer around 10am. We duly got some Portuguese tarts and headed to the nearby park to consume. In the box was also a sachet of cinnamon powder and another sachet of icing sugar. Apparently, one dusts with the sugar, then the cinnamon, and tucks in. Given the tarts are about 75mm in diameter, 'tucking in' meant two bites. They were heavenly. They were like nothing we'd ever had before. The pastry was a mere 1mm thick and crispy. The custard wasn't sweet, rather rich and creamy. And, it wasn't thick; being almost liquid enough to appear to run out if we didn't take care. We read the original recipe emerged as Monks and Nuns sought ways to use waste egg yolks; the whites being used to stiffen religious garments. In Belem, the Pastel de Nata are served warm.



After savouring the tarts, we headed towards the monastery. There, a long queue snaked away from the Cathedral entrance. Only when we got to the entrance did we realise that the queue were in search of the museum; the cathedral had no entry charge. We'd read that the Manueline style of architecture embraced Moorish (Nth African Islamic) artistry. After viewing, we could see why. Though the basic building structure is Gothic, the motifs around the windows and doors and in the interior pillar decoration are elaborate and flowing.



There is an upstairs level in the cathedral and we asked how we could access it. We were told it was via the monastery. As there appeared no access to the monastery from around the cathedral entrance, using our phone we thought it may be from around the rear (along a side street). We made our way around the streets but found no access. Using the phone app, we could see there was a park nearby with a view across the area. The street was wide and the grade reasonably OK, so we proceeded onwards. We were really enjoying the streetscape of Jacaranda and Linden trees. Both were in flower, the Jacaranda giving much colour and the Linden the most beautiful perfume. Unlike Italy, the Linden here were not as strongly perfumed. We figured it was the result of the ever-present breeze. Still enjoyable, but!



We reached the summit and had a good view across the Rio Tejo (or River Tagus). We then made our way down the hill towards the waters edge. There, another Manueline building exists in the water. Built in the 16th century, the Torre de Belem was once a defensive fortification in the middle of the Tagus estuary. At that time, the cathedral was at the waters' edge. Now, siltation has almost engulfed the tower. And, enabled Belem to have a grande riverside parkspace.



Continuing along the foreshore, we came across a vendor offering sit-down Segway's. We both thought it'd be fun and shared a few moments of hilarity aboard. Eventually we made our way back to Pasties de Belem for a coffee and another Pastel de nata. Then, with a huge number of other tourists, we got on a very crowded tram to make our way east to the (Lisbon) city centre. We alighted at the Praca do Comercio as it was listed as a tourist attraction. Tourist attraction it is - hordes of them! Even so, in the late afternoon sun with buskers entertaining it was still an enjoyable space. We made our way under an arch and along Rua Agusta (the main retail street) northwards towards the craft beer outlet we'd enjoyed the previous evening.



After some liquid refreshment, we made our way to the Mercado da Ribeira, which while once home to a thriving fresh food market has now one section converted into a 'meal' market. The huge space is filled with tables + chairs/benches + stools and around the perimeter are an amazing array of restaurant outlets. Apparently, the developer convinced upmarket restaurants to invest in a small kitchen offering a limited range of wares. The result (and experience) is sensational (and relatively inexpensive).



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Thursday 1st June 2017.

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Up bright and early today as we are off to Sintra, some 25km to the west of Lisbon. We'd been along the same train line the previous day so getting to the station wasn't a problem. Getting our 'swipe' rail passes reloaded was an issue; the station had hordes of likeminded tourists either wanting to recharge or buy a ticket. The queues appeared endless. Eventually we got the cards recharged and hopped aboard the train scheduled to leave in 4 minutes. It left some 20 minutes later!



Being on a granite outcrop some 150m above sea-level, Sintra has long been occupied; either as a hilltop defensive settlement, or a summer retreat. First the Romans, then the Moors, then the Crusaders, and eventually the nobility all wanted part of the action. Billed as "Europe’s greatest example of the whimsical and colourful Romanticism style of architecture", the issue for us was what to see in only one day. Of the many options, we decided to narrow it down to four, and so bought a combined ticket for those venues. On arrival, Sintra was already crowded with tourists. The bus company was offering several round trips past different attractions. To see the four, we had to select 2 different buses.



We figured that being furthermost out and largely a garden estate, Monserrate Palace ought be our first stop. The bus departed crowded Sintra along the narrowest of streets and began to climb high into the hillside. The lush green moss covered vegetation revealed another reason why the site is favoured in summer. While the 'palace' was inspiring, it was the garden that engaged us. In front of the palace was a ginourmous Puhutukawa tree. We'd never seen one so large, and one side had come into flower. Just amazing! There are many fine specimen trees from the Australasia region, all doing wonderfully well. And, those from Europe were also in good health. In one garden we observed the largest and most dense quadruple poppies. Again, just stunning!



After having our fill of garden, we caught the bus back down into Sintra (and past several other palaces we opted not to visit) to peruse the Palace of Sintra. Here, according to the Portuguese authorities, was the 'star attraction'. As interesting as it is, it is more a museum of royal power than a dwelling of aesthetic interest. Unlike many monuments, this 'mansion' was cobbled together over time. Accordingly, some ceilings were just 1800mm high while others over 6 metres. Similarly, there is no standard floor level, with countless steps rising and falling along the visitation route.



We caught the (next) bus to Palacio Pena. This is THE one that grabs the Sintra headline and attracts most tourists. This Romantic Castle is just that; by any measure a fairytale castle. We supposed that Disney would have selected this for Sleeping Beauty over Neuschwanstein Castle, but probably couldn't get the rights. Sitting atop an exposed ridge, the building can be seen from afar. It was probably ever only a rendered structure daubed with lime, but today is painted in various (garish?) colours that attract much attention. Wandering through the building is just as surreal. There appears little logic to the design of spaces; rooms with purported intent appear as sets from a movie scene, not as occupants may have interacted. For example, the kitchen is four floors below the formal dining room and there appears no 'services' avenue for the food delivery. Similarly, several bedrooms adjoined each other and entry to any was via the others. Either the occupants were licentious, or.....We figured the various room design, decoration and 'orientation' is the result of tourist marketing.



We'd passed the fourth of our ticketed entry places just before hopping off the bus at Pena. We'd figured that as time was passing and there was an entry closing time at Pena we ought 'do' Pena before the last. Rather than take the bus for a whole circuit, we walked back the 700m to the entrance of the Castelo dos Mouros (or Moorish Castle). The ridge on which this fortification sits has a commanding view to the south and west. Back then, it clearly served as a strategic point of command. We read that it was initially used by the Romans. After that, those pesky Muslims came across from Libya and took control. Later, the Vikings kicked the Moors out and gained control, leaving the Knights Templar in control. Later, when the necessity for strategic hilltop forts waned, the (by now) ruins had become occupied by Jews. They were given their marching orders and the site was refurbished as a Keep for royal use. Entering the lower portion in the (very) late afternoon under a now quite cloudy sky, the ambience was moody. Fortunately the hordes (of tourists) had left so we had the opportunity to 'visualise' what life may have been like centuries ago.



We departed Sintra on the train and unwittingly took the wrong Lisbon train (it didn't go to the centre). After a couple of strange looking stations, we realised and set about to return to the station with the right train connection. That proved somewhat difficult. With the electronic card ticket, the swipe barriers at each platform have large plastic shields to stop free-riders. In part, also, because there were no staff anywhere! As we were not on a 'scheduled' station stop, our tickets were 'invalid' and wouldn't open the gates. There was no obvious place to pay extra, so we had to climb over these highish barriers. At one barrier, a lady (speaking in Portuguese) tried to stop us. Eventually we returned to our destination. After that, it was time for a beer and another delightful meal at the Mercado.



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Friday 2nd June 2017.

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There were places within Lisbon we'd yet to explore; Estrela to our near north-west and Alfama to the East of the CBD.



The attraction at Estrela were a white Basilica, a park and the National Assembly. While all fine edifices, the area seemed a little run-down and the impact of relative poverty had impacted on the upkeep of the 'sites' and the way one engages with them. Thus, the presentation of the structures were a little 'tired'.



We'd walked to Estrela, but decided to take the tram to the 'other side'. The small tram sort of 'bumbles' along, picking up and dropping off passengers at frequent intervals. The streets are so narrow that whenever a goods van stops to make a delivery, the whole street stops flowing. We concluded the tram isn't generally any faster than walking, rather, it's a means not to have to trudge up and down the hilly terrain. In Alfama, the tram came to Portas do Sol - a viewing area overlooking the Tagus River estuary. Here the road is so narrow it can only accommodate one tram track. So, trams from one direction have to wait till the trams from the other to have cleared the restriction. If that wasn't bad enough, this very narrow part of the street is also a 2 way road; but only one car wide!. So, imagine the 'clog' as passionate Mediterranean drivers all inch their way to get through, gesticulating and spruiking at anything and anyone that may respond so they can progress. The tram took 15 minutes to travel some 150 metres!



The Alfama area is a bit like the Rocks in Sydney (but not so gentrified). High on the hill is a refurbished castle ruins (now a tourist attraction) and some steep terrain to get down to the wharves. In between is a labyrinth of streets and alleys (many with staircases). Our target destination was the Igreja da Sao Vincente de Fora; St Vincent's Church of the Outer (Fora means outside the original city wall). The church itself was nothing special. Rather, it was the monastery (museum) attached that was our target. This museum held a very large and fascinating artefact and descriptive longitudinal display of the interaction between the church and successive rulers (and the later, state). Unbeknown to us before entering, we discovered we could go up to the roof of the church and look out over much of Lisbon. With such a great view, it seems Lonely Planet had overlooked it. We thus had the view to ourselves.



We took our leave and tottered downhill towards the Portas do Sol. Given the crowds wanting selfies on the viewing platform, this was clearly a Lonely Planet recommendation! In dock at the time was the Oriana; though built in 1995, the name is of a ship (of the same company) that used to transport migrants to Australia in the 1950's and 60's and took young Australian explorers to England. Back in the 1960's, Bruce had placed a deposit for a berth on the Oriana for a passage to England. (Mother) Fate stepped in and it never eventuated!



Moving on, we avoided the (Lonely Planet endorsed) castle ruins because we'd really enjoyed the Moorish castle experience (almost) on our own the previous day. Instead we continued soaking in the Alfama streetscape.



Almost all Lisbon buildings are either painted in light / bright colours or tiled. Tiles are 'big' in Lisbon. Institutional buildings (such as banks, churches and railways) commission artists to make friezes of tiles - typically with a story to tell - for a foyer, platform, room, etc. In Alfama, the tilework was less overt, but nonetheless present. The owners of many buildings had commissioned an artist to tell a story for the outside. While we admired the artwork, we didn't really know the meaning. The idea that a building exterior had a tilework 'story' was new to us.



Digesting the architecture and the juxtaposing of building, streetscape and (people's) ambition, we continued on admiring what was pleasing to the eye (and the contrast). In the warm afternoon sun, the waft of Linden tree perfume made for delight. Eventually finding ourselves near Rossio, we headed in for a last craft beer - we were to pick up a hire car on the morrow and leave Lisbon.

Reflections

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We really didn't know what to expect of Lisbon. Our neighbour (at Tweed) summed it up when he said "I've never met anyone from Portugal". The point being that we hear glowing travel reports from elsewhere in Europe, but Portugal (and Lisbon) seems way off the radar.



Lisbon is not a large city. And, being laid out across a (really) hilly terrain makes pedestrian (aka tourist) access challenging. However, it is this terrain that both 'makes' Lisbon and offers a quite different alternative to the 'pedestrian and bicycle friendly' cities of Europe. When we talk of Lisbon, we are not referring to the seemingly endless suburbia of high-rise apartments that radiate out from the central core. rather, it is the 'old' Lisbon or inner part that is the central core. Each of the 'valleys' seemed to be flavoured differently. Our time was too short to put a 'finger' on it, but when we went to one flatish area in a sort of valley between hills, there was an ambience that was quite different to the next flatish area. If we were in London, we could describe the buildings (and the age) the socio-economic aspect, the type of resident. Here in Lisbon, the Meditteranean tradition of a closed external ediface but an engaging courtyard meant that little was on public display. Thus, what we saw reflected the lifestyle of the inner (not the outer, as is observable in Australia). So, some areas appeared to us somewhat similar to another. But, one had shops selling artisan goods, while another offered the mundane retail found everywhere. Why? We don't know.



We also likes that the Portuguese (in Lisbon) hadn't adopted the Spanish or Italian preference for a long siesta. Yes, some shops were closed for a long lunch (12:30 - 2), not the 12:30 - 5 as over the border. This (we felt) kept the city alive in the middle of the day. We also likes that most cafes and eateries were not large flash affairs, rather, little 'holes in the wall' operations. That said, we were 'wowed' by Mercado de Ribieria and the way fine dining was de-elitist (if is that the word, if not, it describes the reality).



And, we loved the little bumbling trams!



Till next episode.

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